Yea I had the same problem. You have to heat it up with a torch and it will come right out. It must have something like the green loc-tight that holds them in. A little heat will solve all your problems.

I have the Tial with the 11psi spring in it, its how I ordered it from Slowboy. I love it but got it cause I run 24psi plus on my FP3065. It is not as loud as a Greddy S it is more of a whoooosh sound.

Thats weird, my 97 has it right by the fuel rail and so does my friends Talon and he has a 95.

How would be there pressure if they are both venting? Pressure will equal out. That and many cars, mostly old V8s would always just vent no problem, now I know our cars are not V8s but stuff like this all works just the same....or so I thought?

Should be right near the center of the fuel rail. The plug is about 2 1/2 inches wide. It plugs into the transistor. It is about 2.5X3x.5 iches in size. Hope this helps.

How would removing the PCV Valve cause the car to smoke? I have my PCV Valve removed and a straight barb in its place. I also Capped off the intake manifold where it used to run to. And I have both Valve Cover vents going to my catch can. The way I see it is that there is no possible way for...

I have a Ross/Eagle 6 Bolt built by Slowboy, 8.5:1. Cometic Head Gasket and their Stage V Head with 272 cams. I have 175psi across all cylinders.Did you crank it 4-5 times or did you crank it say 6-8 when it peaked? My results were with 6 cranks(thats where mine peaked), WOT, and a battery...

I've purchased their Stage II Block and Stage V Head along with many other parts. Mike the owner as well as all the other staff there are very helpful and are always willing to answer all your questions. Give them a buzz and I'm sure they can lead you in the right direction.

It all depends what you want to do with your car. If you want to hit high HP levels then you might want to price out a 6 Bolt while your motor is apart. My 97 Talon walked bone stock stock at 33,000 miles. Mitsu put a brand new short block in and it walked again 40,000 miles later. This time I...

Great numbers Nate. :thumb: I hope to soon follow once I get the Talon back together. I also have your Stage II Block and will soon have have your Stage IV head into Stage V :D

Thanks guys for all the help. I also put up a post on the DSM Link forum. Most of them say it is normal in a race motor and not to worry. A coulpe of them have it in there own 2.0 or 2.3 motors. It will just take much longer for a stock motor to see it. With forged internals and high boost it...

I know what a stock motor should look like. But I have a motor with forged internals and am running over 25psi on a rather large turbo. My motor will see more wear in 5K miles than most stock motors ever will. There is much more sress and cylinder pressure in my motor. I need to know if this is...

the piton skirt doesnt come up that high... the makings seem to begin where the oil ring would be if the piston is at tdc, not sayiing that is what its from just to make refference to where the markings are... how do you know that is is definately not normal... have you ever broked down a motor...

Compression tests show 175psi across the motor. And leakdown test at 90psi is less than 1%. I always let the motor warm up before getting on it. And I pulled the head cause #2 exhaust port was soaking wet in oil. It is very obvious that those two exhaust valve seals are the problem. And the...

Here is a pick of my cylinder wall. Its a Slowboy Racing Ross/Eagle Stage II 6 bolt. The motor has 5 thousand miles on it. Is this marking ok???? I just took the head off to replace some leaking Valve stem seals.

I was always told that you should line bore the mains if you change the bolts or studs. I had it done on my motor when SBR built my 6 bolt.

I might just take off the tensioner only and then slide the belt off. Then when I am done with the cam swap I will compress the tensioner in a vice and put the pin in it. Then bolt it back in the car and pull the pin. It should still be adjusted correctly I think. If not I guess I would have to...

I need to take off the timing belt in my 1997 Talon to change my cams. I have a 6 Bolt motor in my car and I am using the stock 2gen motor mount. I was told that you cant use the tensioner tool cause of where the 2gen mount is. I just got this motor from SBR as a long block and it only has...

I just pulled the valve cover. The intake cam has M003 and the Exhaust has M006. Those are the last few digits of the part #. It looks like I have 264/272. Slow Boy Racing built my motor with the wrong ones. Its always something :cry:

Before I pull off the valve cover, am I looking for the part number or 272? I can see some kind of numbers through the oil cap.

If I pop off my valve cover will my HKS cams say if they are 264 or 272s. I had my motor built and they said they put in 272 but the car just runs too smooth. I want to check myself to make sure. Thanks

Thanks Kevin (AGP) Its nice to know that there are still some shops that stand by there work :thumb:

Thanks for the help. I'll be calling them tomorrow

I sent them an e-mail this morning and will call them when they open on Monday. I might just go and order the GM Maf set up since I have to get new pipes anyway. It just kills me cause I just got done putting on my 3065 and can't start her up yet. Looks like the Talon will be on jack stands for...

