As the years continue to go by, these chassis'are starting to show their weak points.I had a typical saggy door, and came to find the hinge pins and bushings were just fine. The sheet metal and threaded holes were not.I believe from the factory these square threaded holes are tack welded...

I have a BEP .55 housing and a PR o2 housing (External dump) bolted to it I'm thinking on listing if anyone is interested. Ported out the wastegate hole and port matched to a fp mani (which I also could sell). Could save me the time of listing them all separately.I ran it to 28psi on E, made...

Forgot to come back and update.This is going to sound crazy but it ended up being my power windows circuit grounding by the fusebox to the tranny. I realized my windows didn't work, and found the harness worn through and the power windows wire, and one other red wire ripped open and grounding...

Looks like my measurements come out at 56mmx43mm. So I guess only about 1mm off from the image you provided.I'm not worried about out 1mm, that'll buff out..Maybe my gasket is good for t3/t4 or something. Looked super off to me.Thanks for the measurements!Might lay down some contact...

Just ordered a .70 T3 housing for my HX40 from Bullseye and slapped a T3 gasket just to see how the inlet matches up.Am I frickin hallucinating, or is this wildly smaller and offset? I wasn't expecting it to be perfect, but a whole half inch on one side?I'm not sure if I could portmatch this...

From my understanding to cushion drive train harmonics and make for easier shifting. I have a puck style solid hub as well. I just remember John over at TRE preaching about it hard to me when I told him about my 2nd gear block-outs a couple seasons ago. He seemed correct- I bought taller bias...

Potenza g019's They're kinda piss poor anyway.Will be for dry only.Just looking for a little softer sidewall to ease up on my synchros when driving spiritedly on the street.Treadware isn't a huge concern, but there's a reason why I don't drive my m&h's around, yeah know?

So I have a very spirited street/strip drag car. I run 235/60-15 M&H cheaters at the track. I currently have 17 evo wheels with potenzas for street use, and it's miserable when I want to put the pedal down. I'll break all 4 loose, and then get blocked out of my next shift, and I'm sure my...

So a thought here: If the coolant temp sensor, front o2 sensor, tps voltage, baro, iat, vss, ign. timing(cps) all peg to max/min/default values I would assume to check their grounds and see if they share them. I see a majority share pin 92 on the ecu for ground, and a few others are a chassis...

Yeah, I'm not so convinced this is damage, like you said. I scraped a bit of that cracked portion and it looks like a gooey coating of sorts. Flipped the board over and didn't see any damage on the leads.Kinda stumped.

Yeah it's tough to get pictures. There's a tiny brown spot on the cracked surface and it is raised like a pimple. The opposite metal bracket had that spider webby looking corrosion right in front of this spot. And there's a track of fluid from this spot all the way to the corner.You know what...

So I popped the ECU out and I think I identified some damage. Can anyone confirm what this driver chip is? It appears to have popped and spread some juices down and across the board.

Looked back at my log and it looks like it's not just my rpm and speedo, but just about everything shuts off for these brief moments, coolant temp spikes to what i assume is max reading, voltage drops from 14 to 12, ecu seems to lose chunks of .3sec of time.Is it cutting power for brief moments?

Hey guys, brought the car out of winter hibernation and the first drive was rough.Ignition kept cutting out over 3k, and had a hard time keeping up idle. Pretty normal troubleshooting has been done, but I'm posting this now because I noticed something odd:In ecmlink both the rpm and speed...

So one may assume those rear trailing arms are coming back in stock then, eh? :cool::cool:I want them both just so damn bad.My body's tell'n me yesssss. But my wallet... my wallet's tell'n me noooo.

Lots to unpack here bud. First off why don't you get yourself familiar with what a 6bolt swap is so you can determine what is wrong and what is right. Here is a easy to read tech article on it that also explains cas wiring: https://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1gina2g.pdf...

