Last of the parts from my getting out of game, that nobody seems to want.All DSM related, if not universal, then for 1gb 1992 6/4 combo Laser AWD. I'd like $150, but any reasonable offer would work, rather it go to a enthusiast than rot in a dump. Local pickup only. If you really want it...

All the big stuff is gone, last call for the stuff I keep tripping over. Final bump before the dump.

BOV sold.

Bump almost all gone. Someone local make an offer the rest :) Take what you want sell/trash the rest. The trash can is starting to look promising.

Added more details about AN fittings and misc electronics stash. C'mon someone relieve me of all this stuff :)In about a month or so it will all go to the dump.

Sold/removed more stuff = lower the take it all price. AN fittings alone probably cover that price.

Sold/deleted some stuff. Dropped the take everything price. Bump.

Prices drop bump. PM for a phone #.

All the good stuff seems to be gone. Last call $150 takes everything remaining. Ebay links to stuff/groups that are all packaged up and ready to ship. Shipping is included in these listings. Might be flexible on price if picked up or bought outside of ebay.Or make an offer to pick...

Sold

I did not.I used a block tester that checks the coolant for combustion gas, so the block wasn't cracked/leaking. I also suspect that the oem headgasket was fine (never took the head off). Could have had cylinder to cylinder leakage.I never got around to a leak down (I don't think I did)...

Good to know. I was under the impression that they get mangled easily on removal.

I would leave them on the car. Mask off the areas around the car. Cut the loose rubber off/blend it, rough up everything that remains, and spray. I have black spray dip ready to go. Just need to stop procrastinating.

I had the 20g on a 2.0, I was told it should be similar if not slightly less powerful than the FP green. So I got the HTA red on a 2.0, but now its on a 2.3. With the 2.0, you have and the head work, you should be able to bump your rev limit back. I imagine you would still have 1k+ of usable...

I can find oem style knock offs of about every other clip besides these. Any ones in black that work? Trying to avoid parts stores since they tend come in small, relatively expensive, variety packs. But my ebay/etc. searches are leading me to inevitable parts store raid...Black preferred...

Is there any point to this? I am under the impression that my stock 6 bolt IM is the best option if I want to keep revs relatively low/normal/safe. I have a ported head, hks272, 2.3l 6bolt with an FP red on e85.If I slap a magnus cast IM on I assume that will move my powerband to the right...

Anyone happen to have one laying around and can measure the holes?I am thinking about using studs to make removal/install easier, and the holes are much bigger than 6mm bolts, barely smaller than the head. I found these which should to quite well. Just wanted to be sure they would fit...

I want straight for a mhi 20g I was trying to avoid the inevitable upgrade after getting a 16g. I was initially disappointed by the "slower spool", but the top end was the tatas. Then I went FP red (hta76). Again, the spool delay was a small shock, but that top end!! Then I went over to a...

My cold starts always take a little longer. Usually it is noticeably but slightly longer in below 50* in the morning. Then it gets pretty bad on 30* or lower days. Once it fires, its fine. And warm starts don't care about temperature. You may have an issue elsewhere or in the tune if you...

Im over the magic 25 years insurance dip. I still split the bill with my family, but according to Geico, my laser is ~$260/half year of the total bill. Maybe its the 2g Fast and Furious tax?

I am facing the same fuel decisions... You will be ok with oem fuel lines (as far as size is concerned). I will be going with 2150s (easier idle, room for growth). Still weighing my options on which fuel pump.

Any reputable brands should be just fine. I am over 500hp on the FP red and e85. I would ditch the meth idea, especially since you will likely already be running a flex fuel map (using both fuel/timing tables) so you wont be able to run a meth map. Just run lower boost when on 93oct. You...

I noticed you are using a 90 degree hose end on the compressor housing. If it is a swivel end, the seal on the 90 degree swivel fitting may deteriorate with the heat. It wont cause a problem until you remove and replace it. This happened to me on my an coolant lines connected to the CHRA. I...

WOW. I did not think to check the fuse that the starter is on... Does attempting to start in gear blow a fuse?Apparently it does. Damn I feel like an idiot. Anyone else done this so I don't have to feel so bad?

It made a single click sound when I tried to start. I'll definitely check the cables first.

I hope it's something like that. I'm going to pull it first, so I can test before buying.

Had a bad experience with a parts store starter on another platform... The pickings are pretty slim, here's what I am looking at locally, and if none are any good, Which ones from rock auto are worth the wait?My starter is absolutely dead. Started it in gear... Doh! Didn't work after that...

To him. How many of "him" are out there buying these things. If anything, the DSM market is dying off. It is dying off with the vendors that produce quality parts for us. I guess as long as china puts cheap copies on ebay, someone might pay for the short term thrill.I am mad enough that...

