'99 Gsx- quick walkaround with cutout open - Car Videos on StreetFire This is a video of my car back when it was running. At the start you can see where I put my e-cutout. But it's on a Gsx. After the 3" dp, it was just a straight 3" pipe w/ no cat and the only bend behind the dp was the turn...

No..

This is exactly the info I've been trying to find, thanks. Turns out I have the exact same setup: g4cs, bc 280's, fidanza cam gears. I've been trying to figure out my timing because I've been having lots of idle and overheating issues. So this evening I'll recheck my base timing and then try...

This is what ended up with that. The reason the car wouldn't turn over is because the starter was locked up. A couple smacks with a hammer and that was good to go. Once that was resolved the fuel pump quit constantly running. Don't know how the two relate... but whatever, that's all good...

That's cool, I used to be big into car audio too and would use both (fuse blocks and c/b's) as well. I just wasn't sure why, in my case, a c/b wouldn't be ok. I'm still running my power wire to the 4 white wires in the fuse panel, so I guess I should be ok. Thanks for the answer.

The factory grounds it directly to the firewall (chassis), so how would rewiring to the chassis or frame in the back be any different?Any way... that's my car that was referenced in the other thread with the flip up license plate. I've actually wondered how that would go over at tech...

My car had those when I bought it. I think taking them off was the first thing I did to the car.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/207837-temporary-fix-random-misfire.html

Without the driveshaft being in the transfer case, I'm curious as to what he did to keep the fluid from coming out of the transfer case. If he just ran it dry, then I wouldn't be surprised if he added a locked up transfer case to the list of broken stuff soon.

The two whites wires coming from the battery, I'm trying to remember where they go. I know there's four white wires, 2 I believe go to the fuse panel and the other 2 go to the alternator. If you have a voltmeter then just read for continuity from the pos terminal to ground, there should be no...

The timing of this thread is perfect. I'll be making mine tomorrow.

The ecu should be good. I sent it in to Tom at ecmtuning to rechip it for v3. He checked everything out and replaced a couple things and said it was good to go. I'm gonna recheck the wiring on the fuel pump rewire. It was good last time I had it running but maybe the relay went bad or a...

I usually don't post questions because typically a quick search answers my question. But I couldn't find anything on this. My car has been down for well over a year... don't remember how long anymore. In the mean time I've been having a 6 bolt 2.4 built. I've finally got everything in the car...

It's the same as doing it for the 2g fwd. The wiring is the same, just different how you actually access the fuel pump.

You want pn: MB948632

Looking at the pics you show... that's not a non-cruise control cable. The non-cruise control cable doesn't have the nut and stuff on the end and has the flange to mount it to the intake man already on it. It still makes a loop over the valve cover. It'll look like this here: 2g NON- cruise cable

I just saw a post from larryd a couple days ago... my jaw hit the floor. Plenty "old" guys still around, we just don't talk so much... busy using the "search" button when we need it.

Take 1992awdlaser's advice. I guess your car is an exception, but I lose substantial braking power when I kill the ignition. While your at it... look again closely at my post count and then look when I joined. Yeah, 299 since early 2003... sure... I spend all my time on forums wasting my time...

It was a older bullseye 50, I'd heard from others that they were fairly laggy also. But mine was on a worn out 6 bolt with compression around 120 on all four. Don't worry, the tune was as good as could be. Btw, have you actually run 280's on a 2.4?

Because OP still thinks that because it's an automatic that RPM's have anything to do with it. Apparently it's got nothing to do with this: Full boost through open throttle body Throttle body closes- full boost meets wall... where's boost gonna go?Just do it already and post up the...

I'll just have to wait and see how it works out. I've heard several people say that the 280's work just fine on a stroker. Of course I'm in the market for a turbo... that's always the case. But the pos 50 trim I have now will have to do for awhile, it was slow spooling on my 2.0 anyway... so...

Have you checked all your timing marks to make sure everything lines up? It might've jumped time. Sounds kinda like how my car ran when the exhaust cam was off a couple teeth.

My bad.I thought they did, but it's been so long since I messed with that part of the car I've gotten myself all confused. I need to go back and look over all the little stuff. I've been too focused on trying to get this 2.4 put together and into the car.

