Didn't have metal in the pan or filter. I didn't put but maybe 5-10 miles on it with the pressure that low so it looks like I dodged a bullet. Got it tuned yesterday and it did fantastic. Averaged 8-10psi at idle, 45psi at cruise, and 85psi on WOT pulls. I need to do a tad bit of porting on the...
Found my issue. When I did the BSE I did not get the rear bearing lined up properly. I had to use a magnet to hold it in place and my guess is the oil hole was still exposed. I flipped the rear bearing and put everything back together and now have sufficient oil pressure. 80 on cold start, 22psi...
I know I will probably catch hell for this, but I am having a low oil pressure issue on my new build and cant seem to figure out why. I have been through two gauges. One mechanical gauge and one auto meter digital gauge with remote mount sending unit. Both read anywhere form 0psi-5psi at...
Double check and make sure you didnt knock a ground loose when you removed it. I did the same thing when I changed one of my gauges to a different location.
A little update for how far Ive gotten. I have the dash lights working now(fuses were in the wrong place). Interior lights are now working(other than bad door switches). My wipers now work(no idea what made them work).I am still having issues with the following:Zero power to the radio. The...
Take it to a reputable machine shop and have them polish the crankshaft. IF you can still feel the cuts afterwards it will need to be turned. I had some light scuffs and cuts in mine and it polished out in about 15min at the machine shop.
Will do and thank you. Ive been digging through my chiltons manual for hours trying to trace wires. Part of the problem with the radio is the install by the previous owner, they just twisted and taped the wires together.....I had to go back and resolder everything.
I did some more work last night and found a few loose grounds, along with a random power wire that was not connected. I peeled the looms back to check for bedding and did not find any.So far I have whittled it down to the following:
No power to the radio
No dash lights
Passenger window does...
I have searched for a few weeks now and cannot find a for sure answer to my issue. My car has sat in the garage for almost 3 years being built. I recently installed 3 gauges but am having multiple electrical issues. All of these items worked prior to parking the car.I have no wipers.
I have...
Let me dig up the pics. I have done it before. Ill edit this post shortly.The four spots marked with grey spray paint are the locations to drill the holes.And wala!
I found the reasoning to my own problem.When pressing the old oem bushing out, I pressed it out in the direction of the tapered holes on the control arm. This caused the larger end of the bushing to travel through both holes in the control arm, thus opening the last hole to a larger diameter...
Just an FYI on any of you wanting the rear brake hardware kit:The oreilly kit does not work. I can verify that myself. It is actually a universal changeover kit for older trucks that lists for any vehicle.NAPA AUTO PARTS DOES however carry the exact replacement kit for our carsShown...
I am doing a full rebuild of my suspension and have come down to the rear lower control arms(not the toe arms). I have the full Energy Suspension kit and have installed all of them, but the control arms dont work...Both control arms have the "taper" outside of the metal sleeve. Both of the...
Few more things taken care of lately with the spare time I have to work on it.Solid subframe bushings installed and got the subframe painted and cleared.
Finally making progress. Rear subframe is about ready to be thrown in after I get the new solid mount bushings installed. Then a few coats of enamel and clear coat and off to the rear brakes. In the home stretch at last!
I used a dremel and cut just the castle portion of the nut off(thus leaving a technical hex nut) and was able to get it off that way.FYI Though, if you do get the nut off(without cutting the axle) more than likely the splines are going to be severely seized. I used tons of heat, 2 cans of...
K&N 4" filter, EVO 8 MAF, 3"-4" Adapter hose(Expsi), FP Cast intake. Holset hx35.I recently switched over to a recirculated setup, but still the same concept.
Love it. Ill be peeking in on the build to see progress! I love road race builds!As said by others, thank you so much for your service, it is appreciated beyond words.
Finally getting to be able to make progress!Got the rear subframe pulled and working on trying to save the rear hubs :/ Not sure how to get those axles out since the nuts are welded on.Few hours later:Under body was surprisingly clean, minor rust on the seam sealer. Gonna sandblast...
Love the progress, sucks about the balljoint going bad. Im not sure if anyone mentioned it, but if I remember correctly those SS turbo to manifold bolts are a no-no and tend to seize/snap. But sweet looking parts! So shiny XD
Went through my parts and found my original air bag! schaweet!!!
Just needs some armor all or a good scrub. Little dusty XDAnd finally got a set of wheels....SHOGUNS!
Gotta have one of them repaired with a bit of curb rash. Gonna look brand new by the time they see the car!
Been a long winter and havent gotten to work on the talon at all, but have gotten alot of parts gathered up.Finally Found a mint 2g steering wheel!hx35 .55 housing, PR atmospheric o2 housing, FP intake with evo 8MAF and K&N FilterAnd a FP manifold to go with it all of course...
I can port the o2 housing easily, that is actually what I suspect to be wrong. I just hate to with it being brand new.Edit:
Because of where the overlap is, i may not be able to port the gasket. I may just have to send it back.