Rumor has it that a set of 550cc injector and a 2G MAF is a good match. The S-afc would be a plus to actually tune it a little better, but it should be close.Without the injectors, I would say the S-AFC would be a must.

Exactly the opposite, the Prothane mounts better/safer than the stock mount.The less the engine and transmission can move/flex out of place, the better the components maintain their position and correct geometery. This means less strain on CVs and everything else. It also means more power...

Well,The 2100 just feels too light for me. The 2600 can be driven smoothly, will launch better, and will hold more power.On a FWD 2100 is probably the better choice for most. On an AWD, I feel the 2600 is a way better choice.Maybe conside a clutch in the middle. You will have to...

I would never recommend a 2100 for an AWD. I just don't think it would last long.I have a 97 FWD making just about 300hp to the wheels. I don't launch it much, I don't drive it much, and I don't take it top the track. I have a 2100 in there with not that many miles on it, may be 12 to 18...

225-45-17 is my recommendation. No smaller than a 215-45-17

Sorry for being harsh.I wish you the best on the recovery.

First off it was stupid not to immediately shut the car off, pop the hood, and check the basics....like oil.You had to drive 10 minutes like that. You had no choice. What did someone have a gun to your head?

I would check the little boxy Jeep Cherokee

For the trans, I recommend the Pennzoil Syncromesh available at Autozone or BG Syncroshift II. You will need 3 bottles, but will only use a little from the 3rd.

A you ####en serious, what about your post and conclusion is so much different?

I shipped 4 18" wheels to a guy in Canada via USPS. No problems with shipping or fees.

The Full Throttle works fine.....but I were to do it over again. I would get a remote mount like an Areomotive and do the plumbing.

The Ingalls is a little easier and quicker to adjust.

I bought a transfer pump at Autozone.Suck the new fluid into the pump. Insert hose into trans, pump fluid into trans. Repeat until full.

While expensive, I feel the Ingalls is the best choice right now IMO.http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/38420.htm

FYI,The powesolt rotor are good and stay looking good for a long time. The slotting helps to evac gass build up.Honestly though, your these or cross drilled rotors will not decrease stopping distance or significant increase braking performance.To decrease stopping distance you...

Powerslot makes the rotors.They recommend Hawk pad............ which is a seperate company.I have experience with both. I have been extremely happy with both.I will probably stick with Hawk pads.....Hell I have two extra sets of their pads in my inventory for future changes...

Honestly,I would never advise anyone to drive a car with a fuel leak......especially with it in the engine area.

Buschur and RRE do some big downpipes and they can be configured for a cat when you order.

AEM EMS with GM AT and MAP sensors.If your are looking for easier tuning and to save $, then the GM MAFT.I cars with the VPC were a PITA with temp changes and normal driving. I would probably avoid it...expensive too.The EMS requires a lot of time and tuning.....but it is prbably...

Here is an upgrade path for you. http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/c/m/cms306/UpgradePath2.htmlAt the bottom of that page you will find links to upgrade paths of some of the major vendors have put together.....Many of these guys have been doing this since the early 90s.

Naa....not even with a prybar.

I miss my 00 Jeep Cherokee.I had 4 JL Audio 15" W4s in a sealed box. It was a nice wall facing out the back. The box was specifically built for the subs and was divided internally to create two chambers. 2 subs per chamber.I had a Rockford 1100a2 in 2ohm stereo configuration running...

I didn't bother with the mount when I did my 97. It didnt take too long at all.I used a impat gun on the 4 bolts after soaking them with PB for a few hours.....with the impact gun you elminate the chance of turning the crank the wrong way.Then you can torque them on by using a...

Thats why I use the copper line kits. The copper tubeing is alot smaller than rubber vaccum line which makes it easy to route. The copper line is also way more durable than the plastic shit, plus it hold the path you shape it in.Plastic line = crap Rubber line = crapCopper is the...

Fully positive+35mm to +45mmI like to stay around +40mm

Well...if he is able to put it in gear...then its not a hydraulic problem.If it is not moving in gear...It must be the clutch.

