you just need to tighten the tensioner pulley. use c clip pliers, needle nose pliers, or even a small long flat head screwdriver. it doesnt need much force. youll know when its tight enough not to skip gears. and even if your still unsure, you can do the gap test of the auto tensioner distance...
I upgraded from manual boost controller to electronic boost controller w linkv3. I had very shaky boost before. Now I am having some particularly odd issues with my boost going up and down, despite the settings I enter in my WGS menu. I even tried 95 in the base duty cycle (wtf5 log). Any ideas...
Looks like your ready, I think you need 14mm for the turbo bolts, but you should have that in your set. I usually use a jack under the downpipe to support the weight of the turbo... Alligning the bolts can be a pain. Remember to get them all started and threaded before you tighten anything down...
Depending on the condition of the PCV valve, I have seen/heard valve cover gaskets fail, on cold engines with 25psi. Both had sealed catch cans. Either way, I hope you track down your leaks. Remember to open and close your throttle body while doing the BLT to see if its your throttle body shaft...
Check master cylinder for leaks (around the brake pedal/clutch pedal)
Check slave cylinder for leaks (by bottom of radiator)If no leaks, rebleed the system. Air loves to get trapped in the maze of tubing for the slave.If no luck. Maybe you didnt hook up the pivot arm in the bellhousing...
Connect your boost leak tester to the Intake mouth of the turbocharger. If its a 16g I beleive thats 2.5" Add 20psi of air, and it should hold it, with 1-2psi of leaking every 10+ seconds... Lets just say it should leak very very slowly through the crankcase. It shouldnt leak much through the...
If its +% then its adding fuel, so you should add 1 or 2 units to that cell of the SD table... You should use the ecmlink.com forums. But I can help you out. Ill give everybody a run-down for fun.First setup your log to get whatever you like to stare at, plus make sure you have rpm...
What exactly did you plug with your thumb? If you have a hole in your valve cover that you can plug with your finger, I would say that is your problem...Also, remember there should be no leaks at all. Double check your spark plug gaps, to be at .32 for stock boost, and 20+psi start at .27 and...
:hmm: So I understand that all DSMs coilpack firing orders are 4123, without a doubt. Its even stamped on it. And if you have a 2g and you used DSMLink to invert your Cam Angle Sensor, then you use 3214. (Inverse of stock)... My question is, if you read this thread, more than once, people...
He may be suggesting having the ecu flashed. I personally would recomment a way to tune, like AFC... Preferably dsmlink though. So you can change your boost, or setup, and be able to compensate.. Also as for your injectors, i would say go as big as you can afford, and you can always tune around...
Moy is an idiot. But either way sounds like boost solenoid. Id like to say that thanks to all the devoted dsmers, any kind of dsm site is going to thrive. Especially a localizedforum like chitowndsms etc... soon i bet there will be a NICE site for every major metropolitan area. But still...
My master cylinder i just bought has a bleed valve on the side (phillips) and my stock doesnt. Whats the proper procedure to bleed this master cylibder with the bleed valve on the side? (92 tsi awd)
So I have a very low vacuum about 1 pound at idle out when I'm cruising it's about 16 pounds-10... My compression test is perfect I just had a brand new head and head gasket installed in my car. Yes I did a boost leak tester and I have absolutely no leaks 2.5 inch piping and the front mount...
Ok everybody must bow to the all mighty moy, because I have been too busy to respond lately about the solenoid. (Which can be googled in seconds). I appologize for a delayed responce but you challenge my expertise? Ok mr 88 supra :-/
Maybe iac went bad. Or fuel pump sucked up poop and is dead. Change fuel filter now. Go walbro if u havent.. and maybe some seals died in your throttle body. Rebuild it. Do your throttle body shaft seals and blok off dumb stuff while your at it... try holding your gas down slightly while tryin...
Yes. Oh my jeez, yes. Check your brake pedal at rested position in relation to your clutch pedals height. Compare the two. If theu clutch pedal appears ANY lower than the brake pedal while they are in rested position, then your bushings are worn and YOU NEED THIS KIT. If you either have a better...
Definitely do a blt (boost leak test) immediately. And the stuttering Could also be a culprit of bad spark plugs, or bad wires, or bad incorrect spark gap. Maybe your running rich?
Wow ive never heard of that! But I like stock flywheels anyway. I would torque them down as much as possible personally, like 70 ft/lbs or whatever I can do with just a ratchet, no breaker bar or torque wrench, and i would use the super lock tite (200ft/lbs) to be sure. Just what I would do if...
Check all fuses. Pull em one by one, under the hood fuses as well! Then maybe unbolt your diag port and CHECK the rear pins... They have a tendency to come loose. Then start chasing wires if all else fails. But if you do the following, you should find it eventually. Try not to get too frustrated.
My Mahle pistons have a very long number stamped on it, my hks pistons had something on em too. usually stamped underneath as well... You sure you dont have stock pistons?
I doubt its an axle. If you accelerate, and it seems as if your engaging late (rpms rise, but delayed acceleration) then your clutch is slipping... Just like mine...
Keep checking fuses... Like the larger amperage ones under the hood... And post what DOES work electrical wise to get a better diagnosis and assistance. Good luck friend!
What are you using to tune? Also you may as well sell em on ebay and get big injectors. Also why not just run speed density? You'll be a much happier camper! I promise. Maybe try opening the BISS screw to add some air to that mix? Hope this helps.