I think the fact you swapped out your cams is just coincidence that this is happening. I'd be looking more into electrical drain- watch your battery voltage as you turn your fans on and figure that out. My guess would be that if you put your old cams in it would still do it. Something else...

Here's a list of things it could be starting with what I'd think would be the most common:1. Iron oxides from the block from the car sitting for a long time 2. Abnormal Cam wear (pop your cam caps off and take a peek for anything weird) 3. Abnormal piston ring/ cylinder wall wear (do a leak...

What you're talking about doing is approaching what most people (who are experienced and have the "feel") would consider improperly maintained or repaired. And that will be their opinion based on experience. There's always going to "look" like there is plenty of friction material left for...

My car used squat HARD and I have a welded center diff so I used to run a little lower pressure up front to keep as much traction as possible up front when the torque shifts to the rear. I never ran lower pressure in the rear. Most rear end parts break from when the car's tractions jumps from...

Sorry, I must have glossed right by #1. You're right the thickness of the surface isn't (necessarily) as important because by the time its worn down to be too thin, the step height would be out of control and irrecoverable. The thicknesses of surface material probably vary from stock to...

What's the minimum safe friction surface thickness the OEM flywheel should have? I couldn't find it in the FSM or googling this site or online. .608-.612 If it's been resurfaced past this point, should I shim the back (crank) side to get it back to the proper distance to the fork/fulcrum so...

For my bias-plys I usually show up at the track with 15 on all four. I'll do a pass to see how they react to the track and the temp of the day then adjust down. I usually end up around 10. As far as front/rear- I find that to be largely more dependent on weight distribution and suspension then a...

I'm curious as to why some "daily driver" clutches never list the clamping force of their pressure plates. "Heavy Duty" pressure plate that is only rated to 320 ft/lbs must feel like pushing on paper in comparison to the heavier clutches out there.Stop worrying, you'll be fine - Guy with a...

You'll know if it is real knock if you add timing or up boost and it gets worse in the same spot respectively. When I run into a small count of knock that pops up, I'll push it a couple degrees or another psi to confirm its real. Without risk, where's the fun? 5500-6000 for an HX40 is real...

Deatschwerks in-tank 200 (255LPH) pump w/ bulkhead fitting and fuel-pickup sock (good n cleaned) Equivalent to Walbro 255 - arguably better design w/ better compatibility with ethanol fuels$80 shipped

Leaky valve guides present themselves more at start-up than anything else (unless its like a hotdog down a hallway). The valve will rest and allow drops of oil to run down past the seal/worn guide into the combustion chamber, thus creating the famous burnt oil and smoke at start up. If its the...

I too enjoy a good quality buzz with my morning coffee *tips fedora*

Well.. that's the fun part. You can: Pull the trans, slap a new clutch plate and a flywheel (WITH proper step height- this is key) and replace pivot ball and clutch fork with new parts, might as well do the TOB as well. OR Pull the trans and properly shim the pivot ball OR Somehow get an...

Get down underneath and look at the sight picture of the fork coming out of the bell housing. It should be biased toward the drivers/slave-cylinder side. See pic:90% of clutch engagement issues are from poor adjustment. If your forks in a good position, then bleed your clutch. Then bleed...

First off, I'd like to say that just tossing in new valves isn't what I'd recommend. (I'd recommend grinding the seat and valve faces with a new bevel and replacing the guides on at least the exhaust side) that being said, I've seen people do it with some sort of success (and some...

I have a stock intake mani (port matched for a larger throttle body) and the same hotside on my HX40, and will agree with Donnie, you're choked up. Mines not as bad because I have oversized valves and a lot of port work on both my head and hotside. There's a definite limit to running stock...

With that much boost pressure and already seeing small counts of knock in your log, your timing isn't going to do a whole lot for you. Track your datalog in your timing sheet and add a couple degrees at a time until you see knock. But remember that's your limit, when you see knock, you adjust...

