Is it internally or externall gated, and are you using a MBC or EBC.

Go with the EVOIII. The spool time will be in the low 3000, and possibly high 2000's. On race gas it will take you to the mid 12's, but that is with a majority of supporting mods. Next thing on your list should be a logger, an AFC, and some 550's.

Can you replace an oil squirter just by taking off the oil pan, or is there more stuff that needs to be disassembled(1g).

My passenger side axle was stuck in the knuckle/hub. I had it pressed out with a 12ton press and then took the knuckle(ABS) to Mitsu just for shits. It would be 300$ roughly with my discount through my local shop to repair the knuckle from the press. I just went to the local pick-and-pull...

www.dsmtrader.comT-cases are all OVER the place. They can be had so cheap. Just search on that site and look around.

Ive got a plug for the water pipe from AMS. It is a bolt that just threads in. I just put on some teflon and put it in. No leaks whatsover. I am running an AGP 50-trim kit.

VFAQ.com has answers to most DSM questions. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Its called APEX, and its in Bensenville I believe. It is where AMS sends all of their stuff. My block is there right now getting bored .20 over. The number is 630-766-7168.

Replace the turbo yourself. Or at least have your mechanic do it while you watch. Learn how to do it, so in the future you can do it yourself.This way, you wont have to wait for your mechanic to get in town everytime something as easy as a turbo replacement happens.

Its just phantom knock. As long as you are not knocking at WOT you will be OK @ 19psi.

In the meantime, just take off the exhaust from the downpipe. Its loud as hell, but effective.

How did you get the axle out? Did you just take off the whole nuckle from the lower ball joint, strut, and sway bar? I have no clue howto get this thing out.WTF is the secret to taking out the front axles. They are ####ing stuck in the part by the wheel. plymouthlaser.com says to gently...

The connector your talking about is prolly the one for the fuel pump. Which could definately be a problem.

All the shops will tell you something else. Buschur tells people to stick with OEM, Magnus swears by the cometic, and AMS has stuck with the MLS.Personally, after reading all of the tech archives on NABR, I went witht the MLS gasket. Copper spray with the MLS and ARP's will hold pretty...

Go with a 3052.

The 16g turbo should be a JDM part number since 16g's werent on any US cars.

What clutch are you running?

Dont worry about being in the positive range. My car is in that range with 680's and a 2g MAS. Mine was at +22 on the low at 1000rpm. Just tune it to how your car likes it. Dont worry what the values are at on the low.When you open it up WOT, your settings will find themselves going into...

Take out the axles, t-case, and all other miscelaneous shit, but leave the trans connected to the engine. Use a chain wrapped around the tranny for the other side of the lift. It will come out easily.

Greddy intercoolers are nice I guess, but they have alot of un-necessary piping which draws me away from them.Check out AGP's, victory performance, dejon tool, slow boy racing, etc. for some of their intercoolers. They will have shorter piping, and you can run a 1g BOV rather than the POS...

Look about midway down. They have pics and everything for where to tap on the 1990's.http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/oillineinstall.htm

Get the fifty trim with a .63The .48 does not provide enough topend, which is what your going to want in a fwd.

Turn up the idle to around 900-1000.

Mine was at +22 on the low side @1000rpmThis is with a 50-trim, 2g mas with side combs removed, 680 injectors.

Get the pump installed with some 550's and an afc. Also get a logger of some sort. You need to make sure you are not pulling timing, which it looks like you are doing. Tuning is what is gonna make your car go faster, not boat loads of parts. Does your car still have a cat?Those numbers...

Possibly burned a valve. Was there a large backfire at all before working on the car?

Will it go into any other gears. Park/reverse/1/2

When at the track or racing on the street, how are you shifting your DSM? Do you lift off of the gas when making your shifts or do you keep the gas down the whole way?

I got mine jet hot coated. Im not happy with the SS look. It has faded around the turbo due to the high pressure and heat. I am going to switch the the high temp black stuff.Here is a pic of it new.

If I remember correctly, they need to be degreed alot in order to have a nice vaccum and idle. Can some1 else put in some words of advice?

Take the oil from the filterhousing, not the head. Especially on a PTE turbo.

If you place it after the BOV you can vent the BOV making the higher whistling noise. If you have it in the stock location then you cannot vent.Either way, it will be an upgrade to you 1g MAS.

Is you "engine" fuse blown. Are you getting fuel? Are you getting spark?

First off, lower your base fuel pressure to about 43. It looks like you have a FPR that doesn't allow you to lower it at all, so try and get it as low as you can...meaning, dont raise it to 60.Then try and get your fuel trims at about 100. Start out with about -19 across the low on the afc...

Since your a 2g and really want a rebuild it sounds like as well as extensively modify it. I would find a 6-bolt engine to rebuild. There is no point in puttin a lot of money into a 7-bolt when you can do it in a 6-bolt. With that out of the way, eagle rods, with your choice of pistons will...

As long as your car is not pulling timing, your good to lean it out a LITTLE.

With all of the money you are going to spend, you could buy an AWD car on the side and run 11's along with your FWD as a DD.Of course those mods will get you in the 11's, but its very overkill, that could prolly get a fwd in the 10's.

Did you have the car fully warmed up before you did the test. It needs to be fully warmed up.

4.5 quarts.

It will bolt up to your engine. The difference in the 1990 transmissions is the internals, not the bolt pattern. I believe the 90's have a different 1st gear design or something to that nature. I would send my trans to shep and get the basic rebuild for $890 rather than buying a mystery jdm...

A compression test will help you the most in determining if there is a headgasket problem.

Yes, the 1990 coilpack is different I believe. Can anyone confirm this for him?

vert, id watch your EGT's, your A/F ratio is lean at over 12.1:1.Try lowering the boost, or adding a lil more fuel.

base timing should be at 5. If you are highly modded and cannot reduce knock, try retarding the timing to 3-4. To check base timing, you must ground the ECU and use a timing light.

I went to prom last year. It consisted of eating at the "prom" then dancing since this busta can dance. Then post prom which was on a huge boat on Lake Michigan. Then left all that and we all went to Wisconsin Dells. Good times and our school is never welcome back to that hotel at the Dells...

Wow, i have a 50-trim kit from agp and i ran a 13.1 then I dropped a valve. The car was running like ass too. The 13.1 was at 107 on an AWD car. You should be running a waaay higher trap speed. My car needs a tune, and your car needs a big tune.What was your boost at, and what octane...

Dont give your car the sticker treatment, and most small car clubs are ###.

There are no 10 second reliable DSM's. 11's is a good goal and it could be reliable. Also, a 10 second slip will require race gas and such. I have what could be an 11 second car that I drive 100 miles each week to work and back plus messing around on the weekends. If you want to run 10's, it...

What is your base timing set at?

On my car with 680's and a hacked 2g mas in order for my car to start, I had to have my low settings @ +20. Try going in the plus settings and see if that works. It did for me.