For sale: 1997 eagle talon tsi awd (90,050 miles)Asking: $8000I will continue to add stuff as I think about it.Bought from a friend last year, selling to buy a house. Car is garage kept. I am including all information that I know about. Previous owner ran a 9.2 @151 on a 2.3 with larger...

I will also give this a try today! I never thought about it but it makes a lot of sense. I ran the formula from ecmlink and jeffgst for setting up global with e85, but you're right, i keep thinking its a mechanical problem

I'll check into it tomorrow, only thing that would be weird compared to your situation is that my car drives actually really well, building boost is very smooth and builds quick, just as soon as I get above 4k rpms it's sits on its face with how lean it gets

My first thought was that my fuel pressure wasn't rising the 1:1 with boost so I swapped out the afpr with a known good one and the issue still occurs. Idle is 14.6-14.9 generally, and cruise fluctuates between 14-15 depending on the condition, but it is also very smooth. The WoT pull is only a...

I just bought another dsm a few months ago and I have been fixing mistakes the entire time. I am having a huge issue with the car since I've swapped to e85 and went to SD. I posted a log of a short pull, but when I get to about ~4k rpms it goes lean instantly like I don't have fuel and when I...

So i did my limiter test, i didnt turn off the two step because my antilag is setup for a 7k launch, but i did the test and after like 2-3 seconds or so at 7k the car moved a tiny bit, probably like half an inch or so. I checked under the dash and the bolt for the master was backed off a little...

Ill try to rev limiter test, i dont think the clutch is dragging but its worth the 10 second test lol

I just installed a ptt twin disk on a 2g awd and now when I first start it up it will idle up to temp, but after I take it out in the road it wants to cut-off when I come up to a light. I try to leave it in gear up until im about to stop but when I throw in the clutch it dies. I can start it...

Alright guys, so I bought a ptt twin disk and the stock flywheel bolts are too long. Ive read up and heard people are using the 7 bolt flexplate bolts because they are shorter, but I didnt know what anybody else thought or has had success with. I cant seem to find anything about the bolt length...

I got a temp sensor from zeitronix and I can't seem to find an -AN fitting that accepts the depth of this sensor. I am trying to use it for my trans temp to run it into my zt-2 wideband display instead of buying another gauge for my car. I was told that in order for it to read properly it needs...

UPDATE: Took the battery to get tested at the store and was at a 0% charge... so they are making me test charge it again before they will replace it, last time i did a 24 hour trickle charge it only held to 25% and died in like a week, so battery is definitely bad.Does anybody know if...

So since I did a rewire I have not been able to get my dash lights to work properly. I have tested a lot of different problems and eliminated quite a few. To start, on my dash my speedo/tach/water temp gauges all work and the backlights work as well when i turn my lights on. My turn signals do...

no warning lights period. I am thinking its a ground. still looking! Ive got ecmlink v3 and can still tune the ecu, idk if it could still be messed up but it worked perfectly fine last year and sat all winter.

Just so its said, I searched the forums before posting and I couldnt get anything to come up.So i did a rewire over the winter as well as swapping dashes out. My issue is when I start the car no warning lights come on before the motor cranks over. I thought it was the dimmer switch but I...

Sorry about my terrible explanation, I tried to explain the process of replacing the pcv valve with a nipple or -an and run both vc lines to a breather/catch and messed up jumbling both ways together. I was at work and typing fast on my phone haha

Are you using a stock maf? Where the return on the intake comes after the maf. A catch can replaces a pcv in a way. You run a hose from the breather line on the valve cover to the catch can, and then from the catch can either to where the pcv valve is or to the intake mani. The vacuum pulls the...

a safe yet powerful tune on 93 would be between 11.1:1 - 11.4:1. Any richer and you'll start getting rich knock at higher rpms, any leaner and you'll start heating the motor up and destroying it. Also you should have a solid base tune and cruise tune before trying to tune your wot.

Run the wg and BoV to a T that goes to the mani, and then you can run the boost gauge/map sensor on a T as well, and then the fpr to the last one. That's what I would do on your setup

You basically are getting rid of the pcv vacuum line when you use a catch can with a breather on it

I honestly am not sure, I didn't have a flex plate on at the time, but I would assume you probably need to take the flex plate off. I'm not 100% on that though

If you buried the water temp a few times the head is most likely warped and just tightening the bolts won't fix the problem

yeah, i didnt know you were open to atmosphere. Thats the problem. Ecu is seeing the wrong amount of airflow and its screwing with the fuel maps

Check the pcv valve to make sure the hose isn't torn open. That causes a lot of idle surges if that vacuum line is cut openAlso are you running a larger than stock fuel system (injectors or pump)?