A wise man once told me: "Maybe."I'm sure there's few guys on here that have and do run over 45psi, but they're the same guys who don't mind spending the weekend changing headgaskets (hell I don't). But at that pressure I wouldn't be worrying about the headgasket as much as I would valve float...

What are your timing adjustments on your cams? My guess is your head setup is restricting the 36 PSI you're trying to throw at it. 480hp at 36psi on an hx40 sounds like restriction to me, you're leaving ALOT on the table. That thing should be pushing damn close to 60Lb/min at that pressure.I'd...

*RAISES THE DEAD*The biggest advantage of a fuel cell is having the ability to run dual in-line fuel pumps in parallel. The stock fuel tank does not have the ability unless you do drop-in a dual hangar. Weight savings is fairly minor. For road racing, a HydraMat fuel pickup is a big advantage...

If it is not making any noise, binding, or wobbling and chewing your timing belt, its fine. The oily look vs dry look is simply how the retailer or manufacture packages the pulley. Seal color is ambiguous but typically idler pulleys are brown and tensioners are blue, but idlers can be either...

You guys still have A/c?Rockauto has a good list of parts:A/C Compressor A/C Compressor & Component Kit A/C Condenser A/C Condenser Fan Assembly A/C Evaporator Core A/C Expansion Valve A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator A/C Refrigerant Hose A/C System O-Rings, Seals, & Gasket Kits A/C System...

Review my PM's before posting any more logs. You're just going to get crucified if you keep posting up logs that are this messy.

Well yeah I'm gonna have to now! At least the next time I switch fuel mixes or something.My tables are pretty spot on, but it still fluctuates from 14.2 - 15.2, which i always assumed was because of the switch points for the o2 sensor. You can get a rock solid 14.7 cruising? Damn I might just...

That only makes sense to me if you plan on not running in closed loop ever. Maybe I'm missing something or overthinking. What's the point of having closedloop functionality at all with SD then?Plus I simulate my narrowband, so now I'm thinking closedloop is completely pointless.

I mean... you definitely can if you want.

Lock it in closedloop with the openloop thesholds -> go drive for 20-30 minutes going up and down hills, on and off the throttle, turns etc etc. (basically get as much data as you can) -> let the car idle for 2 minutes -> stop the log -> stop the car -> run the SDadjust(fuel trim) tool -> smooth...

You can do that to make sure your global injector scaling is correct (hint you can do that on idle as well), but cruise tuning is a closedloop operation. You shouldn't be in openloop ever in cruise to tune it. In fact you should be locking your car in closedloop for entirety of the cruise log by...

If I am on a clear road and a I see a consistent value I don't like, sometimes, yeah. But it's dangerous to be fiddling with a tablet while driving so I'll always recommend just doing a log and scrubbing the timeline to make changes afterwards while parked or the car off, you can achieve the...

I don't even use it that much in link. Unfortunately here in Iowa it can be 45* outside in the morning and 85* in the afternoon. Couple that with big cams, 2150s that arent as friendly to lower injector pulses, and the SDtempweighting factor-- the VE table can start having big jumps between...

Just start over. It sounds like someone handed you a sh*t-sandwich and you're trying to reverse engineer it without knowing the things you need to know.Read through some of the links and get an understanding of how things should be approached and what values to look for.Regardless of...

By "everyone" you mean the 5-6 20 year old kids in Ottumwa who can't tune a radio knob?Sorry, I had to say that. Ya'll down there aren't exactly building a great rep for yourselves in the tuning department. But I digress, just do some simple reading, turn the damn boost down and trust only...

There are HUNDREDS of posts and articles on how to tune. No one is hiding secrets from you.Start here for ECUFlash and evoscan: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-get-a-basic-tune-with-ecuflash.407715/*EDIT* Sorry that's not using evoscan, but here's the link...

Do a MAP Trace on your data so us who don't have evoscan can see it outside of excel docs.EDIT Here's another forum that discusses MAP Tracer if you can't get it to work properly. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ecuflash/443043-evoscan-map-tracer.html