$400? That's way high. You can probably find a used one on here for sale or even a new one on eBay for way less then that. And I'm not sure on the 4g64, but on the 4g63, it's all of two bolts and a rubber o-ring. Quick and painless to change.

My lower hose was cold after a tstat replacement. Went and bought and OE Exact and the problem went away. Previous tstat was a cheap Stant. ( Junk IMO. )

Problem solved. Junk Stant thermostat was just that, junk. Went to Napa and bought and OE Exact, which I might add looked identical to the OEM unit minus one coil on the spring, and temps are a steady 195 now. Goes to show, at minimum, to buy an OE equivalent thermostat.

Hmmm I haven't been seeing status updates through my link on here. Any who, its been doing around 210 city and 220 highway. Guess I'm not super concerned about it. What's odd though that when I park it, its normally at 209, then it will creep up to 216 even with the fans on. If I give it a quick...

My 95 GST has it. It no worky though due to the wires being corroded away. I need to splice in a new sensor. ^-^

What rpm is your idle at? Mine was at 1100rpm after driving and it tripped the TPS code. I adjusted the BISS 1/4 turn and it put me at a perfect 800rpm all the time.

Leak-down is on my To-Do List now. I tried bleeding it today two ways, w/ the rad cap off and coolant in a funnel while squeezing the hoses, and by doing per the manual recommendations. ( Start car, warm up to tstat temp, rev to 3k 3 times, check coolant level, rinse and repeat. ) Which I will...

So she's still overheating. :/ Dunno what the deal is. Fans are working, coolant lvl is fine with a 50/50 mix, new waterpump, new t-stat. Maybe something has failed? I kept my old OEM tstat that's stuck open a little. About to throw that back in. :/

Welp today I decided to take the overflow and clean it out. Had less then an inch of coolant in it. And the Low Coolant Light would have never told me because the wires were corroded away. It appears that there was Dex-Cool in the system at once. :/ Anywho, I cleaned out the overflow and went...

OK question. Since the radiator cap was bad and holding no pressure, could that have let air into the system? Reason I ask is because the overheating has subsided for the most part and the overflow has less coolant in it. Could the system have burped itself of the air pockets and replaced it...

Ok so I replaced the radiator cap because it wasn't holding pressure at all. Start driving and it's still overheating, and now I can smell coolant slightly, but not when the heat is on? I am so confused lol. I don't think it's leaking through the head-gasket, the exhaust doesn't smell sweet...

As everyone else stated, scrap those Bosch plugs. They are terrible. I had the PO300 on my old car using those. Swapped back to NGK's and the problem went away.

So over the holiday I took my car on a longer then usual trip I was having temperatures spiking around 220 going around 50mph. As soon as I'd leave off the throttle it would drop down to 195 or so. As soon as I get back into the gas though the temperatures rise. Also, the heat is blistering hot...

Koni Yellows, Eibach Pro-Kit, and new upper and lower strut hardware. That will get you the best ride at a somewhat fair price. :)

I'm interested to hear about the T28 performance compared to the T25. I've been wanting to go that route instead of the 14b/16g route.

Probably a stupid question, but I can't see the stock GST exhaust flowing better then the Thermal N/T exhaust. Reason I'm asking is because I can pick up a N/T one for dirt cheap. And I also like dual tips. :) I'll also add that I'm not looking to make big power with this car.

Bosal makes a dual tip catback for the N/T and AWD 2g's. No love for the FWD people though. :( Here's one for the N/T guys:1995 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2WD Non Turbo Dual 3" Tips | eBay

Anyone have Link around the Burgh? I REALLY need to set my IAC. :)

Sorry I didn't get back to this. Got her done and runs awesome now. Timing was two teeth off on the exhaust cam.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, larger side mount intercoolers. The Supra ones are ghetto at best. Functional nonetheless, but ghetto.

So after owning my car for a year, I finally decided to change my timing belt. I come to find out that the exhaust cam was off almost two teeth! I'm surprised the car still ran as well as it did with it like that. And I also found out a timing job was done once before. All the tensioners and...

As far as a filter goes, my favorite bang for buck filter is the Purolator PureOne. You can get them for around $6 and IMO they filter better then a Mobil 1 or K&N filter that are like $15.

