Yes there's is a post with an autozone part #.May cause charge/battery light to come on I think the alternator may still charge battery tho idk mine just fell out like that too and I thought it was broke but nope looks like a plastic salt lick (mini size) w/ a resistor and a 4 pin connector...

Yea hope its not the Hub and chances are a stuck caliper heating up rotor. Do you ge any break/burn smells as wheel bearing would create a rumble worse over time and heat up center and all around shaft. Remove caliper and check condition, and see that pads are locked in place w/ shims and no...

UPDATE#5 Ok I had to replace the lower Control arm w/ ball joint (MAPP Gas melted it/newb) Also I hit the later arm ball joint with a metal hammer when I had punch and or shoulda uncoated both from from of car it was cold out and didn't wanna go under but I got new sway bar end link/Lower...

Yea I got both shafts and it seems like they asked me if its a Spyder Model or a GST and Im like why. Alll the GST Videos dont not have the same looking suspension as my spyder and not the regular 2 bolts on straut mount. I have a wieru Wishbone with dual ball joint knuckles and a mini double...

UPDATE#4 CV AXLE THREADS ARE SHOT and Mushroom and stripped from last cross drilled/slotted rotor install. Looks like Ill have 2 brand new CV Axles and new Castle nuts that will actually bolt on and a lifetime warranty if I break any joints/shafts, not sure whats fails 1st in the stock auto as...

Finally installed a 2G tranny in my Turbo Spyder, installing Greddy FMIC and 190lph Walbro fuel pump and boost gauge/leak tester. Need to put a few pieces back together but trans made it on flexplate/dowel pins perfect.

Update#3 I have the donor trans in and mounted to flexplate etc. and most of harness plugged in still a few things like the starter bolts I need their sizes(both different?) Still needs more connections/cruise/Fuel Lines/Battery Stuff/Starter/ crossmember/axles.FMIC Kit done and Bumper. Thanks...

Yea there is a good link to Videos on Rebuilding that Valve Body on an Auto DSM. I have a 2G 98 Spyder GST(FWD Turbo) and had same harsh shift but all clutches gripped good all 4 gears and reverse. Mine was leaking fluid and something else worn cuz it wouldnt move til it heated up also then got...

Update#2 Got all 4 converter bolts off and I put the toque converter all the way in the trans and is inside the bellhousing almost 3/8 inch. I am having trouble getting the trans to install the driver axle and put it onto pins on block I have 2 jacks and hoist need a 2nd person to simple put...

Update#2 Got all 4 converter bolts off and I put the toque converter all the way in the trans and is inside the bellhousing almost 3/8 inch. I am having trouble getting the trans to install the driver axle and put it onto pins on block I have 2 jacks and hoist need a 2nd person to simple put...

Thanks I am in the process of getting a compressor rebuilt and some air tools those 4 flexplate bolts are gonna strip. Damn any cheaper way like a spanner wrench thats thin and medium long length? Might just wait for impact and wobble connector idea. Last part holding up my swap, got tranny...

Update! I was able to get the trans off the Driver side axle had to get ripped out off the green cusp on shaft. I also was able to rotate 90 degrees and lower the trans down and take off hoist and me and my BIG fried wiggled it off the converter yay:hellyeah:. Now I am having trouble with those...

Update I was able to get the trans off the Driver side axle had to get ripped out off the green cusp on shaft. I also was able to rotate 90 degrees and lower the trans down and take off hoist and me and my BIG fried wiggled it off the converter. Now I am having trouble with those 17mm(4 Bolts)...

I had a buddy come down from Michigan to Hermitage PA 16148 to assist with the swapping of my leaking 98 Spyder Turbo OEM (99k miles). We got everything disconnected and I have 1 bolt on rear tranny mount stuck(Mapp gas couldn't break it either). But I dont want to disconnect engine stuff to...

I had a buddy come down from Michigan to Hermitage PA 16148 to assist with the swapping of my leaking 98 Spyder Turbo OEM (99k miles). We got everything disconnected and I have 1 bolt on rear tranny mount stuck(Mapp gas couldn't break it either). But I dont want to disconnect engine and lower by...

If there is no driveability difference after gauge did this it could be the speed sensor itself or wiring(unlikely unless previous owner messed with OEM) Do you have a 5 speed or Auto trans and is it 1G or 2G?

A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: O2 Heater element resistance is high Internal short or open in the heater element O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance open or short to ground in the wiring harnessRead more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0135 Copyright ©...

I am newbie with most of the 2G drivetrain and body style. I am looking to get around 300-350hp goal. I have to get my transmission finished swapping in. Also have a FMIC kit and 190lph Walbro fuel pump that Id like to install as well. Turbo and all other parts besides plugs/wires/intake filter...

If you can use a multimeter to see which lines are your 12v and ground then you can just cut the wires on the fog lights and use your existing plug in, or you can go to yard and find a set of pigtails for fogs that match you lights and cut em off and rewire matching colors?

The drill size should be in metric 6.7mm or diameter standard (.3150").

Yes it will keep nasty oil that would get into piping and also removes crankcase nasty ventilation and make sure its a large enuf can. This is keep oil out of turbo pipes and even intercooler if valve cover is routed OEM to intake.

I had a buddy come down from Michigan to Hermitage PA 16148 to assist with the swapping of my leaking 98 Spyder Turbo OEM (99k miles). We got everything disconnected and I have 1 bolt on rear tranny mount stuck(Mapp gas couldn't break it either). But I don't want to disconnect engine stuff to...

