Yup! The fans work perfect. It turns on and then off after a little while. I’m definitely going to look into the thermostat issue. I’ll test it using the boiling water method. It should be ok judging from both hoses being hot to the touch. Thanks so much! You guys are awesome! :hellyeah:
The reason why I said it’s the pump or housing is because oil has been spotting my driveway lately. It’s really hot, too! Like burning hot. I think it isn’t cooling properly but I’m still researching it. The thermostat checked out fine. You can hear it click open and close. Both hoses feel the...
After about 20 minutes or so of driving. Maybe I need an oil cooler? The oil gauge shows good pressure and builds up quickly when I first start it up. Im definitely stumped on this one.
So my car is overheating. How convenient right? The coolant itself is fine and pretty recent but the temperature needle is slowly going towards H. My best guess is the oil filter housing or the oil pump. The filter looks a little dented and crushed, kind of like a beer can. It drips a little...
Welcome to my build thread! I'm slowly restoring my DSM while at the same time upgrading it with lots of performance parts. I bought it way back in June of 2011 while I worked at AutoZone. Only 80K on the dash when I found it! I tried saving it and protecting it as much as I could throughout...
Did the insulation of one of the other wires rub off? If so, the chassis is now grounded, giving the ECU incorrect signals to make your engine/accessories run like s***. Had a similar sounding problem with my alternator. Voltage regulator couldn't keep up and even smoked, too! Be extra thorough...
I had this same problem. Get that alternator checked out. The voltage regulator caused all kinds of really inaccurate readings in mine. My battery also died overnight as well like this.
I had this same exact problem but it was behind the radio. The relay, wires and ECU (I have the black box version) were in perfect condition. My crappy AutoZone alternator couldn't keep up with all the electronic and voltage demands. Voltage regulator and the alternator itself was the culprit in...
I have a EVO III 16g but I had 1-2 parts machined to accept a 20G internals. All billet internals, too! Pieced it together my self with parts from Turbo Lab of America and Ebay! Total cost was about $400-$450. Weighs next to nothing now and spool is nearly instantaneous. Very smooth yet very...
Any other lights turn on with them, or become dim? Get a bright flashlight and look through the holes of its shell. If you see black burn marks or "ashy" looking wiring, alternator took a dump. If it also has like a faint yet burned rubber smell to it, its definitely the alternator.
Triple check the alternator and the voltage regulator inside it. All these symptoms are very close to an electrical problem I had before. It will force all the dash lights to turn on even though there is no problem. (battery light, srs, abs, brake, speedometer, erratic turn signal and even the...
Awesome! haha anyways it turns out I'm the 2nd owner. It lived its whole life in Mass and then here in RI where I live. Never been modified, either. Virgin DSM FTW! It was built in august 1998 and purchased November 1998. Cool!
The 420A engine was built specifically for economy, efficiency, and to also have the look of an eclipse. Its still a DSM but w/o the high performance, insurance and high maintenance costs of the turbo versions. This engine blew away the 4G64 and 4G63 in sales numbers, though. In 1999, only about...
Less blades for both sides, extended tips, billet wheels and machining the bearing housing to accept larger/lighter wheels and turbine. You can also machine the original 16g compressor housing a bit to fit a 20g wheel in it. A way better and stronger wastegate solution will make you scream! Keep...
For custom fabrication pieces, I usually just use Vibrant as they seem to always have the basic ingredients I need to get started.
I would love to buy a clear timing belt cover, except its top to bottom all in one piece. I would even accept it if it came in 3 pieces as well.
My state has lots of rules like California as well concerning emissions. You will fail instantly if you have a loud/leaking exhaust, CEL, no catalytic converter, (apparently its a federal crime to drive without one!), no resonator(s), a bad fuel cap/fuel door, Engine instability (idle, hiss...
Have you tried bleeding the caliper? Empty out the whole thing. After that's done, very carefully use a large flathead screwdriver to push the pistons back in place. Should slide right off.
old topic but whatever.....$300?! $200 buys you a brand new Evo 3 cast manifold and $100 more gets you one hell of a port/polish job on it at a machine shop. Even less if you get one used. I think tubular manifolds are mainly a "bling" thing, like for show cars or something.