I got the AGP FMIC Kit for my 2gen. I have a 6 bolt motor in my car with a 1gen cas, Throttle Body, Intake, etc. I ordered the kit with a Tial BOV Flange and I can't shut the hood with it on. Do any of you have a 6 bolt in your car and if so where is the flange for the BOV. I will have to call...

Yea if you don't cut the weight it will hit the lower pipe.

I didn't notice much of a difference at all. It shifts fine.

I love the motor but hate how much I just spent on the car. The motor is fully built. Got DSM Link now, Supra TT Fuel pump 850cc and a bunch of other stuff. I already ordered and am waiting for AGP Front Mount Kit and my FP3065. Then I will be able to see what this motor can really do. :thumb:

The bigger chunks of metal that i found were my Thrust Bearing. My crank walked and ate it up. There were no sides to the thrust bearing when I pulled the mains down. I just got done doing a 6 bolt swap no to replace my dead 7 Bolt.

Check for boost leaks before the turbo, that will cause lag. But I am running the Super 16g and dont get full boost till about 3900rpms. I am runnign 21psi.

I am putting together my 6 bolt motor. Do I need a 1gen Intake manifold Bracket to go with the 1gen intake and motor? I am talking about the support bracket below the intake. And also what did you do about the pulling point that mounts to the intake manifold by the CAS. Did you use washers to...

The TOB is always spinning. So when they go bad they can make a noise all the time. But they usually make the most noise when you push the clutch down. Thats when the most pressure is on the TOB cause its being forced to depress the clutch fingers on the pressure plate. If you hear the noise...

I used the Blue Thread Locker. Its the medium stuff.

It would not be the Throw Out Bearing. A bad throw out bearing makes the most noise when you push the clutch pedal down. It sounds like its in the tranny. If it makes noise when the cluch is engaged than the tranny is getting power to it. If the noise goes away when you push the clutch down then...

Oh you mean the plate between the Tranny and Block? I didn't even think of that. I was wondering what would cover up that part of the tranny that hung over the 6 bolt.

Almost ready to put the 6 bolt in my 2gen AWD Talon. Just wanted to make sure on how the tranny bolts up. It seems like there will be one less bolt holding the tranny to the block with the 6 bolt. Is there some kind of a dust cover that makes up the empty space?

Thanks guys I'll go with the 10w30.:thumb:

What weight oil do you guys use to break in your new motors. I am putting a built 6 Bolt in my car and wanted to know if I should break it in with 20w50 or 20w40 or just start it off with 10w30 like I will always be using. And yes I will be using Dino oil.

That is the Hahn Racecraft Super 16g. It is the same one I have on my car and Yes its for a DSM. You will need the spacers and brackets that come with their kit to make it work. You also need their o2 housing.The only weird thing is that it looks like the housing was rotated. And mine came...

I bought a new OEM Pivot Ball when I did my clutch. Is there any reason why other people don't do this? It was only a few dollars.

I was thinking of teeing it off the Brake Booster line. This way I could connect the hose around the larger part of the sensor where the o-ring is. Then I could put a small hose clamp around it to hold it on.

I am putting a 6 bolt in my car and have a question. What do I do with the map sensor on the top of the intake manifold. Please do not tell me to do a search or send me a link to RRE. I have already done a million searches and have checked the Faq. I just want to know what you guess have done...

Yup put half the cost on my credit card already

I talked to everyone else that deals with DSMs. I never told you that you shouldn't deal with them. Not sure where the hell you got that idea. I just went with SBR cause they had the right set up and price for me. I wanted Buschur but they wouldn't send me a long block. Magnus is great but I...

Thanks everyone but I did search around. Mike at SBR was the only one that took the time to answer all my questions and set me up with the exact motor that I wanted. He told me about 3 weeks and I will be sure to let you all know when it gets here and how it is. And as far as people that...

LOL Thats a damn good idea:D

Well I spun a rod bearing on my 7 bolt and the crank ate the thrust bearing again. My crank walked at 33K bone stock and I got a new short block under warranty. Now at 68K my motor is done again. Time for a 6 Bolt. Here is a pick of how we pulled the motor out. We don't have an engine hoist...

Last time I checked there was not pilot bearing.

I would use it. I used Blue when I did mine.

I have been hearing a loud knocking noise the higher I rev. I pulled my pan and my rod bearing caps. One of the rod bearings are shot. It didn't appear to have spun but it was worn almost though the copper. I also found metal in the pan. Some of the metal is thin and is from the rod bearing. But...