The part in your pic that has broken is called buy one seller on Ebay as "95 - 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Convertible Top Right Rear Frame Extension Arm" It is bolted in place by 2 torx bit type fasteners at either end. So to answer your question. Yes it is very replaceable. They come up for...

The 4g64 crank and rods can be used, but the pistons can not unless they are have offset wrist pins. When increasing crank throw, you run into the issue of the piston hitting the cylinder head. That is why a piston with a relocated wrist pin is needed. All major piston manufactures make a...

After final install. I found that the factory igniter box is indeed still required.

After final install. I found that the factory igniter box is indeed still required.

I am installing a Msd Dis-2 with a COP setup. Do I stiill need to Keep the transistor pack in the system as well? Since I'm not using the stock coil pack, can I just leave it out. Or does it control other functions? :banghead:

Has anybody done this install? I know somebody has.

I am installing a Msd Dis-2 with a COP setup. Do I stiill need to Keep the transistor pack in the system as well? Since I'm not using the stock coil pack, can I just leave it out. Or does it control other functions?

I get it now:ohdamn: You are a machinest. arent you? That explaines the direct comment approach. I apolagize if I came across wrong. I'm a large equiptment diesel mechanic by trade and have been doing it for over 13 years. I know nothing of machine work, but I do know its under rated and at...

Am missing something with this conversation????? I actually used to work for Grizzly Industrial Tool in Springfield, Mo. The G9902 is more than capable to cut Flat surfaces on an engine block or cylinder head with the proper mounting jig. But I do not beleive that the process could take only 1...

So the machine marks? But I'm pretty sure they were both machined on a verticle milling machine. Brand name was Grizzly, model number G9902 to be more specific. But I think I can Get some pretty good pics if you want them. :thumb:

:):)What type of pics do you want to see? I had the block decked, head bolt threads retapped for 12mm studs, and the Head was milled flat. Well thats what the machinist receipt said anyways.

The goal is to be in the 550 whp range while being a driver on occation. I have the machine work done already. Block is decked and the head was resurfaced by a mill not a sander. I had to pay extra for that. I just want the most reliable head gasket that has been tested by the guys on the forum...

What do you guys think of this distributer and part? EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

That is great information. But do you have any part numbers? Or can you suggest a distributer that can help me acquire these MLS gaskets for my piston bore size?

Sorry. Posted late.

Those are to mount the valve cover to the cylinder head.

Thanks for the input. I will read the links you posted.

I thought that same thing. But it threw me off when J_HEATH said his block was sanded to an almost mirror finish.

Does polishing the mating surfaces really help??

Does anyone have the part # for the oem MLS gasket?

I guess I could have been a lil more forthcoming on my engine build. It is a 4g64 from a 94 Galant. 87mm Wiseco Evo HD's The block has been decked and the head resurfaced I will be running the 7 bolt head and Evo 3 intake I hope to be running in the upper 20psi of boost. Hope this helps.

I'm in the final stages of my engine build. I was wanting to know what brand of headgasket has been working for high boost applications? I will be using a head stud combination with the higher grade head gasket. Thanks

I agree that the Bov is just very sensitive. Another senerio is that the Bov is to small for your setup. What size turbo are you running?

The vented Bov usually creates a stumble type senerio when you shift the car or the Bov vents. I run an automatic and suffered from this issue for a while. I finally went to a Maft setup. Now it doesn't stumble any longer.

Nice write up!!! Very good detail. :thumb:

Rod knock wouldn't go away after 20 minutes. Lol But the lifter senerio is going to be your best bet. 3G revised lifters are fairly cheap now and can be changed with the cams and timing belt still intact. There are a few videos on YouTube that will be very helpful in this repair. Good luck...

You can install the switch without any washer and verify continuity with the trans in reverse. Key on engine off!!! Unscrew switch until you loose continuity and verify thickness needed for the proper shim washer with a set of feeler gauges. Modify or shave your old washer and reinstall. Good...

Welcome to the forum.To answer your question. Yes you can. But most just use the supplied ports on the intake and throttle body for vacuum and boost pressure sources.I would post this question again in the newbi tech forum and you would get a lot more responses.

Unfortunately I had the exact same problem. I blamed it on my large fmic at first. But after diagnosing it properly it indeed turned out to be the radiator. So I know what your fighting. Good luck.

Regardless of where the sound is coming from, it definitely sounds like a bearing failure. An idler or tensioner bearing for the accessory drive belts would result in a thrown belt and loss of a/c or voltage from the alternator. But a tensioner or idler bearing on the the timing belt side would...

I do know 417Motorsports. Blake has a BMW with a stock bottom end 4g63t that is stupid fast. He really knows his Dsm's. I work down in Conway. So I know where your at as well. Small world.

The easiest way to check the radiator for restriction is exactly like AMPSYCO had suggested. With a heat gun and look for cold spots. It could still let coolant pass through the radiator with it being restricted. Just not through all the the needed cores to accurately cool the coolant. I vote...

It could be a bad gauge cluster. Or the tach wire could be getting interference from another source like the alternator. Finding the tach wire at the engine compartment and shielding it with foil wrap could help the issue.

If you have to many accessories on the cigarette lighter circuit, it will definately overload the fuse and blow thus said fuse. I would consider relocating the gauge wire to an unused fuse location in your fuse box area.

The mitsubishi part # is MD062961. M10x31. Thread pitch is probaly 1.25mmHope this helps.I beleive there is 3 bolts and 1 stud that are needed as well.

Are the turbo and manifold stock?A studder while under boost is a definate sign of a boost leak. Dsm ehaust manifolds are notorious for cracking. So I would definately pull the heat sheild and inspect the mating points, for loose bolts, and for cracks.

For the overheating issue: I recently had a similar issue when I replaced my headgasket. After exhausting all my knowledge I took it to a local shop and the mechanic walked out to my car with a hand held temp gun and measured the radiator at the inlet and outlet hoses. The temps were so far off...

That looks like it will work. By giving adjustment on both pulleys. Thats pretty smart. Thanks!!!

I have read up on the 4g64 DOHC build. My question is about the timing belt. I want to run a performance belt from HKS. But they do not offer one for the 4g64 so I am told. They do offer one for the 4g63 though. I know the 4g63 belt is 153 teeth and the 4g64 is 154 teeth. Is there a way to...

The crank will bolt in without machining. But depending on what rods you use, they may come in contact with the lower section of the cylinder. You will also have to modify the oil squirters due to the piston traveling lower in cylinder.Good luck with the build!!

How long has it been since you have replaced the timing belt? Most likely it's a timing belt tensioner bearing.

I have hks 272's, 255 walbro, 1000 cc pte injectors, hx 35 holset, dsmlink, with speed density. I don't see why I can't swap that to the new set up and install the 2.4 if I upgrade the rods and pistons in the 2.4.I think I can lower the compression on the bottom end to 8.5 to 9.1 or so and...

Can I lower the piston compression to 9.1 or so and run it safely under boost?

Can I put the long block in with my turbo and run it?

Kiggly Racing offeres a crank sensor wheel set up for the 6-bolt so you can use the 2g wiring to the crank sensor. If not, you can just rewire the engine harness to accept the 1g cas. You can find that wiring information on the Magnus Motorsports web site.

I did a search and could not find the answer I was looking for. So I apalogize in advance.I currently have a 97 gs-t with a 6-bolt swap in a automatic. The engine developed a realy bad knock. So I decided to pull the engine and go a different route. I found a good engine from a 94 Galant...