i would have probably bought a rebuilt one but i was in need of having the car running by Sunday for an import shootout , so i had to learn quick haha, but i got it all together yesterday and installed it last night and it started right up and runs good just have some stupid little issues left...
actually i think ive got it i1-6 is the intake e1-6 is the exhaust ? if this is correct i had them wrong okay and they are off of this head i just bought it and disassembled the whole block and now i need the head for another car.would the rollers need to be in any certain order?
thank you, that would probably be my issue, i looked all over this forum trying to see if they had an order then compared them and they all looked the same. would you happen to know how to tell of is a Haynes Manuel would tell you because i have looked in my Manuel even.
im rebuilding my head and wondering if when i install the cams should i be able to turn them over by hang they are very tight and i have not even torqued them down
Okay thank you for the info I'll deffinitly check it for a leak down tomorrow and read up on it more , I'll let you know what I find out. And I'm deffinitly not going to put used parts on with a new head I have done plenty of rempairs before just never had a car Jump time because I usually...
okay i wasn't sure of how expensive they are but that is not to much how would you tell if the valves are bad or not from it though, i have read up on it some but still not to sure, and i was planning on pulling the head but i was just trying to see if i could find out if i need a whole block or...
i mean that the belt jumped 10 teeth at the crank supposedly when the car died on my friend he wasn't beating on it but i know that many teeth it shouldn't have a chance, but when i would put the crank in time the cam marks would be up and down from each other rather then lined up 10 teeth, id...
the thing that's been bothering me is it seems to run okay when all i did was put it into time, i thought being over 10 teeth off the head would have to have bent valves like the compression is was building in the low cylinders instantly went away and did not hold the good cylinders held there...
so i know a decent amount about cars and the new dsm i bought did not run when i first got it i rewired all the bare wires and then checked the timing, it was 10 teeth off so id go ahead and say the valves are bent but i set it in time and it will start. so i decided to compression test it and...
i don't think its ever been wrecked and the rear was out a little but we have gotten it pretty much into spec. i think the rear wasn't bad because it had the lowing kit on to but its barely lowered at all but the front is slammed like an inch off the ground. i have no idea why the back isn't...
okay thanks ill look into these still open to suggestions of what would be the best one for me, also i have checked all my suspension, almost everything is brand new what was not i replaced after i bought it if it was needed.
so my gst i have is lowered and i bought it this way. the front camber and caster are way out of spec, im just wondering what i can do or what camber kit i could buy to fix this.camber caster
left -2.75 +3
right -3.25 +4.25
I tore my tranny off today and have the parts in that need replaced my clutch set up barely had any miles on when my clip for the throw out bearing snapped. I was wondering how to tell if it is possible how much life my clutch disk has left.
I'm sure mines oil I will be removing the turbo after inspection of It tomorrow to check exhaust outlets into The manifold if I dont find another reason like play in
The turbo. I'm just curious could it just instantly go bad or what could, because last turbo that went bad on me only Really ate...
i got a new eclipse a while ago, fixed a few little problems and everything was fine. Just today out of no where on my way to work being very gentle on the car it started smoking really bad and burning oil out of no where, i have taken it just last week over 2 hour drive steady and back with no...
My clutch fork moves side to side about an inch freely, not the way it moves when pushed by the slave, is this a problem. My clucth hasent been disengaging, sometimes it works perfect Other times it won't work at all, I'm just tired of changing parts and nothings fixing it.
I can see it with my eyes, i was trying to get a picture but I need a defferent camera, my flash wasnt working right. But or deffinitly has a spring on I could pull it with a magnet and it sprung back. the spring wasn't strong but the magnet couldn't get it close enough to rip it out if I wanted...
Yeah it's not any clutch springs it's very tiny. I'm
Not even sure it's that clip I just looked in the book and it was the only thing that even resembled what I saw in that area.
I can try a few things I can tell you it's not a shim issue I've put a good bit of miles on this set up. The only thing that I changed was I adjusted the clutch under the dash, since the last time that It was disengaging, I only adjusted it because it was just dragging. I can check for maybe a...
