Thanks, I ended up re entering them and they came up.

yes

Nope, not showing there.

Got a new pc and installed ecmlink, firmware and everything is up to date, but some of the values aren't showing up like lc1wb, omni4Bar, gmiat......Are these removed?

My boost is at its lowest level unless I change the wg springs which is a pain in the ass. Starting to hate this car. With e85 it shouldn't knock at 9*. Guess I'll have to try lowering it.

Keep getting this knock around the same rpm range!!! Need help bad.

That's what I want to say, just not sure.

Starting to retune my car and I did a pull and let out because of knock light, turn around and did the pull again on same road with no changes and no knock? Can someone take a look at this log and tell me are you seeing something changing that would cause that? Have had this problem any times...

Thanks bro. Think I'm just gonna keep my setup and add a 55 shot.

How do I check to see if it's rising 1:1?

The liquid in the gage has leak out and the pressure drops instantly when I shut the car off. It holds the correct psi tho. Could the gage be the problem or AFPR? I took it apart and the diaphragm is fine.

Yes now that you say that, I remember speaking with you. I finally got it hold boost til 8500 rpm with no drop. I pretty much parked the dsm and I'm getting the itch again. My goal was 500whp and I'm pretty sure I was close on my last tune but didn't get finished. Stacy and I were retuning then...

None in particular, but .70 a/r.

I run 32 psi. Last dyno I maxed out my fuel system, but still hit 483 whp. Fuel system has been upgraded and returned but I haven't hit the dyno.

I'm running the Hx35/bep .55 setup now and I'm considering a hx40. Before I switch I was wondering thoughts on the hx35 in t3 form vs the hx40 in bep. 55 housing.

Welp heard from him once in the past few months, now seems his email isn't working. Did he retire midway into my tune lol?

He contacted me.

We were in the middle of tuning and I haven't heard from him since early June.

Will do. Yea he's always gotten back to be asap over the years.

I still haven't heard from him.

I'm in Cornelius, about 20 miles northeast of Charlotte.

I've paid and we were in the middle of tuning. Can't even get a response. That's not like him, but at least let me know something. Been a few weeks and I've emailed quite a few times.

ok, thanks....I may just have to try it if I run low. I brought a 5 gallon jug with me and if I can make it through the week and have enough I may just add some 93 until I cross back to SC and refill with E-85.

I've googled and called seems like every station in a 50 mile radius. I've tried this store also. Most stores that are listed says they don't sell it anymore.

The Cas is set at 5* and the fuel pressure is base, and was also base on pump so you think it would still need to be dialed back?

Had a out the blue job change and I can't get a hold of My1GDSM ( said something about a network crash or something). We have been retuning on E-85 and I can't find it anywhere in the Charlotte area. Question is, will I be safe to go back to 93 on the E-85 tune as long as I don't get on it? If...

No pressure, so I pulled the pump and there was a bad connection where I wired in the wally 450.

Ok car cut off on me today and before it cut off it went all the way lean on my wb. Had someone try to crank it while I looked at the afpr and it wasn't reading anything. So I expected fuel pump, BUT I can hear it cut on when I activate it in link and it will try to start with and without it...

Like uncommon things.

Is there anything related to the cluster that can cause it not to work besides fuses?

Got a 1993 AWD Talon and my gage cluster stopped working. I can still read values thew link, but nothing works on the dash besides speed and odometer. I did notice it went out after giving a jump so I checked every fuse in the car. Could be coincidence that it stopped working after that, just...

I have a Jacks 2.1 awd tranny that just started to make a popping or clicking sound (almost like cv joints), but it only does it in 1st gear. Goes in all gears flawless as usual. Had it put on a lift today to assure it was coming from the tranny. What problems I'm I looking at here?

Yes, I found the module on the passenger side kick panel(got lucky the panels were missing at the junkyard) and yes I disconnected the actuators one at a time. Thanks for the manual tho.Thats something I haven't checked. Is that something my car has tho, because there is no button to push to...

Well I tried door lock relay, door control module and both actuators all one by one and problem still exist. I also checked some 1gs at the junkyard and that wire in the pics wasn't there. I also checked by the fuse box to see if those wires were there and didn't see any so I still have no clue...

Id like to replace that module and relay since I can get them from a junk yard cheap before I try to track down a wiring problem. Is there a module on drive and passanger side and I didn't see that module inside the door. Oh I see where so said is located.

The thing that moves the mirror isn't working. Everything else is fine. If I hold the lock in place the other side just keeps going back and forth. It eventually stops on its own, but I can reach over and do it myself to make it stop. What does the door lock module look like?

My power locks locks and unlocks back and forth for a while before they stop. I changed both driver side and passenger side actuators and still same problem. I noticed some wires inside the door cut today and wonder what they went to? Here is pics of where they're located (inside door running to...

Ended up calling fuelab to get there input and they recommend the 6 micron fiberglass one for post fuel pump useage, the smaller the # the better it filters against biggger particles. That's includes all types of fuel. Only con vs the stainless post fuel pump he gave was its not clean/reusable.

Have you heard anything about the fiberglass one by chance?

40 micron stainless vs 6 micron fiberglass for E-85, which is better?

Price is pretty steep and yea you could've took better routes, but if no one has run one from AZ then I wouldn't just assume its junk right off the bat.

Will do. What else to check for because its a pain taking that thing out.

I changed out my 255 to 450 today and I had about 3/4 tank of gas now its showing less than 1/4 tank. Guess I'll pull it back out, but what do I check for? This is a 1g awd if it matters.

1450s now and wally 450 on the way. Retuning and if I get some seat time 10s should be in site. 52mm compressor wheel makes it more impressive to me.;)

I'd send it back. It shouldn't have no damage, specially being new.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/331710-garrett-holset-turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html

You will be fine to drive, but not to tune. You still should have your factory wb connected. In my case my factory wb wire is cut and the wb takes the place of the factory one.Now that makes sense lol. I use link to sim the wb. That's why I was thinking I couldn't run without it.

Not sure what you mean by innovate of link.But the o2 sensor will have to be disconnected once I unhook the gage.

My MTX-L wb took a dump on me and I either have to send it off for repair or buy a new one. I'm thinking the car wouldn't run once I take the gage out to send it in for repair so my question is will the car just have to be down with the gage out? It runs now but I can tell the difference. If...

Plus its only a 52mm compressor.