As for the crankwalk. I unpluged my clutch saftey start switch, so I can start the vehicle without depressing the clutch.....in neutral of course....then I let her run for at least a minute before using the clutch.I also used full syn oil and change it more often.

I had a similar problem....I after installing stainless briaded lines and bleeding the system, the problem still existed.Changed out the offending caliper and that took care of things. Although a caliper rebuild kit would probably do the trick.

The inner/center part of your old pulley fits nicely in the cup of a floor jack....which helps when you need some extra lift.

I have a 92 TSi AWD and 97 GST fwd.I like both cars, but I would rather drive the 92 any day, despite the fact that my 2G is more powerful than my 1G.Traction issues aside.....The 1G is tighter. It turns better and tighter. The steering is stiffer. The suspension is stiffer...

Thats why you in a case of an accident, have you car towed to your house.....its your property, they have to do what you tell them. You might have to pay for the tow up front...but it is sure better than getting ripped off.

When he asks what car? Tell him were not discussing a vehicle nor fitment. You want to buy the plugs you asked for. BP7ES, stock number 1034. If he cannot serve your needs, you should ask for the manager.You asked for a specific part number, you did not ask him to look up it up by...

What he said.

I would be inclined to go with the Ingalls one.It look like it is easier to adjust.....especially over the course of time....if you put antiseize on the adjustment threads when you install the arms.My 1G seems to have some negative camber in the rear and its not even lowered. I...

It does that as well on my 92. I think its just dry-rotted debris getting blown around in the ducts...but can't get out. Mine only does it on full fan

With all the bolt on stuff for our cars, nitrous is the last thing I would do.Put the $ a side and save up for a group of mods.....BIG turbo + injectors +fuel management + IC.Or start laying the foundation for the big mods.....intercooler, then fuel management. Then later add the BIG T +...

Yeah you should have used a small impact gun to remove the 4 bolts holding the pulley on to the crank. This way you would have never turned the engine. Then when you torqued on the bolts you could have used a 1/2 on the crank to keep it from turning.

When you installed the HB, you didn't by chance turn the crank any significant amount in the wrong driection did you?How much fuel is in your tank?....too little and the very cold might = frozen

sounds like your carrier bearings on your driveshaft. If one is bad, replace both while you are at it.

The dealer just changed my driveshaft yoke a few weeks ago....under warranty

I have the Greddy EVo on my 97 GST. It is a wonderful exhaust....I think its better than the Apexi N1.

I would peobably torque them to 85lbs....and check it regularly..for the 1st 500mi.I usually torque to 100....but thats a little high

They sell various lengths/sizes of hard line with different fittings at the autoparts stores like Advanced and AutoZone. They also rent bending tools and flare tools.....which means you can bend, cut, and flare the line to your needs.So really...there is no need for such a long braided line.

The inside of my crankcase on the 97 GST is nice clean alluminum. ....thanks Full SYN like Mobile 1 and Castrol Syn......changed every 2k to 2.5k miles.

The prothanes without a doubt.For the most part on a 1G they are full mounts, except for the one by the radiator....its an insert that braces the stock mount. If that stock mount is ripped, replace it with a new one and used the Prothane inserts.

I would have to say EVO.Both are fast. But it seems that the EVO responds better to mods and is easier to mod. From the magazines and other stuff it seems like there are more very high power EVOs than WRXsI also know the regular WRX trans is wimpy. I can only assume that the STI trans...

On my 92 Tsi AWD run the Dunlop Winter Sport M3s in a 205-55-16s mounted on my 2G GST rims.All I have to say is....they handle like you wouldn't believe for being a snow tire. Well that is why I orginally bought them. I wanted a snow tire with a high speed rating and good performance...

I ended up going with a Fluidyne on my 92 TSI. The stock rad was leaky around the end tanks. I was going to orginally buy a GDI rad which I think it had metal tanks, but the damn core was twisted....so I said screw it and bought a Fluidyne.

Check the belts for tightness.Also watch your crank pulley/dampner. They tend to start seperating after a while. I just recently replaced the one on my 97 GST. When I took it off the motor, it seperated into two pieces.BTW the inner piece of the crank pulley fits nicely in the cup of...