dot45 submitted a new DSM Profile :Daily DriverRead more about this vehicle here...

Whatever your intentions were, you came across as an elitist prick.I have the same install kit on my car, with a big 16g and had Zero fitment issues. So looks like a bad run of parts.OP: If you are in the metro-Detroit area and need a hand, let me know.

Don't go for a SAF-C.If you really want to know what your engine is doing, ECMLink is a great way to go.

Just to be clear, you elongated one of the holes in the spindle?I already have the j-spec knuckles for my evo brakes (if the weather ever warms up.....)I don't think I would feel at ease, knowing that one of the fasteners holding my caliper to the car is riding in a slot.

Not all eclipses came with ABS.My 97 GSX doesn't have ABS

OMG that is sexy.

The tensioner pulley ate its bearing on my car..Previous owner removed the AC compressor instead of changing a $15 bearing......

How does the sending unit for your oil pressure idiot light look? I know mine started to leak.

Triple F Bracket 6 Bolt - DSM/EVOThey sell one that is already tapped, just look at where they tapped it.

Don't wait until the day your supposed to pick it up. Unless that's Monday. Call them and get the arp's over there as soon as you can. Giving them a heads-up, might give them some wiggle in getting your block done sooner. Be honest as to why your on a time constraint.

How much boost are you running? With ARP head studs (not the L19's) you should be good to 35psi on a composite gaskets.

My Big 16G (MHI) starts spooling @ ~2800 rpm, reaches full spool (set to 10psi for now) @ 3200rpm. Check my bio for mods.

I have one of these housings on my car. Since installing (once car is fully up to temp) I only see 3-5 psi @950rpm. before the install I did not have my aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed. I have not welded up the hole yet, planning on pulling the housing off this weekend and doing that. I...

I had to have the DNP stainless manifold I purchased surface ground. Both flanges were slightly warped. If your new manifold is stainless, be prepared for the shop to whine a bit. (stainless is harder on their equipment.)

Find a radiator repair shop. Most of them can steam clean the fuel tank, and then coat it.

Need a whole engine?What happened to yours? Unless block is f'ed up, you should be able to salvage it.

Look at my profile for an example of how to fill it out. It lets folks know at a glance what you have installed.I'll check your logs out in the morning, not on the computer with ecmlink atm.

I bought mine 2nd hand, and didn't have to pay to get forum access.I just had to give the serial number off the chip and what I wanted the username to be.

I'll let someone confirm, but I don't think that 1g piping is gonna fit a 2g.

Post a log, so we can see what its doing.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/237982-best-way-install-mbc.htmlAn external wastegate is meant to be used with a non-wastegated turbo. With a 16g you don't need one.

Your injectors should be fine, as they were not powered.You may have shortened the life of the pump if it got hot, but otherwise you should be fine. It was recirculating fuel all day.

I'd just remove the rear seat, and take the sending unit out. Then you have much easier access.

I'm also running the Thermal exhaust. I have the megan 3" DP and like it. Check my profile for other mods, as I am aiming for the same power goals. If you want to get rid of the cat, get some 3" stainless and get someone to weld flanges on it and remove the step down on the exhaust and the rear...

Unless you have done the timing belt recently, go ahead and do the t-belt and water pump while you have the head off.

Have you looked at a log of what is going on when it dies?

If you set your injector size and dead times in link, you should be fine to drive it 150miles. Just don't beat on it and you will stay well within safe limits on the engine.Leave it at stock boost levels, but put in the larger injectors. You want to stay out of boost on the drive there...

It kind of matters, the ecu needs to be socketed. Check out the faq on ecmlink's webpage. epromid [ECMTuning - wiki]

Do you have the part # for the condenser? Or the fitting sizes?

We are not telling you to loop the lines, replace the line. Fix it the right way. Power Steering Lines

You most likely have a poor ground on that housing. The common ground for the tail light circuit is located under the passenger fender, found by removing the splash shield. Multiple grounds plug into a harness and bolt to the frame.

If it only leaks from the inside, then the flare is messed up, you need to replace the hose to fix it.

Please read this massive thread. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/364435-evo-8-10-brembo-calipers-dsm-conversion-1g-too-9.html

Have you thought about replacing the line?If you take the line off, a local hydraulic shop should be able to make you a new one.

Flush your heater core out, while you have everything apart. Might as well do the block as well.CLR does wonders :D

I would also recommend purchasing a new valve cover gasket and the injector hole seals as well. Just put new back in, less chance of an oil leak because of old bad rubber.EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

OP has a 1g non-turbo.Your pic shows a 2g turbo...

In the process of adding some goodie's to the car, and want to remove the accumulator from the clutch hose. I am trying to determine the fitting for the end of the slave hose, that connects to the hardline. I am trying to get the hose this weekend, so I need the specs to have the local hydraulic...

Look at that 2nd video I linked, follow its guide for the cruise.

The clutch could be bad. If you unplug the harness from the compressor and start the car up, if your compressor stays engaged you know the clutch is bad. If not then further troubleshooting is needed.

That looks much happier, have you taken it for a spin yet? I noticed your throttle position is slightly off, the second guide shows how to adjust that, you don't need the car running for that adjustment. The log just needs to see from 0% to 100% throttle swing to do the adjustment.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/initialsetup.htmlset cc/min to 450 and deadtime to 0http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

His tune is set for 850cc injectors, hence why I asked for a list of mods.

Can you list the mods to the car, or is your profile accurate?

Yep it worked, no problem.As for the log, can you upload the .elg file. Link usually puts it in C:\Users\<username>\ecmlink\datalogs\edit: I have the log downloaded and it opens correctly, I haven't fiddled with ECMlink yet so I wont be of much help. Did you use the Tuning 101 guide...

edit your post, click the "advanced" button.That will take you to edit screen showing your post. Click the paper clip icon, a new window will pop open. Click browse and select the file you want to upload. Click Upload, then scroll to the bottom and click "close this window" Then submit...

They use 50/50 from the factory, so they don't have to use different mixes depending on where the car is sold. Living in Michigan I run 60% water/40% coolant. Note the attached chart for coolant ratio to freeze protection.Also a great article...

I love how they say you will gain 10-16 HP, just by bolting this on....

The light blue piece your describing sounds like the air deflector. Acts like a diverter to move air into the radiator instead of around it. I would look at the classifieds for guys doing part outs.