So you have no proof its running hot other than the touch of your hand?
You need actual temp numbers man, you dont have a temp sensor in your hand.
You need another way of checking temp thats more acurate,your hand can tell the difference between 190* and 215*.........
Your link dosent work and your thread title is misleading, i google searched nimbus g2 an came up with a heat shield.Please elaborate, because as of right now this thread makes no sense.
I always liked lip spoilers.The whale tale is a lil over the top. But the M3 style is a great idea. In my opinion would look really good on any 2G.Were all on the same team guys. Bueaty is in the eye of the beholder.
Best way to check a crank angle sensor is with a scope. But if this all happened after you"degreased" your engine I would look for water intrusion in the conectors.
Did you set your base idle. Typically if you need to open the throttle to get an engine running it's a faulty idle speed motor. At least that what it sounds like to me.
It sounds like you need to do more research before you install this "kit".
Boost can be very devastating to an engine if not setup properly,and will ruin an engine in short time. You can't simply buy an eBay turbo kit and expect to be Paul walker in an evening.Why more fuel? Your forcing...
Hot water is the best. Makes your battery terminals look brand new. That's right HOT WATER. Not necessarily a sign of overcharging,all battery's do this after some time.
You need a volt meter to check the alternator. Engine running all loads off charging voltage should be from 13.5 - 14.5V...
I would stay away from anything that's a puck and unsprung. Those style clutches do hell on the drivetrain. And being as your relatively stock you can def use the 2100 or 2600.
Out of curiosity how long did your clutch last and what exactly failed?
Injectors deffinately tick. No need for concern there.As for lifter tick there are a few remedies, from a bottle of Lucas(1 bottle for a v8 engine,half a bottle for a four cylinder,I would do Lucas every other oil change)to 3rd generation litters. From what I've read there's really nothing...
Either your FPR is not adjusted correctly or it's bad. No matter the pressure coming out of the pump the FPR should regulate it. You eliminated a clogged return line as a potential fault, wich would have been my first guess.
I hope you have more than used head studs and a balance shaft eliminator kit to "do it right". And 2 months why so long? And by "taking the head off I hope you ment "taking the engine out".This should help with the leaks. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
Do you mean a intake MANIFOLD? if so, did you leak test it after the install? It's very likely the gasket may be broken. Did you change the gasket with it? And did you clean both matting surfaces before re-installing?
Valve Guide Reconditioning: Engine BuilderThey ream the guide bore to fit a larger or oversized valve guide.
It's only necessary if the oem size guides don't fit properly.
Typically a repair procedure. But not always necessary.
If you had alot of crap in the tank and pump chances are it's in the filter and possibly the rail and injectors. You haven't changed the filter?
Deffinately pull the rail out and make sure none of the injectors are clogged up with rust.
TRE DSM REAR DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE
The viscous axle goes on the drivers side.
I had to replace it with a passenger side when they rebuilt my rear w/the evo3 and 12 plate.
It says at the bottom of the page "* Requires the driver's side axles stub to be replaced with the non-lsd 4-bolt rear...
The wastegate actuator is vacuum operated and should pull toward the vacuum nipple when vacuum is applied to it. The internal wastegate armature that it goes to should swing freely when not connected the actuator.
So it's a 96'w/99 ecu,and a 1g six bolt?First things first. Check and double check any wiring necessary to do the swap. That means if there's any crimp conectors or soldered joints make sure to tug at them to make sure they are all tight.Also make sure to pull on the wires coming out of the...
So the gauge was routed incorrectly? Regardless it now sounds like your in business.
Stock tach or after market.
And your having idle and boost issues?
How is the boost controller routed and are you using a 2g Maf or 1g?
If your boost/vacuum gauge is reading zero at idle, that means you have a vacuum leak or it's installed wrong. That's what the Gauge is for.
Until you rectify THAT issue, I can't help you.
Like I said @ idle you should have 20" of mercury with stock cams. My 272/272's give me 15" of mercury at...
That's great your gonna need it with these cars. I've owned one for 6 years now and it's been constant maitanence.I myself have been a diagnostic tech for the last 10 years and to me a vacuum leak WILL cause ALL of those problems. Check your injector seals. Check your intake gasket.
Best...
Make sure jack the front end up and check for play. Also check your tires to see if a belt slipped and is misaligned. This is usually easy to see with the wheel off the ground and running your hand around the tire.
At idle you should have about 20" of mercury(with stock cams). If your boost gauge reads zero at idle and it's plumbed correctly (manifold vacuum not ported vacuum )
Than you have a boost/vacuum leak.
And yes a vacuum leak right off the intake manifold like a broken or mis-aligned intake...
First thing is make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Insure all your engine and chassis grounds are clean and tight. Make sure the power lead going to the starter is clean and tight. Make sure the signal wire to the starter from the relay is clean and tight.Also check and make...
As long as the used tire isn't dry rotted,bubbled,plugged or patched a used tire isn't the worst thing but I'd never buy a used one. I mean it's the only thing that touches the ground.
You would normally replace tires in pairs OR fours. If the two other tires a pretty decent, buy two now, and...