I had a buddy come down from Michigan to Hermitage PA 16148 to assist with the swapping of my leaking 98 Spyder Turbo OEM (99k miles). We got everything disconnected and I have 1 bolt on rear tranny mount stuck(Mapp gas couldn't break it either). But I dont want to disconnect engine stuff to...

Good Idea on doing new hard lines, also the small is to Caliper Long is to main line off hard line, on most aftermarket SS Brake line kits. It is going to really firm up your pedal and feel way less spongy after you bleed it all. Nice coil over setup too. What kinda brake calipers are you going...

I know from Mustang V8's that the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch kits have a really nice pressure plate strong and the fingers are unique compared OEM and can handle more than your 300-360 goal. I know of alot of weekend warriors using a Stage 2(Stage 3 may be to aggressive for daily shifting...

Sweet good deal like to see more on the road. Didnt want you to waste time on this after all the parts you did troubleshoot it down tho. Doing a tranny swap this weekend when its a cold spell in east thank god for garages.

Im betting on the only thing you haven't done is the Cam Angle Sensor and is that a 90?

If you unbolt the compressor housings and can clean it with anything like a solvent WD40/Seafoam bath/Mineral Spirits soak/cleaning maybe? But make sure the 02 sensor is out and you may be able to sand off that coking and do a small port job/dremel sand off the coking on the 02 housing side to...

Yea not enough fluid pressure causes reverse in any gear happened to me a couple times when tranny was leaking out front pump seal. I know the AWD system is easy to disconnect(Did it as a newbie w/ no lift on cardboard) and you dont need a new transfer case or anything else.

I know when the fluid gets really low it will default to reverse gear drive regardless of 1,2,D,OD. Sounds like the damage has been done if fluid is dark and smells burnt/toasty. I would either rebuild kit or find a decent used AWD Auto tranny on Classifieds . I found mine for a Spyder Turbo GST...

So after I get my other auto transmission since my original(Only 90K On Engine and Internals,65K All belts and water pump replaced) tranny(FWD Turbo) has blown a front pump/main seal and leaks everywhere but moves if ya fill it up w/ Lucas and ATF+4 . It does not slip gears or have any burnt up...

Yes you can deal with the Insurance Company and if they total out the car you may be able to buy it off them as a Salvage/Rebuilt title since the car most likely is frame damaged etc. Then you can swap all the parts you want and sell whats good left and scrap for metal. It may be even less than...

Hopefully it didnt short nothing in you ECU(Computer) when you got that Jump. Did you ever take it to autozone and they can run a load test on car running also pull any ODBII engine codes. Do you have a Check Engine Light?

Some monster tires like a Blizzak or All 4 studded tires. Also see if you can get underbody coated/rubberized to protect from salt/snow/rust. Good mix of Antifreeze coolant and check heat and any other maintenance items before the cold hits. Turbo FWD is hard to get traction if you have power...

Oh I assumed it was turbo engine since cams were on the right side like a 4G63T, I see the picture is Showing him on the passenger side of motor so yes it is a N/A sorry didn't see that Title. All but the balance shaft/turbo wear I mentioned can be thrown out. N/A can be more reliable w/ out all...

Like he said above all are recommended if you are just starting out w/ DSM Turbo cars. Their is just as much maintanence as they are fun. Keep good belts and replace all belts if unknown mileage. If your plan is for more mods and bolt ons then do as above 1st to make sure you have a solid motor...

Ah yes the famous hydraulic tensioner and idler pulleys. I always go w. OEM parts(Last Longer). If you get a quality aftermarket timing Belt and did you remove the balance shafts setup, if not ID suggest changing that small belt as well while your in that area. But if you did a rebuild ost try...

I have seen any rubber hoses near manifold or turbo to get really weak and stretch and wear around where it clamps. I have also seen this on the smaller Oil Filter/Cooler water hoses(small few inches) to turbo inlet for water cooling too.

http://vfaq.com/mods/ECUs.html

Yea that spring gets weaker and requires more tightening til its out of boost range and youll get a boost leak above stock levels 12psi and higher on most, and adjusting per psi to hold. I hate knowing my 2g stock BOV is most likely leaking and not doing 8-10lbs of boost

Cougar232 submitted a new DSM Profile :98 Spyder TurboRead more about this vehicle here...

Most cars have blower motor in Passenger front lower dash/above their feet and 3 screws that hold it in 8mm.

Check to see if the brakes or Ebrake is hangin up. Also check that there is no fluid leaks burning off exhaust?

100$ sounds reasonable since its not a large part, only powdercoating mostly near me.

Same as above. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and a good oil filter like Bosch/K&N/Mobil 1, depending on weather and season a 5w-30 or 0w-40 also. Changing it every 3000 miles is the best regardless of oils.

Seems to be a weird more of an electrical issue than mechanical, I would make sure you have good Ignition Coils/Wires/Plugs/TPS also are you able to get any reliable Airto Fuel ratio gauges while this is happening or any smoke? It seems to idle OK too so nothing w/ IAC valve. Corvette MAF is...

Damn transmissions, really fun when a DSM runs but sometimes just as much maintenance lol

Yes same as above, Timing Belt around every 60-80K(Max) and change Balance Shaft Belt, and if not already replaced maybe a water pump while your in that area and get a new mechanical tensioner pulley(Hydraulic tensioner only if needed or high miles) as well. Their is also some High End timing...

That engine code will give you what the ODBII computer says is wrong possible boost leak/misfire as well, check codes free @ Autozone etc..Also get the code cleared after and see if it comes back and how its running when it activates the Check Engine Light(CEL)