Now I had my car yesterday going into return gear and working fine drove it around the block just the clutch dragged at 4000 rpms fully adjusted. Then today I could not get it to go into any gear when running. Looked into the shift fork boot and found a little clip dangling from a little spring...
My clucth will not desenguage and i can not get my car into any gear when it os on. So I was Looking in through the release fork boot for a problem and saw a little clip looking thing with a little spring on it hanging in my clutch assembly. I then looked in my repair Manuel and saw what i think...
I have bled it about every way possible, I even bought a pressure bleeder, but what cap on the master cylinder can I crack open, I'm going to take another look at everything tomorrow.
I looked and could not see anything that looked damaged, Also my clutch was working amazing untill I lost all pressure to my pedal. But I drove it home just Fine just had to pump The pedal, so wouldn't you beleive this is nothing but hydraulics issue ?
So this past week I have been messing with my clutch hydraulics and have been getting no where. I replaced master cylinder and the slave after loosing all of my pressure out of no where one day. I have bled this system for 3 days now, I have tried many Different tactics, I believe all the air is...
I considered the fact that it could be a spring that popped, 3 weeks ago I was almost sure something like that had happened, I had the same issues as I do now so I readjusted the system and was on my way. But then just this week I was very gently driving to work when I went to clutch to take it...
I'll watch it again, but I adjusted it on
The inside untill the slave could not be pushed in by hand, then I backed it off untill I could push it in freelyWhat do you mean by backing it off, I adjusted it in
Sorry about that I deffinitly did not re-read any of that. I can talk correctly just had my hands covered in brake fluid and my iPhone changed some things. Well anyways I bled my hydraulic system and I ended up having more presure then ever on my pedal, I then re-adjusted the mastercylinder...
So last week my car started to be hard to get into first gear so I adjusted the clutch master under the dash just like jacks says to do worked great till yesterday when out of no where I lose all pressure and had to pump my pedal to get it in gear I have act 2600 with fedinza flywheel on a fwd...
i originally thought it was but my new timing belt has not a drop on but the case behind it is covered i figure it had to be coming somewhere between the tensioner and the crank the head and up is oil free, my seals all looked good and i have another new set in case but i want to pinpoint the...
i might have to try that i de-greased it 2 times this time i have left the timing cover off to see but last time i ran it before i put it together holding steady 3000 rpms it never leaked so i don't know that it will work unless i boost the car
i have the gaskets and seals going to replace today didn't before since they couldn't get them in for a week, but can the oil pump leak or does it have to be a seal i just don't want to spend 200 unless i have to and don't want to have to take it apart again
i did a balance shaft delete on my 98 gsx last week after one spun a bearing also lost a quart of oil, which while driving and new gaskets still is spraying oil could the balance shaft jumping around ruined my oil pump and make it so it leaks? - looks to be coming from around oil pump not positive
i am not throwing any codes and i checked my rod bearings while it was apart the where all tight and looked good would a rod bearing even make my car idle like crap? it has no noise at all not even lifter tickill recheck the timing again today but i am 99% sure it is right on i checked it...
last Sunday coming home from Ohio my car started knocking and as i drove home when i stopped it kept stalling and idling weird, so i tore it apart found my balance shaft belt broke to tore the front case off and oil pan found a bearing from rear balance shaft so i deleted it and left the belt...
I have a boost controller not insalled but what do I need to remove to raise the boost the (electronic controler?) if so what's it look likeAlso my t-25 is brand new only 2000 miles on it so I think it would hold up for a while and I'd turn it down off of 14 most of the time
my gsx has intake and intercooler hard piping and exhaust i was wondering how i could turn my boost up on my stock t-25 its only at 10psi ive seen people running 15 safely and id like to run 14
what i am having trouble with is i took all the bolts out and unplugged it but the housing with the 2 12mm is unbolted and stuck on there and i didn't want to pry to hard and break anything the o ring on that housing against the valve cover is leaking and i just don't know why it won't pop off...