Hey Tuners. Looking around for someone local to do a timing job on my GS-T. I don't have the space or resources to do it myself. Anyone know of anyone? :)

That doesn't sound right to me. I have an Auto, but in 3rd I sit at 2500rpm and O/D I'm at 2200rpm at 55mph.

225/45 on my 2GA. Very little room left at stock height. Maybe 1/4" from hitting the control arms.

Update. Previous post turned out to be nothing but coincidence. Replaced the thermostat and now I'm at a toasty 200-205. The old one was stuck open.

Small update on this. I haven't changed the thermostat yet. However, I adjusted my TPS. It was set at 3% and now it is at 0% like it should be. Ever since I've adjusted it, the car has warmed up fine and held temperature. So question being, can the TPS affect the way the car warms and cools?

Since I finally picked up another ScanGaugeII, which I must say is a nice little tool, I've been observing quite a few things on my car, temperature being one of them. The car warms up fairly quick, but as soon as I start driving the process moves at a snails pace. If I'm at a light the car will...

I say too much it wrong with the Spyder, plus its been beat on. That sounds like a headache for that price. For just a little more, you can get a stock, unmolested GSX. I'd go with a stock car all day over a modded one that's been beat on.

Polk Audio are very nice as well. Very crisp sound.

I just took off a set of Hankook V12 Evo's because it was getting cold, and they run like poop when its cold. They become very bumpy and non responsive. They are strictly a warmer weather/summer tire. My winter tires are Kumho 4X's. They're an all season and they handle great in all conditions...

Best bang for buck would be a ported 2G Manifold or a EvoIII manifold. A FP manifold is more for maximum power and your bottom end will suffer a tad bit under normal driving conditions.

I don't mean to bash in anyway, but after reading this thread, I smell a troll...

1) Yes 2) Yes 3) No.No I'm not confusing the sound. The rpms flutter without change in the throttle.No, no release of throttle. Hard to get the bov to woosh with an Auto too lol. But it was def. The bov. BLT is def. Needed though.No BLT. I'll find out how to test the bov but...

First and foremost, anyone who says hard piping and a 1g bov does nothing needs to stop kidding themselves. I saw more gain with this then my FIPK and Injen intake. Now onto my issue, the car runs fine minus the lumpy and high idle due to installing the hard piping. I still have to readjust a...

While this thread is here, did anyone else have one hell of a time getting both upper pipes in together? ( upper ic pipe and S-shaped TB elbow. ) It's literally forced together.

Single best oil filter out there IMO is the Purolator Pure One. Filters better then a K&N and Mobil 1 filters yet it only costs around $6. Plus I've always had awesome oil pressure with them.

I also have a problem with this. My alignment is dead on in every category, yet when driving down the road it veers to therright. The weird thing is that when you turn the wheel to the right, it doesn't come back to the center. If you turn the wheel left, it comes back to the center, then slowly...

Shiz, autos is where its at IMO. No loss of boost between shifts = win in my book.

My lower pipe fit just fine. I took the intake out to have more room up top. I did have to flip the pipe a couple times to make sure I had it on in the proper orientation.

Any eBay style one will do. However, opt for one that has flanges that connect the down pipe to the header instead of a slip fit. Slip fits normally leak.

Also remember that the door pressure size is for stock size tires ( 215/50/17, 205/55/16, etc... ). Thus why I said 35 front and 33 rear is recommended for 225/45/17. In my case the car rides great, handles well, and takes bumps with ease.

Make sure to take the side mount off when you're changing the piping and give it a good cleaning with Simple Green. You'll be amazed at the muck that comes out of the inter cooler.

According to my system at work it says 35 front and 33 rear for that size. ( Which just so happens to be the tire size and pressures I run. )

Looks like a stock 1g smic to me...

Looks like a generic eBay set to me. They can be had on eBay for less too. I myself have Dejon Tool side mount piping and love it. Perfect fitment. Got all 3 pieces used for $50.

Just like Psycho said, aluminum handles used to be made. I think someone may still have the mold, but I'm not sure.

The cheapest one I'd buy on eBay is the SRS catback. It's true 3", stainless steel, and $199 shipped to your door. Plus quite a few members on here have it and like the sound and fitment of it.

There was a member on ASEClub who had a mold to make aluminum handles. I don't know what happened to the mold but the handles should work for all 95-99 Avenger/Sebring/Eclipse/Talons.

Just straight up pass. Better to find an unmolested one to work on.