The bov(blow off valve) is vented to the atmosphere,cruise control was deleted.He did the cheap way out and filled the mounts with the rubber caulk stuff instead of prothane inserts.He could have just converted over to the 1g cas some people convert to that it doesnt necessarily mean it is a 6 bolt.

Looking at that oil pan you can clearly see it has the dip so it is a 7 bolt.The 6 bolt is completely flat around the oil pump.

It could also be a possible iac(idle air control valve) issue too.You can try taking it out and cleaning it.Do Not Use carb cleaner on it that is a common mistake people do.Take a dry clean rag and wipe the carbon build up off of it and wipe inside the throttle body where it sits.When is the...

I have a question to ask you when you did them with the head on the car did you use compressed air in the cylinders?I might have to do mine too.

Check your turbo for shaft play first.The valve stem seal job is a pretty big job.You have to pull the valve cover remove the timing covers line up all of the timing marks.Then you have to use the timing tensioner tool to loosen the tension take the timing belt off.Then loosen all of the cam...

If you get the timing tool set from jays racing you will be good.

I say go for it after you here it run and stuff.It is a clean car and the things that have been done to it were done right.Do you know the mileage on the car and how many pounds of boost it is running?

Do you use the upper timing cover?If not something probably got in there and bent it.

A hammer and a block of wood will do the trick.Just take it and go around the whole outside of the axle where it goes in to the transmission so it goes in evenly.

Yeah you are better off with one from the dealer.I have quite a bit of stuff from the dealer on my car and the dealer prices actually are pretty reasonable for some stuff.The reason i get stuff from them is it is exact fitment and the stuff lasts.

They deffinantly look stock.If they were aftermarket it would say what they are.Your car doesnt have a lopey idle does it?

Check the clutch master cylinder if it is alright then check the slave cylinder you should be able to push it in with your hand.The clutch could be gone too.How many miles are on the car and is it a 6 bolt or 7 bolt?If everything else is good it is possible you can have crank walk.

You might have to adjust the rod more on the master cylinder if you are sure all the air is out of the system.When you push in the slave cylinder in with your hand does it come back out?

Go through and double check your timing marks first.After that if that is all good check for spark if that checks out then the crank sensor is fine.You used a new gasket when swapping the throttle body right?Did you clean the throttle body before installing it?Also check the vacuum lines on the...

If the crankshaft position sensor is bad that can cause a spark issue but i think it would have no spark at all.I would deffinantly redo the CAS wiring.How do you know only the 2 cylinders are getting spark?

You made sure the balance shafts are lined up to right if you do still have them?You also made sure it was at TDC before lining the timing marks up right.

Go with the prothanes,I have the red ones they are nice.They are deffinantly a tuff mount.Once you have the rings out of the mounts the prothanes go in really easy.There is a little vibration but you get used to it and it softens up with time as they break in.

It seems like the side engine mount is missing the nuts that hold the mount to the engine.

It deffinantly sounds like a lifter tick,does it go away after it is warmed up?

I would pull the valve cover and check the lifters one of them could have collapsed.I would check the timing marks too.Do you have balance shafts or are they deleted?

It could be coming from the blow off valve.Check and make sure all of the vacuum lines are hooked up and that the intercooler pipes are all tight and the clamps arent loose.

Check for boost leaks those can cause a high pitched sound and also check the vacuum lines.

I say go with the gst because it is 5 speed like you want and turbo it doesnt need to much work.Possibly a transmission rebuild and fixing the common 2g strut tower rust.The other two need a lot of work.

Does it have cas on it maybe that got knocked out of place.

Yeah galants are similar so if you follow that you should be alright.The 1999 body style is different so the 7g style is what you need to follow.The only thing i am not to sure about is if the eclipses have the pre drilled spots for the master cylinder like the galants do.

You have a boost controller right since you are running 16 psi.I dont see anything about it up on the top.

Yeah that is what i was saying is to use manufatuer recommended transmission fluid and oem fluid.

Yeah i believe you need to drain the coolant too,but the pistons can be done with the motor in the car still.I would deffinantly change the rod bearings on them too.If you decided to go with better pistons you can use evo 8 pistons or weisco pistons with eagle rods.There are a couple of other...

Does it shift in and out of the gears alright?What happens when you push the clutch in does it grind?

It sounds like the shifter cables are kinked up and making it stick.

It seems like a pretty good buy.Do you have the ability to change the piston rings though?

Welcome to dsmtuners! The galant vr4 looks good,did you debadge it in the back?

Since you are awd i believe you need to swap the differential to a 5 speed one and you would need a 5 speed tranfer case.I dont think you can use the automatic stuff because of the gear ratios or something.

Mitsubishi transmissions are only suppose to have the transmission fluid from the dealer anything else will cause problems.I would drain the fluid out of it and get the right fluid.I believe it takes the diamond sp 3 fluid.I would look in to making it a 5 speed though.

Check all of your vacuum lines.Do you see smoke coming out of the exhaust?And i would also check the turbo for shaft play if it has in and out shaft play it needs a rebuild.Your wastegate accuator could have something to do with it too.

The exedy stage clutches are good that is what i am going to use when i put a new clutch in.I thought about the act 2100 but i dont know about using an act becuse of what i have heard about them.The pressure plate fingers break off and the springs on the disc tend to pop out.

You cant really use a 7 bolt head on 6 bolt block there are a couple of differences between the two.The head studs are slightly different sizes too so if air is getting in that way it will cause idle issues.

Nice man,i hope you broke the clutch in before going on the dyno.

Welcome to dsmtuners!

He is getting a new crank and i think he knows about the main bolts.He has everything organized.I think he wanted to rebuild it for a learning experience.

He is trying to but he has a lot on his plate right now.

Yeah building a motor is a lot of work.It all has been done just right.At least it is a learning experience though.

It sounds like you are running a little lean that will affect the way the car sounds.I would change the cam sensor and the tps sensor.Those will make your car feel like it has a loss of power.

Check all of your vacuum lines and make sure there didnt fall off,if they did that would cause your car to idle up and down

Welcome! How come you decided to make the car eletric powered?That is the first time i seen an eletric dsm.

Thanks man! Yeah i am going to put a 16g turbo in it.I am just gathering up the parts for it.Yeah they do have potential there are a lot jdm parts for it.Thanks! You can do an awd drive swap but the 4g64 is good,and the members on another forum for galants say the 4g64 bottom end is better...

Hi i am a new member on here.I own a 1994 mitsubishi galant gs.It has a 4g64 dohc engine which is pretty much the same as the 4g63 dohc with eception of the deck height of the block and the cams are a little more agressive then the 4g63.The galant gs was only made in 1994 and there were only...