Update... Took a risk based on the frequent advice that appearantly "only a track car" needs the oil heat exchanger. By the time my engine is warm oil temps begin to budge off of the minimum (forget what that is, around 100 degrees?) By the time I drive 5 minutes, I am close to 150+ degrees F...

So when I did my dyno... 25PSI is all I could get out of my setup, before fuel started falling off (VE table started compensating) so we stopped there. I was under the impression that AEM (AEM 320 in particular) was one of the more "accurately advertised" fuel pumps. I am having a difficult...

I am running PTFE lines, fuel lab fuel filter, FIC fuel rail (andonized inside). Overkill maybe, but it is pretty, and makes the fuel system more modular. I have had no issues yet. I do pull injectors and clean/wipe them off. Or just run a full tank of 93oct every once in a while.I do not...

Been waiting way too long for this. Props to Dave Katz at EFI specialties. DynoCom dyno.466/420 on 93oct ~23psi522/470 on E85 ~25psiRan out of injector (FIC Blue Max 1250, 85% IDC) and fuel pump AEM320. Still has plenty left.Gonna take it to ~35psi and whatever HP that gets me. Some...

GSLENK updated 1992 Plymouth Laser RS AWDView updates to this DSM profile...

Could you elaborate on the "both sides" part? Sorry, my imagination is not following. (back sides of pads somewhere?)

T-bolt clamps and brake cleaning the coupler+inlet work much better than worm gear clamps. Up to the 40psi I test at. On a 3.25" turbo inlet, that's about 3 times the clamping force needed in comparison (double the pressure, ~1.5x the "surface area" against the seal aka circumference)

Slow cranking sounds like a dying battery. Voltage is not enough to determine battery health. Sure, if it wont charge up past 8 volts and stay there, its definitely bad. Even a bad battery can show/hold 12+ volts. Letting a battery sit or discharge alot will accelerate this dying process.I...

Yup. I'm illiterate. For some reason I though I read "shave 5mm off of the knuckle mounting tabs" And I thought "wow, what a PITA"Thanks for clearing up both points!

1) Hub-centric rotor spacer to center the rotor on your DSM hub So it appears that the kit at least hub centers the rotor. There may or may not be any of the hub left to center the wheel... So your point stands. In the picture, it appears not much of any of the wheel centering ability is left...

Forced Performance frame that came with my turbo worked well. Covers "historic" on my tag.

Update on my lines... Teflon coolant lines work just fine, I could even swap them out when I went from a 20g to FP red. (I think they had at least a year or 2 of daily driving on them ZERO leaks.Then just a month ago, I swapped engines, and took the lines off, put the lines back on, and...

That does not appear to be a turbo car.The maf measures how much air is entering the turbo system, which is how much air is entering the engine in a leak free setup. You do not want two MAFs, or two sources of air especially if one is unmeasured.The ECU or whatever the resulting hackjob...

I recently did this job for the first time. And setting tension was a major voodoo magic PITA. After about 30+ attempts, I was finally happy. Most of those attempts failed the gap spec immediately, or before the 6 rotations was over. A few made it after the 6 rotations, but not after 15...

GSLENK updated 1992 Plymouth Laser RS AWDView updates to this DSM profile...

I deleted it. Now I am going to look into a sandwich adapter or just go 1990 ofh. Haven't decided yet. On the up side, my hogged out ofh has 30psi on the first stable idle cold start of the rebuilt engine.If oil pressure stays in line, I will probably opt for the sandwich adapter route.

I hope that's just a side effect of sitting so long and never being ran (rings never seated). I got the engine installed, spent a LOT of time priming the oil system. It started right up on the first try. Just in time for me to go back on vacation for a few more weeks. when I get back again...

The most useful "specialty tool" is a big/long flathead screwdriver with a square cross section on the rod. ram the screw driver up in between the trans and the axle cup then use a wrench that fits (adjustable) to give a quick powerful twist and they pop out almost every time. It's much easier...

Exactly. You don't need a lot for those things to get super stuck. I had to get them real hot with propane to break them loose when I originally took it apart after the clutch swap I did 2 years ago. I just put a few dabs on one and roll the threads with another till there is a light coat on...

I know this is a really old thread, but to update...My old crank had one, I bought a rebuild engine without the pin. No local dealers had the part and I cannot wait to install the engine. I found the following chart: 8.7313mm .34375" 11/32" 8.8mm .3465"...

I haven't spent much time looking into the aftermarket sandwich route. But from what I gather, there needs to be some sort of bypass, and by the time you add all that up, it exceeds the cost of a new 90 OFH. Any leads on a good one so I can compare price options?Ill try cleaning it out. If...

I am replacing an engine and need some advice on what to do about the OEM oil cooler sandwich plate thing. I would love to delete it (cut off thread portion of the ofh/oil filter bolt) and be done with it. (90's style housing, no cooling).My engine threw a rod, and there were metal chunks of...