You might also need to play with the global and deadtimes in ecmlink. Dave and Tom wrote that chart up as something to just give recommendations, but you would still need to play around to get your exact values since your injector flow rate will most likely be slighty different

Did you ever bury the water temp gauge? If you did it more than once you'll most likely need to go ahead and have the head milled

When I put mine in, it literally took 10 seconds. I put the wood over top of it and tapped it in. Some people like to fill the hole with grease and have the pilot bushing go in easier pushing all the remains out

If you plan on buying any injectors larger than stock you are going to need a way to compensate for it, youll need to tune. Are you planning on building a motor? imo your in for a rough time running nitrous on a 420a, but i also have never worked on a talon with a 420a

I looked at your profile and it doesn't look like you have a wideband o2. Its pretty difficult to tune with ecmlink without a wideband. If you do have a wideband or plan on one in the near future, you can simulate the front o2 sensor in ecmlink and see if that can fix your "dead" front o2 sensor

Ecmlink is only going to connect to an ecmlink chip installed on an eprom ecu via the OBDII port under the dash on the drivers side. you can only tune and datalog with ecmlink when its connected to the ecmlink chip (v2,v3, etc.)

The pilot bushing is what is holding the converter centered. It is literally in the center of crank where the bolts hold the flexplate on

Driveshaft is the same, depends on what kind of rear end is with your auto trans to decide if you need the LSD or non LSD rear axles. I definitely recommend a shiftbox over the tcu. Definitely no hate for going auto. I was auto, swapped to 5 speed, and just swapped back to auto for this season...

sounds like you were having a valve body problem not shifting, and chunks are pointing towards new tranny unless you wanna do a complete rebuild man

Just need some clamps and some rags, the tool makes it nice but not necessaryhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/273973-pictorial-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

If it won't go into overdrive, you probably burnt up the end clutches at some point. I would start with taking a look at the end clutches, easy to take out, easy replacement

If you upgrade your fuel setup then you would need the maft to tune for it. But I would wait for a tuning system, I don't think the maft is that reliable of a tune

Yes, you absolutely need a wideband, otherwise there isnt really any other data to tune with. You need to move up to ecmlink as well. It's expensive but saves time and money later. And since you have a stock pump with stock injectors, why not use a stock maf and not have to worry about tuning...

Yeah but straight up you get what you pay for. That's why yeah knockoffs are a cheaper substitute, but when you buy the real product you can rely on it and can expect new products in the future, without new products the knockoff companies have nothing to knockoff lol

Did you make sure to install the spacer for the power steering bracket? It goes behind the PS bracket on the block

Already stated but just agreeing, and I know what mine would have done. I ran a b16g on 21psi last year, ran low 13s on 10.6v. If my alt and battery problem were fixed, I would have been mid 12s for sure. And that was with fic 650s, Wally 255 (no afpr) and dsmlink on a worn out 6 bolt lol

I was going to add another place to check. Have you ever taken the exhaust manifold off or messed with the studs? The bottom center stud has an oil port going through it, if its not completely sealed, it's going to leak oil on the front of the motor

e85 flows about 30% more fuel which is why you need a much larger fuel setup. As stated you need upgraded springs for the bigger cams, and the bottom end can handle 500whp but probably not for long (really depends on how you drive) Im going to be running a pte 6266 this year on e85, but my fuel...

No vac line on the actuator is "no" boost control. You would definitely over spool the turbo. Now my first recommendation would be to learn how to tune with the maft, if he didnt realize he didnt even have a vac line on the actuator he probably didnt know how to tune the maft. Do you know what...

detonation = knock. did you install the fmic and the exhaust after you got the car? or were they installed after you got the car? you might be running too lean if you havent adjusted the maft for the difference in airflow

Are you tuning your fuel maps? And what kind of mods are you running?

Here is the shiftbox I've got, they also have several different ones to choose from if you don't want to spend as much moneyhttp://forcedfour.com/shiftbox_pgm.htmMy friend used this box all season last year and I just installed mine not too long ago.Also this does the "kiggly mod" just...

Im pretty sure the only bracket that should stop the head from coming off should be the PS mount on the block. That was the only thing stopping mine when I pulled the head the first time since I left the exhaust mani on

Yeah not burping the system could also be the problem, but from the sound of it, it's just not torquing the head bolts. Like others said, I would get new bolts and you might have to mill the head if you got the motor too hot

You dont have to pull out the dash to check for wet floor spots, you can pull back the carpet or even just feeling up underneath the dash you could see if its wet. But the majority of my coolant was leaking on the outside of the firewall, which was why I couldnt find any build up in the engine...

I was having coolant problems before I pulled my motor for the end of last season. I was having similar problems where I was loosing coolant, wasn't mixing with oil, wouldnt overheat while idling, but after driving for a little bit it would start to over heat. My problem was a leak at the...

There will definitely be bent valves. And hopefully there isnt any bottom end damage but there most likely will be if all the rocker arms were all over the head. I knew a guy who thought he had the motor in time and tried to start the car and bent almost all the valves just trying to crank and...