rtrocket59 updated Steve's TalonView updates to this DSM profile...

I'm definitely going to be doing a new converter, most likely precision industries

I got a few bushing/bearing and seal driver kits so hopefully I have the right size somewhere.Doesn't sound much different than the 41te I built so I shouldn't have much trouble.Thanks very much for your advice, I appreciate it man. Maybe I can do a write up for others if I have the time!

Thanks for the fast reply!I've actually watched all his videos already haha but I was thinking about getting the ipt performance kit and translab shift kit. Seems to have everything you need.I'll send my valve body out, just cuz I want it to be done right and I don't wanna drill the wrong...

I'm planning on rebuilding my w4a3 but I'm not sure whether I want to do it myself or send it out to metro trans. What is really holding me up is the special tools, I don't wanna buy all of them because not all of them are needed, and they're pricey. But I don't know which ones I definitely must...

I also have my oil pressure sensor remote mounted

Oh, well that would have been nice to know :DI would pick up a mechanical gauge (rent one from advanced auto or something) to verify what's going on.

Yes I agree. Again, most likely a gauge issue. I would verify before I got it back on the road though.

Do you still have the factory gauge hooked up? If so, whats it reading? Dummy light on? If so

I would verify that you actually have an oil pressure concern by hooking up a mechanical gauge. Hopefully its just an issue with your gauge.

Hmm I was unaware of this, definitely makes sense though. Say he has the solenoid deleted, could the TPS code be related to his concern?

Yes, can you buy a digital multi meter? Its possible that it may need to be adjusted, replaced, or you have a circuit issue (open/shorted wire).

rtrocket59 updated Steve's TalonView updates to this DSM profile...

Take it in for AC service. Those "AC Pro" recharge bottles contain sealant and they can ruin the TXV and or compressor. Once you use it, good luck finding a shop that's willing to destroy their AC machine to remove it from the system.

It sounds like a short to ground but it also sounds like an overcharging issue.... Can you check your battery voltage with engine off? At idle? And at 2500 RPM? Do you have a digital multi meter?

Did this start to happen after replacing a certain part?

Is it only going into limp mode when you enter closed loop? Or just when the car is warm?

Yes sorry, so used to abbreviating that. But p0303, p0170, and p0420 are all "condition" codes. Meaning they are the result of another failure. P0120 is a TPS circuit failure code. Meaning the ecu saw a value on that circuit which was above/below a calibrated threshold.As a Ford technician...

What's your battery voltage with the engine off? At idle? At 2500 RPM?

From the information you provided, it sounds like the TPS code is causing your other codes. Know how to use a DMM?

Its just an on/off switch. Let's just say its a normally closed switch in the neutral/park position for sake of discussion (don't know the actual off the top of my head).When in park/neutral, the ecu will see voltage coming from the circuit and logic will allow the starter relay to be...

Does the concern feel more apparent in different weather conditions? Is it going into open loop when this happens?Intermittent concerns are usually related to loose connections/high resistance in a circuit. So don't rule stuff out just because a component was replaced.A log would definitely...

Well that would've been nice to know on the OP lol. Replace the inner tie rod ends and boots, then bring it in for an alignment.

Did you have the car aligned after doing this?

It's possible that you have a faulty power steering pressure switch (or circuit) or IAC (or circuit). When you're in a parking maneuver, your power steering pressure goes up and requires more power from the engine, the ecu in turn, increases idle speed via IAC.If that switch is faulty, the ecu...

Incorrect toe is the only alignment concern that's going to cause your steering wheel to be off center. Replace the tie rod ends, and bring it in for an alignment

What kinda mods do you already have? Any type of tuning software (ecmlink, safc)?

What color was the fluid? Was it gooey? Notice anything odd?

Frankie you failed to mention that your maf plug is pretty much "on top" of your fuse box.

I would pull up a wiring diagram and specs on the VSS. Sounds like you have a short some where and the vehicle thinks you have a type A misfire (flashing MIL, damage to catalyst imminent). Test the resistance on the VSS just to verify that's not bad. Hope you can resolve this. For now, keep it...

Take some emory cloth and dip it in oil. Use that to take off the rust. Once your done lightly coat the cams with oil or wd40 and then wrap them with seran wrap to prevent future rust.

Hahahahaha never really thought about it until you just mentioned it.

Thanks for the input guys. Looks as if I will not be running their coolant in my new build. They made it seem like it was a pour and go kind of deal.

I wonder if using a different temp thermostat or changing when the fans came on would fix his issue Jon91TSi. But I guess they were just really good salesmen! Haha they had me sold but I definitely wouldn't use it unless I heard some positive results on our vehicles specifically.

So yesterday at school this Evan's company decided to come in and present their new product to us....Waterless Coolant. At first I thought it was going to be dumb but this stuff is really freaking cool! By the way I'm not advertising their product.... Just looking for opinions.Boiling temp...

Do it right..... Get a new starter plate.

To flush you fill up the reservoir, and leave cap open. Leave the return hose OFF and drain into a bucket. Turn the wheel to the right, check/fill fluid. Turn to the left, check/fill fluid. Repeat that a few times. Once you got clean fluid coming out, turn the engine off. Reconnect the return...

rtrocket59 submitted a new DSM Profile :Steve's TalonRead more about this vehicle here...

I also would like to do this. Except I want to just have both fans run off the thermo switch since I Dont have ac.

Is it the hard line on the rack? Or is it the flexible pressure/ return line?

It is a possibility you didn't install it correctly. Inspect the seal that appears to be leaking. Lightly lubricate the seal and install the torque converter again And make sure it's in all the way. If it still leaks then I would suspect the bad seal. If there was a lot of downtime between the...

Inspect the flex plate teeth and starter drive gear teeth for signs of wear. If they check out then test the resistance of the starter. Could be a sign that your starter solenoid is starting to go bad.

Top picks are usually the mitsu atf +4, redline or b&m trickshift. 80w90 is what you use in a manual trans and I would NOT suggest using that.

A digital multi meter is your best friend in one of these situations. Test for voltage in the starter circuit and see where you last had 12v. That's where your issue is. If it's at the starter relay than yes, it is possible you wired it backwards. Best of luck.

I believe that's normal. As the clutch wears, the fingers will come out more to compensate for the wear. That is probably what you're used to seeing... The ones already compensated for wear.

Your master cylinder can possibly have an internal leak. Check inside and feel the carpet by the clutch pedal, when the master cylinder leaks it'll usually dump out fluid there. If your reservoir level is the same, I would suspect an internal leak. Good luck.

A good majority of clutch issues are because of adjustment. Check and see if you can push in on the fork at all, if not adjustment is needed. The reason why your car is jumping is because the clutch is engaged when its not supposed to be. I'm with gofer on this one, check your adjustment.

A few months back I started my talon build, one of the mods I'm adding is a spark tech COP. I believe I wired the COP to the triangle connector with a 1423 firing order. Since than, I have read that with a non 95/96 CAS and with ecmlink v3, that the order is different than 1423 (I've heard like...

Will I need a specific file for this or can I just use a normal needle file? I'm using a 94 mm eagle forged crank, Manley rods and pistons with ARP studs. What is a rod bolt stretch gauge used for? Will I need a degree wheel as well for timing or primer/pressurizer? I'll be using AEM cam gears...