Small update, I built a surge tank using the stock hardlines and now it doesnt break up up top.Managed to do a 10.61@128 with a 1.550 60' after a burnout, it was just too cold out 41*f (5*c) for a better launch. Still have an exhaust manifold leak gonna have to resurface the manifold atthis...

So after doing an exhaust leak test, I found a few big ones (pre turbo), I only had spare time to fix one LOL.But it was enough for a 10.8, which is not bad considering the build. I also loved hitting 1.5 60' times consistently, thank you automagic! I did have to let off half way through third...

Im sure it's not perfect, but it's so late in the season there's not enogh time to swap it yet again. I forgot to that day, but what I do is pump in fresh trans fluid right before the pass in the staging lanes. I made a thingy for it ;) .

Ran cleaner today but the track prep was terrible, 16* timing and 40psi. Something feels off, maybe an exhaust leak. Gonna try to take it once more this year. 11.1@121

The motor is a hack, used NPR non-turbo pistons (9:1cr) modified for eagle rods. I didn't even re ring them, pulled them out of a spare parts bucket lolMachine shop didn't inspect the head and 2 valves weren't fully closing so I popped out the two lifters and ground them down until they would...

I'll upload pictures of all the details a bit later, the metal in the oil was so fine that even my Fp turbo oil filter didn't catch any. All the bearings looked "tired" but not bad. Just normal wear. And the oil pump was pretty much spotless.I was alarmed at first, at this point my best guess...

After overheating the trans from doing 6 back to back launches, I messed up the sprag in the converter which kept me from achieving any kinds of time slips. After fixing that, I went back and did an 11.2 while breaking up half way down the track and beyond, while also skipping over 2nd gear ( I...

Very nice! Have you tried blocking off the lockup solenoid as well?

Getting ready for the first drag day in a very long time, fixed the boost issue after the video by swapping out the ancient boost solenoid with a new Hallman controller.First test "launch":So far this ultimate ghetto motor build has held up let's see what she'll run in the quarter!IG...

A year after picking up a brz and subsequently turboing it, I had the chance to work on the spyder. The wastegate is blowing open at lower RPM's but Im also currently just using one wastage port. I also max out the 1000cc's at 6k rpm, 10.8 afr spraying 28gph of meth at 10*. The new injectors...

renovatdkitchen updated AWD Spyder DDView updates to this DSM profile...

I've got the ahp alphatig as well, and @b00stedtalon2 I think now they are both upgraded as I remember seeing a video by weld.com on YouTube regarding an upgrade kit but the new one is flexible across two axis by 30*.

Honestly I had no idea why it did, lol. I even tried to target a hotter coolant temp. It would just do its pulse and at idle or cruise it would run cold. The stock coolant temp sensor worked before I did the swap, I even tried running the Davies Craig sensor in the rad but it did the exact same...

Both sensors were in the same stock location. Again, I ALSO read instructions and know how it operates. Im posting my results WITH a log to prove what my experience.

Yea, I can read their instructions. But sometimes the world isn't black and white. Running without a t-stat with: Top mount s375 w/turbo blanket ETS 5" FMIC AFCO Sirocco style rad w/ -16an line Davies Craig EWP 115 w/LCD controller 12" FAL fan No ducting and these were my temps after over 6...

@wing3r09 It does, but its not enough as the EWP flows too much even at the lowest setting.

I used to street drive my drag car with the Davies Craig water pump with the revised controller.I even drove it to Ohio with it. I recommend keeping in the thermostat because I removed mine and it ran way too cold. It only got up to 205*f once, and that was sitting in a standstill highway for...

I've been running 26psi on a ported e16g on my N/A bottom end for a few weeks now, drive everywhere like I stole it, admittedly I dont even wait for the oil temps to warm up. Motor has been fine but I just stripped 4th gear a few days ago.

renovatdkitchen updated AWD Spyder DDView updates to this DSM profile...

I'm not 100% about DSM's sold outside of the USDM, but when turboing my spyder with a N/A 4G63, I had to add a knock sensor then just swapped the fusebox and engine harnesses including the resistor box as I am running low impedance injectors.

I've only ever seen aftermarket thermostats cause more issues. The car is meant to run within a certain temperature range, not below it.

@chrysler kid I believe he’s referring to the optical CAS.

Yes. The one closest to the timing belt. And use the cam gears to set it only if the gun is adjustable. If not then you have to go by the crank pulley.

