Good point. That said, I have run this engine for a total of about five minutes.I checked the valve guides visually. I did not measure them (if that's even possible - I'm not an engine guru).Holy crap. That looks EXACTLY like my head and exhaust manifold. I checked the PCV valve before...

I used Felpro valve stem seals. They came in my head gasket kit that I bought from Advance Auto. Was that a bad idea?I just can't believe I installed them incorrectly. Seems rather straightforward. Just push them on firmly with a socket.

I did a leakdown test on the previous head as stated in the OP but not on this newer one.Odd that it has been recommended here not to do it at TDC. Everywhere I've read specifically states that this is the way it should be done, and I have done multiple leakdown tests this way.

I'm afraid you might be right. Seems like I took a chance on this and it ended up not working out, so now I have to do it the RIGHT way. :p

I'm using a brand new stock oil drain. The ports in the head are wet. I can literally see oil dripping down the valves on all but the port closest to the head.I thought maybe the valve stem seals were installed wrong, but how could you possibly do that? I pressed them down on the guides with...

The turbo is brand new. No side-to-side play.When I say there was oil, I mean a LOT of oil. I can take pictures if it would help.I will add that I have a -4 AN oil line with an inline restrictor feeding the turbo from the head, but just bought a factory feed to make sure it isn't still...

So I've been trying to get this project car I bought a little more than a year ago drivable but when I was ready to finally start driving it I saw that oil was dripping out of my turbo. Knowing that the turbo was new, I suspected there might be a problem with the engine, even though it too (both...

The same, but I post over at 3sgto exclusively now (ever since the whole drama with autoforums.com buying the site ruined everything about 3si).

Has anyone run the Koni rear 2Gs in a 1G with Eibach lowering springs? Or is it pretty much a given that you need to go with adjustable springs to use the Konis in the rear? My car came with Eibachs so that's why I'm asking.

Thanks for the help! I'll look into solid tensioners later if I decide to make this car more race-oriented down the road.I was able to get the timing belt on properly. Thanks guys!

Thanks! I knew STM sold tensioners but I must have overlooked the bolts they sell. Given the shady history of this car I might just bite the bullet and get a new tensioner even though I was told this one is relatively new.

Thanks guys. I thought there might have been something wrong with the timing of the cams since there's a line on the cam keeper tool that seems to indicate where the timing marks should be. Didn't realize you could put the tool upside down! I'll fix that.Also, I did notice the slack in the...

I'm having a problem installing the timing belt on my 1G with a balance shaft delete. I have all of the timing belt install tools from Jay Racing to help me out, so I align the cam marks (with the dowel pins pointing up) and insert the cam keeper tool. Then I align the crank gear to TDC and...

Fitment aside, Aby is a good person to deal with. We've been trading emails back and forth for the past couple of days on the issue, passing out measurements to each other and such. I measured my seals to be 18/32" and the bore I was trying to fit them in as 17/32" (I did not have my caliper...

I had to replace my old cylinder head with one from the junkyard. This head was in great shape and I have replaced the valve stem seals and just torqued it down on my car, but the cams and rocker arms are not on so everything is easily accessible. I never took the lifters out, so does this mean...

This was exactly my thought in retrospect. Chamfer the inner edge inward slightly and I bet it would have been much easier.

It's a '91 throttle body, so not a '90 which I know it will not fit. I had them as straight as possible and did not try blindly forcing them in. I simply used a 10mm socket on an extention and lightly tapped with my rubber mallet. When I could tell it wasn't working, I tried multiple times to...

I ordered the Mil.Spec seals from Aby at the Evo forums. I'm not sure how others are able to get these to fit, but I completely ruined a set of these seals trying to put them on my 1G turbo throttle body. The metal ring protrudes out too far making it impossible for them to properly fit. I used...

To elaborate on this, do a search for wire tucks to see what people are doing to clean up their harnesses. Many of them are running ECMLink and just got rid of the things they don't use. There's plenty of threads here outlining the proper way to do it.

If you have a 16G and plan to stay with it there's no need for you to upgrade your MAF. That being said, any money spent on an intake pipe would be money better spent elsewhere for you. You won't see the kind of gains with an intake pipe upgrade that you would with, say, an upper intercooler...

Sure did. Sounds crazy, huh? I would not have done this had this car not been my budget project car, but the results far exceeded my expectations!

Definitely a booster issue. Check the easy things first - the line coming from the plenum to the booster.

