Here is a link to the MMNA website with production figures when it was still active. Click on the menu items on the left for drop down menus to navigate more of the site.https://web.archive.org/web/20030313162246mp_/http://www.mitsubishimanufacturing.com/about/production/index.asp
Just a note. These are not OEM nor are they OEM replicas. These are close reproductions but not exact as there are some detail differences but it's as close to the originals as you're going to find now.
The site posted above also sells the flat version of the rear bumper emblem.https://www.hoosierdecal.com/product/90-94-eclipse-gsx-decals-regular-non-domed/
Yes, you'll have to remove the rear bumper. That is if you can as the nuts and bolts are probably all rusted to hell. You;ll probably have to break them all off to remove them. No easy task. I'm guessing your license plate lights are dangling? I have the same problem too and I just zip tied them...
The AWD sticker on the B-pillar was introduced for the 1991 model year and continued through to the 1994 model year. 1990 models did not have it. It's a flat sticker and not raised.. Also, the Eclipse GSX 16 VALVE TURBO emblem on the rear bumper was a flat sticker for the 1990 models. The 1991...
Even a reman from a Mitsubishi dealer is a hit or miss. I got one a few years ago and it didn't last me 2 years while another one I got before that lasted me almost 10 years. The current one I have now is from Autozone which is over $100 cheaper than one from the Mitsu dealer. The last Autozone...
If it's going to have a Renault Megane powertrain, then no. It needs to be 100% Mitsubishi. Don't make the same mistake as Toyota did with the BMW Supra.
I'd check for binding linkages and rod first before anything else. Pull the door panel and check for any obstructions or seizing while working the door lock manually with the key.
Check for power to the lock actuator when unlocking. If there is power, then your lock actuator is probably defective. But first, remove the door panel and observe the linkages as you unlock it. Check for anything jamming the rod or linkages or for any seizing and try lubing every part that...
I replaced mine with ones from Radio Shack. The item number is 272-1092. Just take out the old bulbs and reuse the base taking note of how the wire lead wraps around each base. It's not an exact fit for some of the bases of the bulbs, but it works.
I come up with part# MB759878. Searching for it on google yields a couple of sites.Part is listed for $6.59
http://mitsubishiautomotiveparts.com/oemparts/mitsubishi/knobsunroof_sunshade_MB759878.htmlPart is listed for $7.07...
I'm just about 100% sure it's a bad ECU. When my ECU in my 1G went up in smokes, literally, (was driving and smoke started pouring out from behind the radio), afterwards I when trying to start it, I noticed the boost gauge needle wouldn't rise to 0 when you turn the key to position 2. I replaced...
Yes, I used RTV to secure that loose fitting connector onto the body of the oil sender thinking it was ok since it didn't move but apparently the connection was still bad. I replaced that connector with a female spade terminal that fits perfectly and tightly onto the sender and it resolved the...
A big thanks to everyone who replied. I was convinced all the connections were ok, especially after securing that loose one at the sender unit with RTV, but after reading your replies, I decided to just eliminate all the old connectors. I had all original wiring and connectors on so I decided to...
Here's another article and the for sale ad with pictures. Apparently, it was a Maranello Red Eclipse GS Turbo.http://illinoismitsubishi.schaumburgmitsubishi.com/95/tracking-the-whereabouts-of-the-first-mitsubishi-built-at-dsm/http://www.mautofied.com/listing-100594723.htm
Interesting article about the first car off the DSM assembly line.http://thesouthern.com/news/local/state-and-regional/first-car-off-mitsubishi-line-where-is-it-now/article_0379001e-b5a3-5866-90f4-437891829081.html
Yeah, I like things to work too. I don't want to be looking at a dead gauge while driving.It's still doing the same thing, dropping off intermittently, after 6 years of driving???!!!I'm positive the connector at the sender is a tight fit. I hooked it up and covered it with RTV, securing it...
You replaced the oil pressure light? Or did you mean you replaced the oil pressure gauge?I've seen at least 2 other threads with the same exact issue and no one's ever replied to them.Yeah, it is very annoying and totally baffling and disconcerting! How long have you been running your car...
Lately the stock oil pressure gauge has been acting up on my 1G GSX. It reads ok but intermittently it will drop to zero and stay there for several minutes and then it'll go back up again to normal as I keep driving. Sometimes it doesn't move at all when I first start it up but then it'll start...
Ok, I think I know what's going on. From what I gather after asking around, the door cutouts on the door sheet metal itself are different sizes depending on what speaker size was installed from the factory. Also, there are 2 different size speaker baskets/ brackets from the factory depending on...
Hmmm, I could swear that the hole in the sheet metal on my door is perfectly round and not kind of rectangular when I took a look at it last week. And my car is a 1991 GSX as well.I think I'm going to stick with 5.25" replacements because I want a stock appearance and I don't want to have to...
That's weird. The hole in the sheet metal of my door is a complete circle. The stock speakers are mounted in a plastic basket which then mounts to the door. And the speaker is pretty much centered with the grille on the door panel.
You mean there's plenty of meat to screw into the plastic basket? A 6.5" speaker can fit into the basket?? The stock 5.25" one barely fits in it, diameter-wise. Also, does the stock grille on the door panel fit over the new speaker ok without modification?
So my stock door speakers on my 1G GSX are 5.25" Has anyone replaced them with 6.5" ones? If so, what exact modifications did you have to make? And what brand and model speaker did you use?
It took me a while to figure out but I think he's talking about the body moulding on the rear quarter panel that has the vents in it; just right behind each door.
How old are your other tires and what's the tread measurement at? The Tire Rack offers tire shaving service so you can match the new tire tread to your existing tires.
I had the same question about the CAS when I did mine as well. Here's my thread if you want to review it.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cas-install-tdc-question.462318/
Yes, all lights, if originally equipped, are required to work in order to pass the PA state inspection. This includes all brake lights. You can get pulled over for a nonfunctioning third brake light.Try asking Miller Import Parts to see if he has one. Chances are pretty good that he does.
Ok, so you should have no issues with your '96 Talon passing emissions then.As for your '97, are the 2 ECUs compatible? Can you swap the '96 ECU into the '97, complete the drive cycles to set the monitors and then get it tested?
The requirement is to have it emissions tested within 10 days of purchase, but the probability of getting caught is very low being that you have a current state inspection sticker.When you say he gave you a one time pass, was it an exempt sticker or a waiver?Is the old exhaust and cat still...
Your car is registered in Easton? If so, that's Northampton which requires an OBD and gas cap check. Assuming your O2 simulator works (no codes set) and there's no CEL, you should pass the emissions test as the computer detects no codes and the inspector observes that the CEL is not illuminated...