Use cyl #1.If the timing light is adjustable, puta dab of whiteout on the timing marks on the cam geras, set the gun to 5* BTDC and point it at the cam gears. Makes it easier to see the light.

renovatdkitchen submitted a new DSM Profile :AWD Spyder DDRead more about this vehicle here...

Subscribed.

^What he said.Because they'll need to turn down the crank if it's scuffed up, you may even end up buying more bearings to make a complete set with proper clearances.

ACL race bearings almost seem too soft and don't last too long. I too have chosen to go with King XP bearings. I personally would sooner go OEM/top line rather than a ACL race bearing.

renovatdkitchen updated 98 Spyder GST (AWD swap)View updates to this DSM profile...

Ah, I made the assumption you had ecmlink. I've never done it without ecmlink, but suppsedly the is a way to ground the timing without it on the firewall with '95 cars.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-timing-adjustment-ground.277373/

To set base timing? Physically, no. Go to the "Misc" tab on the right side and ground the two options there. Then adjust the CAS till it reads 5*BTDC on the crank pulley with a timing light zeroed out.Stephan

Yes, with a timing gun and adjusting the sensor on the passenger side of the head that goes into the intake cam until it's at 5*BTDC.

What are colours of the triangle connector? It's in the location of either the A/C or crank sensor (2g 7 bolt).Is the base timing set correctly?

The alternator relay?I've seen so many left just hanging and bare, lol. Not that that's a good thing.

renovatdkitchen updated 98 Spyder GST (AWD swap)View updates to this DSM profile...

I'm going to be running a similar setup, just waiting on my engine to be back from the machine shop.I'm going to be running ARP L19's and a HKS headgasket. They seem to have a good reputation. Probably aren't as strong as o-ringing it, but if something has to go, I'd rather it just be the...

Its super simple to swap out jets, until you drop them into the engine bay! lol. There's really nothing to it though.

Post turbo, about 6 inches before the throttle body.I think the fueling settings were under the anti lag controls. Controlled my timing and enriched fuel that way, it seemed to work well.

With my setup last year, when my ecmlink wasn't glitching, a 75 shot spooled my s475 in a couple seconds, but I might step it up to a 100 shot.I also went with a dry shot instead of a wet to avoid any nitrous backfires.

Have you done a boost leak test yet? My 1g did the same thing when I had a massive leak from the intake manifold gasket.

I had a similar problem back with my first Talon.Try checking the wires around the ECU and ensure its getting a good ground. Then open the ECU, check for loose eprom (as said above), as well as for burn marks on the main board or any bad smell. I believe mine ended up being a faulty board.

At quick glance, looks like an Evo 8/9 ofh for a 7 bolt.

These guys have a version of that crank holding tool, but theirs can also be used to keep the hub from spinning when torquing on the axle nuts: https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17365.For doing the timing, one of the tensioner tools and the cam gear holder makes it much...

Ah, well, even still as it is, yours is doing really well!I really don't think it can be considered weight savings, it only really helps with mounting things up in the front.

So I've started working on the changes for the winter, seem's like when I set the CAS at the shootout, I never put loctite on bolts, because one of them was missing and the other was very loose! It would explain why I was having issues suddenly at the track on the last day.The engine wiring...

The only time I had I had an issue was in the 1g with the mishimoto fan, rad and one OEM fan. I haven't tried the OEM rad in the 1g because when the car was purchased, the rad was blown. During the summer, I was lazy when I added the secondary fan, all I did was wired it to a switch for me to...

Sorry for the late reply. One combo was (1G) a standard Mishimoto rad (wasn't needed until summer), one large OEM fan and one Mishimoto slim fan; Second was (2G) Ebay dual core aluminum rad, two SPAL fans wired together; Third combo (2G) was a Fluidlyne dual core rad with two FAL fans. Fourth...

Went to the track, about 20 min away, my alternator decided it didn't want to make power, so I boosted the car from my friends car. Terrible idea? Yes. But I was dead set on logging one pass. Made 2 passes(after the first, my computer overheated and didn't save the log), both were trash, but...

Zeroed out the cam gears as it was spooling much too quick, then I worked out most of the bugs. Still have lots of tuning to do, but now with the injectors dialed in, she's a blast to drive. Even at just 30 PSI on pump gas, this thing hauls. During her first pull, that I drove down to Mexico to...