You're looking in the right place. It's either the IAC, ECU, temp sensor, or some combination of the three. Check the temp sensor first as it's the easiest to test. Then check your IAC. There are many threads here describing how to test the IAC with an ohmmeter. If both of those turn out okay...

It's all about prep. If you do the proper prep the rest is cake.My paint job cost me $16. That was for two cans of Valspar Satin Black water-based paint. I think it looks fantastic for the price. I'm curious to see how well it holds up to the elements once I get the car out of the garage...

I had a crappy eBay 16G turbo thrown in with the Talon I bought last year because the car was in pieces and he didn't have the stock 14b. I personally do not trust it but I'm just going to run it until it blows. Since you have a choice, I would run anything but your eBay turbo. Feel free to give...

I highly suggest getting ECMLink FIRST. Also, do as stated above and have the guys at ECMLink do it. Their service is top notch.For reference, I'm aiming for a little under 300 whp and my mods will be as follows: Small 16G 3000GT VR-4 fuel pump Denso 720cc injectors ECMLink v3 VRSF FMIC...

I'd bolt it to the firewall. Don't ghetto-rig it with zip ties.

The air filter mounts over the honeycomb section. The plug for the MAS is on the other side (closest to the engine).

Link is your best option.

Looks like you did a clean job.

DSMLink is your best bet. Even if you don't have an EPROM ECU you can have it converted by ECMTuning.

The likely culprit is the front mount intercooler. It needs to be properly ducted to direct flow through the radiator.

There's a cutout on the cam gear for the dowel pin on the cam that ensures the cam can only be installed one way (the right way).This page is a better reference for you:DOHC DSM camshaft & lifter install

Advance Auto sells a non-cruise control cable as well if you can't find one in a local junkyard.

Welcome!I agree with the above. Try to find a stock DSM and go from there. These things are a lot easier to deal with when stock. A lot of people buy modded DSMs that were done improperly and so much is wrong with them that the buyer eventually gives up out of frustration. Do yourself a favor...

I had to buy one of these when I first bought my DD Explorer from my parents about a year ago. They had their oil changed at the local Wal-Mart and the dipstick mechanic overtightened the filter so much I couldn't get it off by hand. A strap wrench wouldn't get it off either! Finally got one of...

This is a great suggestion. I'll have to remember this method for future reference.

I've done a bit of research on this and it seems the Felpro composite gasket is good for 30+ psi of boost. iugrad's link seems to confirm this. I went ahead and bought a composite gasket for my head when I put it on. Composite gaskets are good if you haven't had your head resurfaced as it tends...

Ha, I know the feeling! Just take your time and do it right and you'll be happy.

You can, but you'll want to fab a heatsink for the wideband so it isn't damaged by the high temps at the exhaust housing. I believe the LC-1 manual shows a cheap way of doing this with a copper plate you can get from Lowes.

This seems to be a constant debate and I think both points are valid. I'm eventually going to be getting the Innovate wideband and have been thinking of the best installation location. I can't imagine the delay being significant when placing the sensor in the downpipe as opposed to the stock O2...

I will say the EuroExport valve spring compressor is worth every penny. I highly suggest investing in it. Makes component removal SO easy.

Welcome. Looks like you got a great deal. Good luck!

If that's really the problem and you can deal with the cold idle issues, more power to you. Unfortunately, many people misdiagnose FIAV issues, throw on some cheap block-off plate, and their problems persist. So now they have the same idle issue AND they have to babysit their car during cold...

I didn't say they wouldn't work. They just might. But why risk it? If there's any significant amount of surface damage on those pistons they are junk. You can't just "sand them down" and hope for the best. We're talking about parts with very tight tolerances here.Your experience might have...

I would say it's not worth the hassle even if you DO have idle issues. It's a bandaid fix at best. Find the real problem, don't mask it.

Definitely do not reuse these pistons. It's a shame this happened to you this early, but buy yourself some piece of mind and rebuild the engine the right way.I'm going through a related situation myself. I tore down the head on the Talon I acquired as a project and found one of the camshaft...

There's really no good reason to delete the FIAV. You'll have to babysit the car for a couple of minutes while it warms up which I think is less than optimal. It won't decrease your intake temperatures by deleting it. TBH an FIAV delete is a waste of time.

Plus it is pretty easy to tell when you've cracked a valve guide.What is the recommended source for a new 4G63 head? Is remanned typically suggested around here?

Agreed. I had two used ISCs on hand to replace the bad one that came on my Talon when I bought it. Both of my ISCs AND the one already on the Talon passed the ohm test but ALL THREE were bad. I ended up getting a new one from Advance Auto.