i just picked up another 95 gsx... anyone of you guys have a front or rear bumper for a 2g?

The last time he was on here was a week after the above post, must have died....

good info and i am looking for more, i know the thread is ooooollldddd but if the guy has the info.... i found a 95 sonata today, looks just like a 6 bolt but the intake says its a 1.8 not a 2.0... i have two bad 4g63t block and need a good one. will my 2.0 parts swap in??? tia

so i could use the hyundai head to get a bump in compression rather than use 2g pistons :)

gyd23,m saw your car at the shop today, i have a 96 gsx with some mods... like most it doesnt run tho lol. i got it this way and am building a 6 bolt for it... will be teaching a welding class tomorrow at the shop if your want to swing by.

price on shortblock?

i would call jasper and ask them. wouldnt surprise me at all if they (do or did) sell oversize cams (bearing journals) to save scrapping heads....your best option is to get another head.... bummer

sign shops will normally have up to 30 inch wide, i havent seen wider rolls but i know they exist

any paint store can easily show you paint chips with the codes. its rare that you will have two similar colors from a single manufacturer in a single year so its usually pretty easy to find without much effort.

i havent looked at orielly paint in a while, my memory says it was lacquer, at least where i live and dont remember it being nason (good and cheap) look for a name brand acrylic enamel and you should be ok. make sure you use an inline air filter (cheap plastic disposable ones work fine) at the...

nope, colder, specifically the bondo as it will crack easier. even at 30 degrees Fahrenheit, he would have to really try to hurt the plastic bumper.also, solvents generaly dont harm bumpers these days, but the bondo wont be affected by them either...

lol, thats completely different!

my general experience with the ebay stuff is the piping is good and usually fits well, the muffler wont last terribly long tho, the cheap out on the guts and they rust.

for removal, Calan is dead on. make it glow and it will come right out. of course, this is the way to go when you dont want to reuse the sensor.

koni's are as good as it gets

STM | STREET TUNED MOTORSPORTS | DSM | EVO | SUBARU | PERFORMANCE & DYNO TUNING

x2...

no way

so many changes its hard to pinpoint... fpr and maf, and vacuum leaks would be my first looks

no flares, barf. we need your wheel width to tell you how "big" a tire will fit. measure from the inside of the wheel, flat where the bolt holes are to the lip of the wheel and you will have you backspacing.

those are old car alarm left overs. those bare wires could cause you issues if any power is still running through them

stock vs stock is no comparison. double wishbone is more money and the right way to build a front suspension. strut suspensions were originally designed to be a cheap easy room making setup for manufacturers... even modified, a 1g would have a hard time hanging with a stock 2g assuming both cars...

get the teflon liquid paste, it works. orielly/shucks/autozone carries itnot me; Permatex Teflon Pipe Joint Compount - Thread Sealant on eBay!

for water temp, stock is fine you just need to know approx temps for needle position, easy to learn with an ir temp guage.

are you also showing "0" ohms?

you should be measuring in the exact same spot on every piston. that spot should be in the center of the skirt about a 1/4 inch below the oil ring groove. you should not be "measuring" oil clearance as it is not part of the piston

if it said not to lube both bearing halves, i would strongly recommend that you do.

in this order; check wiring replace balast bulb is good....

voltage will affect everything after it drops below 12v. brushes in the alternator are the likely problem since it is intermittent, just cleaning them out will sometimes give you more life.

all four fire every 180 degrees so it doesnt matter.

well, knock causes them. one is telling you you have knock, the other is telling you it is pulling timing because of knock.

that spydering is normally caused by stress, age, uv exposure, or chemical exposure. if it seems to have the strength you need the prime it and paint it. if it looks cracked, you can wet sand with some 400 at this point and repaint. that should do the trick.

you can use both.

did you use anything to help it seal? some teflon paste should do the trick, you only need a small amount

you will only be able to tell if the diff is welded by looking at it. personally, i think its the wrong way to go, the welds will fail sooner or later and you will be stuck.

the first thing you need to do is verify the timing belt is installed correctly. get the t mark on the crank pulley aligned and check the intake and exhaust cam gears. if they the dots arent in the center crank the motor another 180 degrees. you already know wht comes next, a leakdown test...

propane torches work great on sheetmetal bondo, i woudnt try it on a plastic bumper. pull the bumper and hit it from the rear with a ball peen hammer. not too hard, and the colder the better. it should pop out.

You have 2 low cost options. Go to a muffler shop and have them bend you one. you may have issues getting them to pull the cat, the easy way around that (its illegal for them to pull it) is to pull the cat and the rest of the exhaust out before you go. number 2, get some straight pipe and...

Did u ever find anyone? I got a 96 gsx recently. Live off base. Normally a domestic guy lol