Good stuff. I've got a set of Evo oil squirters sitting on the shelf for my 2.4, I'll have to drill the block out but I wish I would've just put them in when it was machined. Didn't really need them for the drag build back then, but for regular street duty and some road course stuff this year...
Unless you're "living your life a quarter mile at a time", looking at what the top teams do doesn't really matter. Like others have posted, I've been running a 2.4 for 14 years now, 7 years before that on 2.0's. I love the driveability of the larger displacement and I've taken mine to 8500rpm...
I don't remeber that, but I know they did a good looking Evo8 drivetrain swap 3 or 4g. Not sure which one since I never paid any attention them to them.
I haven't had it on the dyno with this combination yet, so it's all butt dyno at this point, but I'd say full boost by 3500 even self-tuned. There's definitely improvements left on the table with proper tuning, I also have my whole setup optimized for quick spool and torque under the curve. I...
I happen to be a big fan of FP and have had their turbos from the E316G all the way up to the FP3575, so I'm a bit biased. But I really like my Green/2.4 combo now although I did have the E316G with the 2.4 as well and that would be my setup if I autocrossed all the time. Spool was instantaneous...
I haven't dyno'd it with the Green yet or even brought it to my tuner, low 400's on pump seems to be a good number and right where I'd like to be at. After some clean up of small things this winter, I'm planning on getting it tuned for pump and E85 with the switchable maps this spring. It'd be...
Red is too big, 68HTA is a little small, FP Green would be just right. I've had everything under the sun, the Green has been my favorite. Great pump gas turbo.
Well, here's the only build thread I could find that I could link. I think I had one on the private side of NABR when I was making some real power, so no linky for that. This one starts basically when I got sick of having a 600+whp track car and came home from the shootout intending to part the...
Thank you.I'm a little curious. Is this a profile page just saying "here's my car in it's current state?" Or is it tied to a build thread? I've been a moderator on other well-known DSM boards but haven't seen a set up like this. I could probably combine my build threads from other boards over...
I went with 17x9 RPF1's, 35mm in the rear, 42mm in the front, 255's all around. I did a TON of research and measuring before I bought these. I didn't like anything sticking out in the front which my previous 28mm's did. Needs just a bit more camber and lowered just a bit, but I'm real happy...
17x7's are easy since they are so narrow, anything from -38mm to -45mm will work. 17x9's take a little more work but still fit well on a 1g without touching the fenders if you know the correct offsets. ��But if you're upgrading, I'd at least get Evo wheels as they are about the...
25mm offset wheels will stick way out on a 1g. To fit a 17x9, you want 42mm in the front and 35mm in the rear. There's off the shelf lightweight wheels with those specs that will fit the VR4 calipers.
The last Evo I bought had a 2.3 built by them in it. Due to driver error, he blew it up, no fault of JAM, but I was really impressed with some of the little details I noticed from their work.
I threw mine in the trash years ago, the 1G system is horrible. Add in better brake components and I don't think there's any way the 1G ABS system could keep up. They don't call it "Amateur's Braking System" for nothing. :D
I just used factory front non-abs lines on mine, no need to reinvent the wheel. That and the proportioning valve and the two hard lines to the master cylinder are all you need. The abs pump and wiring removal gets you a pretty nice weight reduction too. Don't forget the abs computer and wiring...
Yes, it will fit. Stock offset I think is 42mm. 38 is about perfect, so is your tire size for that rim. Dial in as much negative camber up front as possible, stock alignment specs other than that will work good for autocross. Anything other than that takes suspension mods.
Keep the pics coming! I haven't looked at this thread for a few years, but I grew up in Duluth and used to visit Archers all the time in the 90's. Last time I was up there about five years ago, he still had TONS of DSM parts up in their storage area, I think that was all sold off shortly after...
Yeah, you're going to have a hard time getting down anywhere near 2000#'s. Brent Rau ended up around 2150 on his AWD car I believe and he had WAY less material in that car than you have in the pics. Just saying, there's a lot to remove when you have a full cage.
I run 20W-50 not just because of the FP article, but a lot of us with built motors over the years have seen more bearing wear from lower weight oils. With that said, I probably will switch to a thinner oil with the higher zinc because I don't have balance shafts or oil squirters, and I have...
For SAT, it says ANY stock appearing turbo, does that mean you can use an Evo style compressor housing on a DSM? Or does it have to be model specific(14b=DSM, etc)?
I'd say valve stem seals by the sounds of the blue cloud stuff, other than that, the rings.Sounds like a built 2.4, stock 2.4 pistons don't fare too well in a turbo engine. If it is the rings, you might be able to just hone it out and throw in new rings, if the walls are bad, then you need...
While it's good to have a machine shop familiar with 4G63's do the work, it's not necessary. There's no rocket science here, the exact same principles for machining and assembly are the same as every other motor. One thing to watch out for is if you have your crank turned for any reason, some...
Definitely like the stock tails better, but I can't speak much, I replaced my 92 GSX front and rear bumpers and tails from a 92 Talon. Clean car, good luck with the build.
You can get away with a lot less if you adhere to a few basic sound principles, the largest being that if you bounce sound off a solid surface, you pick up 3db, effectively doubling the perceived volume. When I was playing with systems in my 1g back in the day, my best was either bouncing it off...
I've never seen it jump like that, just leak onto the board from the cap itself. Might check over at ECMlink, Thomas and Dave have probably seen every possible scenario.
Nothing else needed for the front, the top mount gives more camber adjustment than the normal eccentric bolts anyways. For the rear, I would do lower adjustables, give you a little more room for a wide wheel/tire combo over pushing out the upper control arm.