Does anyone happen to know approximately how much a 1g auto transmission weighs with the torque converter still bolted to it? And how much for the transfer case?

Looks like a lot of work but not a bad deal. Check turbos to see if they are authentic or MHI. That is a huge value difference.

any head work? probably want cams, springs and retainers and probably some 3g lifters. Also, a SMIM would help as well as slightly porting the head

you have a pm sir

Where did you hear that from?

The hx35 will spool at 4-4500. I cant remember but yes it is good past 450. 500-550 range to be exact.

My hx40 made 615whp. 37psi. But you also need a TON of supporting mods. If you have some money your willing to part with and dont care if you spool at 5k, go for it.

I meant 20g. If you have a little more money than the SP T-28 is exactly what I would recommend. They build full boost by 3k and are good for UP TO mid-low 11's

A good replacement would be a 20g if you want to go with another internally gated turbo that can support some decent power.

^ what he said. Go to auto zone or any close parts shops and they can test all of your ignition system for you. Well, for the most part.

Make sure that the shop FOR SURE machines the head as well as the block if it was warped due to the over heating. If your car over heated like that and you kept driving it, you most likely warped the head and block.

I would assume .040 over then. That is the biggest you can go and be relatively safe/be able to find parts for it. I would ask, that will make us helping you and figuring out what modifications will benefit you the most.

I have SUPR SLO and the amount of people who try to race is actually pretty annoying.

Good find! Im sure that will help a lot of people down the road

Im sitting around 550 at 30psi on my HX40. A lot has to be done. I am actually parting my car out so feel free to check out the mods I have and let me know if you need anything. build 1g part out HX40 - DSM Classifieds

it wouldn't suddenly change anything if it ran great before. Check the fuel filter and if you can the pump. you can run a pretty simple test on the pump by taking it out, hooking it to a 12v battery while you dip it in water to see if it is functioning. The pump will or should squirt water...

did you check the wire resistance? it should be 4k/ft of wire. dont be a parts replacer, be a mechanic! and the exhaust shouldn't make a huge difference. I say check the injectors first

^ I totally spaced this. If you took all the "honeycombs" out this would car to run like crap. You need some in there to straighten the air. I would see if you can't get your hands on another maf and see if that doesnt help or check the solenoids and make sure nothing leaked on the ecm.

Check the coil packs resistance. Should be ~16k ohms/plug if I am not mistaken.

if your wastegate is shut though, watch the gauge EXTREMELY careful to make sure it doesnt go around. Thats how I blew my headgasket. Boost controller fell off and 50psi on a HX40 with 1050cc injectors is never pretty. Felt like God but I'm lucky I didnt blow the whole engine up.

^ this. That is why I asked if the maf was calibrated

if your not looking to run more than 20psi than yes that will be fine

Add more fuel if you have Link and the injector/pump power to do so. Also, like the other guys said check the injectors.

Good, 5 speed or auto?

with a 14b it would be difficult. If you want to go internally gated I would suggest a 16, 18 or 20g. Fast spool and over 300hp potential. Also, go e85. I love not having knock!

I believe it runs to a ignition relay but could be wrong

Your stock boost gauge tells you estimated boost. Not accurate at all. Get a 30-30 boost gauge and see what it is running. After that tell us what is going on and we can help you track the problem down. It is hard to get an idea of what could be wrong at this point (too many things it could be)

when the clutch is starting to engage or when your in the gear? what rpm? can you even drive it at all or does it instantly die once in gear?

Like the saying goes, "how fast can you afford to go". If you half a** it, you will not get very far. Just make sure when you are modding you do all the supporting mods, electronics and you dont just rig everything together to "just work". Make sure its put together properly.

you want it to look fast or be fast?

Really? thats peculiar. you are POSITIVE it is the brakes and cant be tires rubbing or anything? And I would check the calipers ASAP. If one goes you can lose all fluid completely when you start to brake and you will not have brakes.

either way will be similar. if you are looking to mod heavier later down the road, weld the flapper shut, get an exhaust manifold with a wastegate flange welded onto it and get a dumptube/recirculating pipe.

Welcome. Another huge thing about modding a car is making sure all the maintenance is up to date and you continue to practice proper maintenance. One huge reason dsms have the bad name they do

If you don't run an external gate, you will need an internal one. If you don't want the obnoxious sound of the exteernal gate, then run a recirculated pipe from the external wastegate to the downpipe ( will need someone to weld that on too the downpipe for you). Op I have some parts you may be...

Welcome! What are your goals for the car?

Because racecar

I find my external wg really annoying. I would love to have a recirculated one. Op, it will sound awesome for a while but does get annoying

Not timing. I would do a boost leak/leak down test and look for cracked or torn vacuum lines. If it was a vacuum leak you would have an abnormally high idle and it would feel a lot slower than it should be.

Dsmlink v3 is a very easy program to learn and will greatly benefit you and your vehicle. I would suggest getting it 100%

Pull off the wheels and take the caliper off and look for any leaking fluid, brake fluid or water. If you find brake fluid, I wuld recommend rebuilding the caliper as the boot inside may be bad

Good to hear. A lot of people will meet the seller at an auto parts store to see if they can run the codes

Never need to go oem. Love no emission testing

Do you have link/wideband? If so what are your afr's at 2500+?

The best way to do it in my opinion is to weld the internal wastegate swiingarm shut and weld a flange onto your exhaust manifold. Then get a tial external wastegate and run a dumptube

What is "basic exhaust"? Stock, 2" 3" etc...I have 1050cc injectors and a holset hx40 and I can run 30psi at 74% idc. You should be fine with your set up at any amount of boost on that turbo with a good tune. Check your idc when you do some logs and post a log.

I would consider getting dsmlink (and wideband) before doing the fuel mods, it will help the car idle better and its a good investment, because you WILL use it as long as you have a dsm.

Also do you see this sputter under heavier loads? Does it do it under light loads (downhill)

Is your maf calibrated? If not, that could be inaccurate. Alsso, it sounds like you have a good enough set up to run e85. I would suggest that route if you can.

You do not need the stock ops to have the car run. I would start cchecking fuses. Also, does it cllick, can you hear the fuel pump whine when you turn the car to "on"?

Every wednesday a bunch of people meet at sonic (186th and center) or DQ (142 and center) alternating weeks. Tonight everyone is going to be at DQ at around 7pm. Next week, sonic and so on and so forth. Hope to see you there