Thanks for the info, what I didn't understand was that the fuel trims are the adjustments the ecu is trying to make.I got it fixed already, the coupler to the throttle body was not hooked properly and a tiny bit of un monitor air was getting in.

I understand my ecm was trying to take fuel away because it was running very rich. I seem to have had a very small leak right after the maf sensor, put it back together and car seem to run a bit better and not miss yet. Btw this is on an ls1 trans am not a dsm. But that is irrelevent. :pAnd...

Anyone care to explain how the short trim work under normal operation(not at idle) I'm asking because I have a problem with my car where the short trim is at -40%, so the ecu is trying to take away alot of fuel and I'm running very rich.

I say you have a small boost leak some where. That's why when you build boost with the 2step it automatically dies and when you don't it almost dies. Check for boost leak.

Did you check the ignition switch?

How did they felt out? Ya you have to put those back no wonder it didn't start.

What rockers are you talking about? The ones that open the valves? Then thats why it does not start.

You are looking at too many things. Check what you messed with and make sure it is all good. You didn't mess anything up with changing a valve cover and spark plug just forgot something.

Do a continuity test on the coils with a meter and see if they are too spec. You must have disconnected something and not plugged it back the right way.

is one of the rims dented?

I do. I can always get it from loan a tool program but would rather own the part.

I have the tester. Just don't have the adapter.

Where can I find the adapter that hooks up to the radiator neck. I have a v6 but might be the same as a 4g engine, not sure.

Where can I find the adapter that hooks up to the radiator neck. I have a v6 but might be the same as a 4g engine, not sure.

Check the whole system for leaks.

Make sure there are no leaks and that the bushing on the tranny is not hitting anything.

They have the loan-a-tool program. I saw that they have a compression tester but do not loan a leak down tester.

Do a compression test, if compression is low proceed to a leak down test.

Did you check that the fuel components are all in working order?

Get the oem service manual, you won't regret it.

So I guess no one has used this. I'm trying to get some input on it.

I been searching and can't find any reviews any where. Has anyone in this forum had any experience with this leak down tester:170134-ComboLeakDown COMBINATION DIGITAL LEAK DOWN/COMPRESSION TESTER by Intercomp Racing

Why don't you try removing the injector connections and try to start it with starting fluid, if that don't help do a compression/leak down test. You might have other problems.:thumb:

Why don't you post a video, easiest way to get help.

Never heard of an rvr

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low priceseBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low pricesI appreciate the help!

pretty nice if you ask me, what kind of welds did you do?

Very good point! lol :cry:

Make sure the cam angle is not 180 degrees off.

a weak spring will cause little to no boost. Make sure that waste gate is not stuck close.

Correct firing order?

The cam gear should be time in relation to the crank. Also make sure you don't have a major boost leak or an elbow that is off ,ect.

Checking timing is easy, I ment mechanical timing btw. :thumb:

skip timing. I would check for boost leak then see if you didn't skip timing.and if you gonna get a haynes get a used factory manual on ebay, is worth the extra money.

Set the time on the sprocket, then insert screwdriver. If screw driver does not go in all the way give the sprocket another turn.I try to hold it in place with a long screw driver. But is better to use the tool.I think is selling on ebay for about 60$, all 3 require by the manual.

Proper crank and cam signal?

I need help identifying the difference between this 2 throttle body.

what turbo? your wastegate could be stuck open.

sure the firing order is right?

Rally Sportno they have disc, even my old rs had disc

I had good luck with them.

security system will kill spark and fuel only I think. Check starter connection, or jump it straight to the battery and see if it works, is probably bad.

If it skip timing like you said maybe, but since it happened fast you might be ok. re time the engine and see if she runs normal if not you might have bend a few.

Some american cars have it on the back of the hub it self

Do a compression test and on the affected cylinders do a leak down test and it will tell you exactly was wrong.

Was the other one the ac switch?

I was just wandering if Rau had a build thread on his eclipse, Can't seem to find much on it.

So how you like it compare to link?

They both easy I say.

couple dsm out there. They all ran good, way to represent guys.