No, I haven't... why in the world would I ?!? It's been sitting against the wall in my garage for the better part of 2 yrs. So I forgot that it's my current dd that has vac assist brakes and that my eclipse has hydraulic... s**t happens. At least I realize that even though an auto may prevent...

Then no vac for brakes.

I wish I knew, currently my motor is in this condition:Hopefully will have it running in about a month. But I'm using bc280 cams.

What, pray tell, will happen January? Btw, to stay on topic, I went with the jmf 1g race for my 2.4.

This could be any number of things. Bad: cas, coilpacks, transistor pack... the list goes on & on. Just gonna have to get a book and start troubleshooting.

Do a boost leak test to see if anything around your intake manifold is leaking... maybe a gasket or something acting like a diaphragm.

I got my shortblock from karking off of ebay. I don't see any active auctions from them right now, but you can call them and see if they might have anything in stock. Karking.comLocal Phone: (909) 947-3969 U.S. Toll Free: (800) 843-8349

I used the cometic 4g63 with a 87mm bore. 1g head, g4cs (6 bolt 4g64) I just put the motor back together a couple weeks ago. Everything lined up with the bottom end perfectly.

Actually, you'll want to get the gasket with a 86.5mm bore. 87 is for if you get the block bored .020 over like I did mine

I used a Cometic 4g63 headgasket for a 87mm bore, I'm building a g4cs and had it bored .020 over.

This is what I work in... small... but at least it's something.

Too many variables. I also forgot to mention that the Gst had a 6 bolt swap in it... so maybe with the lower compression I was able to get away with it. At 18psi I never had any problems with drivability. z24frank, seeing as how you're in Cali, I'm assuming you can only get 91 octane at the...

First, let me clear something up... I ran it at 18psi with no problems for over a year... not at the 20psi. Also, that was on a rewired 190 with 93 octane.Second, not trying to be rude, but don't give me or someone like me a newb 101 explanation to fuel cut... I didn't ask for it and I...

On the 95 gst I had, with a 14b and safc2, I ran 18psi with no issues. At 20psi on cold days I'd get massive fuel cut. Ran it like this for at least a year with no apparent problems, but back then I had nothing to log with... so who knows what was really going on.

I don't know... I'd just bought mine and had done alot of stuff done to it. It had 128k miles on it, but only 70 (not 70k) of those were mine. I bought it not running, needing a clutch. It spent about 7 months in my garage. It still don't even have the clutch and flywheel broken in. But...

What you're talking about is IDENTICAL to what mine sounded/acted like when I spun my rod bearing. Also on my number 2 while I think about it. It wasn't until I pulled my my rod caps that I saw any signs of failure, and this is what I found.

Disregard the fact that it's talking about a 6bolt in a 2g. It's still the same if you're using a 1g cas.

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G EclipseThis is down towards the bottom."How do I get rid of the Random Misfire studded and check engine light? ================================================================================ RM (Random Misfire)The ECU is flagging a misfire condition...

Until you get dsmlink, just disconnect your throttle position sensor and the misfire should go away. I ran my '95 like that for awhile before I was able to get link, with no problems.

Well, the obvious has been covered. Just look over all your non-stock wiring first and see if you can find anything there, including radio wiring. I remember a long time ago on the 95 I had, I was wiring up a radio... can't remember which wire I crossed where, but it blew my dimmer switch...

Ohhh, guess I missed the part where he said the top of it.

Does the thread match the other 10mm bolts that hold on the lower timing cover?

Yea, he can't adjust camber without either installing a kit or an adjustable upper ball joint. Camber looks ok though.

They should provide you with a sheet afterwards that shows the before and after toe,camber, and caster.

Get an alignment then come back and post before and after specs and tell us how the problem is gone.

If you plan to make a habit of rolling beads for people, I found this fairly affordable solution. Wouldn't take too long to make your money back. $125Woodward Fab WFBR6 - Woodward Fab Bead Rollers - summitracing.com

Chevy Tahoe (my dd), VW Passat (wife's dd), '99 Gsx (garage space taker upper)...