Yes, I was given those bars and bolts. Without those installed the housing should be free to spin right?

Recently purchased this HTA 86 used, was wondering how can I remove and install the turbine housing correctly? Is there any alignment marks or anything I need to be aware of? The guy I got it from took off the turbine housing to inspect the turbine wheel, but just installed it with a few bolts...

Guess we can finally mark this as solved. Plucked the poly insert out to find the mount in the back to be torn to hell. What made me pluck them out was that I could wiggle the mount side to side really easily. Which would translate to the vibration cause the mount wasn't doing its job. Pissed...

No sir that wasn't a Crack but I examined other areas of the clutch and flywheel and didn't swe any cracks starting to form. Other than the small ones that I already mentioned in the flywheel

Back from the dead finally had some time to drop the transmission to see what was going on and this is what I found. From my perspective the clutch looks fine, but I'm thinking part if not all of my problems resulted from a warped flywheel (can anyone confirm this) I found small fractures...

If you use that I would recommend putting a bead of rtv around it just be sure there are no leaks.

At least he's using the search tool lol. May also help some others out with what they want to run this season.

Same here, but I ran across a guy that had a review on this clutch on this forum that said he used this TOB with no issues. I've been trying to find it.Here's the link to the thread on dsmtalk that has an in-depth review of the exact clutch I have...

Although I have done pretty good research on this clutch; I just wanted clarification and reassurance on a few things about this clutch.first and foremost the throwout bearing, on one review I've heard that the throwout bearing is good to use. based on the pictures provided would you run it or...

Running about the same setup as me but I'm fwd. I really hope this isn't the norm with these turbos and you figure out what's holding it back.

What are your goals for this?

I would say it's hard to believe as well a log or video proof would validate it but I have no reason not to take his word for it.

Me and another guy (dsmer) was discussing this very same fact. While you may make more peak power than me. I'm making my peak power or close to it for a much wider rpm range than you are, making my car the faster more capable one. That's what people come to love with the 16g-20g combinations and...

Will you want more than 450 later on? Do you want the simplicity of a bolt-on setup? How much money do you want spend? Are all factors in this decision. If you feel as if you'll be satisfied with the 450 or maybe a little more want simplicity, least cost I'd go with the 20g Justin suggested. If...

subscribed, I'm looking to get a clutch myself; want to make sure I'm getting the best for my money and also best for street driving while holding around 400tq.

I also run mine with the single spring.

So I took a much needed break of looking at my dsm. But today I noticed that there's a bolt missing in the bottom of the transmission

Removing the case, is this possible without removing the transmission or anything significant?It does it slightly in first, but like I said earlier when I completely let off the clutch the problem stops. But it's difficult to back up slowly without the engine wanting to rock itself out of the...

Thanks man I appreciate it. Southbend it is then. You wouldn't recommend driving it at all while it's like this would you?

If one of them did what is a tell tell sign of that happening?If one of them did what is a tell tell sign of that happening?

It's a stock clutch with about 20k miles. And I'll do that

So I found out that one of the roll mounts was loose, tightened it and it still does the same thing to about the same degree. The engine is still shaking.Still only two replies? Can I get some help on this please

I'll check those out. What would I need to do to gain access to those bolts? And I'll also try the roll test but it doesn't do it whole accelerating. But I do here a whirring noise on the passenger side it's hard to hear though but wasn't their before all of this started.

Just recently I'm having a bad vibration when I put the car in reverse and start to let out of the clutch. It's really bad the motor shakes as well while it's in reverse. I checked one of the motor mounts tightened them up as much as I could and still have the same problem. I have prothane...

That has to be a scary ride in a gst lol. Great numbers man you just kept improving!

Alright I'll do both and I'll check back on here

I recently did rewired my fuel pump with the kit from stm and followed the or instructions. But my fuel pump is still pulsing when I turn on the signal. I know that the rewire doesn't completely bypass the stock wiring it's just to give a constant 12 volt source to the pump but that's obviously...

I'm pretty much pointing at the pump for this. It's missing a silver cap looking piece at the top of the neck which helps the plastic cap from falling and fitting snug. I also bought the rewire kit from stm and did it properly the wire no longer gets hot but the pump is still seeming to be faulty

I don't quite understand the last part of that post?And as far as I know it is. The previous owner did it. It was working with the 255 for about a month or two before the wire shorted and I had to replace it. And that was red hot wire that comes off of the fuel pump There is also a hissing...

I have my car running again had a few issues with my fuel pump not turning on and making noises other than the usual whine from a walbro 255. Now the problem is that the blue and black wire leading into the fuel pump assembly pigtail is getting hot. Along with the pump still making some noises...

I have a tdo5 20g myself spool is great makes pretty good power. I'm trying to get in 12's with it. You have so many different options with a 20g as well. Talk to Justin (freelancer) he can build you a 20g that will perform very close to the holset. And like was said before if you grow out of...

Well now I have the car running but the fuel pump makes a weird noise first time it made that noise it was the o ring not bring seated correctly. Also when I hit the gas it sounds like the car wants to stall out.

Resolve this. I just fixed it. After that wire shorted out I guess during the midst of that it blew the fuse I replaced and the pump turned on!!

I am at least getting power to that relay which is part of the rewire

How could I even have flow if the pump doesn't turn on?

Alright first I've searched about this for nearly a month. Thought I fixed this problem 2 times but to no avail I still have it. The problem is I have no fuel but I do have spark. I have tested the fuel pump (walbro 255) and it comes on. First thought was that it was the relays on the passenger...

That looks great man!

Let's not get off topic but I never did say that it wasn't a dsm. I just was curious as to why they have humps when they don't need it but my curiosity was answered.

Exactly when did it happen? If it happened right after a turbo install the turbo may have hit against the water pipe damaging the o-ring inside. That is what happened when I installed my 20g.

What gets me is why 420a's have humps in their hood.

No, but I need some before I go to try to get it aligned. I am not sure on the sleeve adjustment I'm pretty positive it's down some though

I have tokico blues on eibach ground control sleeves with 18x9.5 wheels. Here's a picture of how the car sits.rearfrontoverall viewThe ride isn't to bad, I came from I believe were blown kyb agx's on some no name coilover sleeves and some lowering springs in the back. I had 17x7.5 on...

That's crazy, it was in when I bought the car I just replaced it with a 255

no one knows?

stock injectors?

I got mine from jnz. are you talking about the actual rubber stripping or the metal piece?

Oh alright. I'll look around some moreaccording to RRE 195130 means it could be a 1g, 2g, evo, or a old school 190 fuel pump. But neither of the last 4 numbers match up

I've did a lot of searching to find this fuel pump google searching, searching throughout this website, went on RRE and tried to do a cross-reference on the denso website. But I still could not find a match for this fuel pump. The number on the side is A101110. If you can't read it from the...

This thread makes me want to send my turbo lab 20g to Justin for inspection. That wastegate plug is horrible if they have that detail on what the eyes can see imagine how things could be in the inner workings of the turbo.