Is this sale still good? I've been looking to get my hands on a Fluidampr damper but the asking prices everywhere I look are insane. If it is still $279 or less, I'll be more than happy to buy it from you.
I meant one reading for each of the cylinders. That way you can find out if the head gasket is leaking between cylinders, piston rings going bad, or if you need a rebuild.
Like the others said, you don't have bad numbers and it could be so much worse.
WOW! Gapped at .040? That's really high! I think the maximum you can go is .032. I usually set mine at around .028 or .029 when I need to change them out. Makes the idle real smooth.
From what I can tell so far, the cam or crank sensor is having a hard time communicating with the ECU which would explain the random, abrupt shutdowns. Take a quick look at them to see if there's any damage.My car idles smoothly at a constant 500 RPM. I think that's where it is supposed to...
I've encountered a problem similar to yours. Your alternator is about to take dump. The voltage regulator is on its way out, too. It gave me all kinds of bad/incorrect readings even though all the other systems were fine. Get the battery checked out as well. Mine ended up having a bad cell in it...
For nice, all stock, regularly maintained DSMs, 4 to 5k seems reasonable. More if it is a lower mileage DSM. I paid $5000 for my '99 GSX and it had 89K!If it's a s***box, just walk away and search elsewhere. These cars are a complete nightmare to fix if it is neglected or poorly maintained...
Just looked at the concepts (if they really are concepts!)......Aside from maybe adjusting a few of the shaper pieces upfront, making a spoiler that matches the rest of the car's lines, and maybe a different wheel selection, it looks great so far!I could see this car having options of...
Oh, that poor VW! I hope his children pay for his sins of stupidity. :notgood:The same goes for that awful DSM. WTF was the owner smoking to think of doing that?
It certainly couldn't be that hard to get a job at a fast food place? They are always looking to hire anybody at the drop of a hat. You could work nights and weekends.Just stick with a DSM. They are better cars anyway.
Her car wasn't completely totaled but there is enough damage to get attention from the police. It's still drivable, though. When she left the scene, its now considered a hit and run. I told her to stay but she was in a hurry to go to her meeting. From what I can guess, she was likely tailgating...
Maybe I worded it wrong, But I'll clarify some things. Both lanes were clear before I got hit. I called the police and filed a report at the scene. It's pretty much a hit and run type of thing when she decided to leave. No citations given out. The lady in the truck drove off. She hit me hard...
I personally like the T25. Haven't had any problems with it yet and I'm going into 98K with it still. Very smooth, too! IMO, It's fine for a stock engine. I'm happy with it.Although, I have to admit they do seem to get a bad rep due to crappy, neglectful owners. The blown ones that I have...
Ok, so lately I have had some bad luck, particularly with other drivers. It Seems as though no one bothers to look at road/street signs, use lights, see other cars or are simply just negligent. Just glad it wasn't in my DSM! Sorry, I just need to vent....Anyways I deliver auto parts for a...
Did you overlook the cam sensor? It can also cause a no start condition or make the car run like crap. Is the fuel filter/fuel pump clogged up?If the ECU was bad, the car wouldn't even turn on or stay running (not for long, anyway). There would certainly be a nasty smell as well as...
I, too, believe it to be the cam seals as well.I changed out my oil cap thinking it would be the obvious source considering it did look busted up and there was lots of oil leaking around it. There was much less oil leaking after a few drives but now the oil has like a "spatter" pattern type...
Damn bro, that sucks! My 2G got backed into a few weeks ago and its been stressing me out ever since. I'd go insane if that happened to my 2g! These cars are rare enough without being killed by other drivers.
Please sue the s*** out of her for being such an idiot and a neglectful driver. Be...
You can do it "caveman" style. Bring a flashlight, too.Look for a caramel or milkshake color when you remove the oil cap. Also look for black soot, sludge or carbon deposits in the valve cover. Also take notice of any strange fuel smells that might be hidden away or recently cleaned. Take...
Try rotating it clockwise with the belt on with everything lined up. If you feel "resistance", like something in the way, your timing isn't quite right. This means the pistons are coming into contact with the valves. It should instead be a nice smooth motion. DO NOT turn on the car or leave it...