fix your exhaust leak, if youre burning that rich check for an exhaust leak before the top o2 sensor, and if that dont fix it change the front o2 sensor and check the coil pack.

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ps3 or 360?

I play BF3 Phayro is my name add me

when the car is warming up does it idle high, if so after it warms up and the voltage drop rev the engine a lilbit and see if the voltages jumps up, if so the alts regulator is is about to crap out, meaning time to have it rebuilt or get a new one. Oh and one more thing did you check the alt at...

Neither, Battlefield 3!!!!

Ooh Rah!!!

Sorry to hear man hope be well with you getting it fixed. i wanna see pics!!

Set your DMM to read ohms and test the coils, it the coils dont read 1,2,4,6,8 ohms depending on what the vc supposed to read its a bad sub.

have u checked for an exhaust leak before the o2 sensor that ends to put ecu in open loop and it will burn rich.

To check to see if it the wheel bearings, you can lift the wheel off the ground and if it wobbles it could be the bearings, if it dont wobble its something else.

Maaco do decent painting if the surface is prepped before they touch it but if not, no no grasshoppa.

i get funny looks when i got to Autozone or Advance Auto Part when i ask for Valvoline VR1 oil, have no idea why they keep it i the back lol!! NAPA for the win, they know everything!!

Youre making yourself worry about nothing, do like gravedigger said and youll be ok

Technically in order to sell a car you have to ownership, meaning title have to be in your name. Now if you bought the car and didnt get the title transferred into your name the car isnt technically yours. But there may be a loop hole to get around that. Good luck man!!

Is your BOV recirculated?

yeah its fine, only 1 fan runs at a time unless u have ac and its on.

15 volts is kinda high for a stock/oem alternator. If the car was flickering with the volts that high you need to turn it off it will cause more trouble than you want, i.e. fuses, relays and light bulbs will start to pop. (Dont ask how i know lol). MOST vehicles can handle 16v max for a short...

Its your alt. belt, just get the belt put it on and everything else will turn.

get one of these, STINGER SPD5204 ANL STYLE 0GA CAR AUDIO FUSE HOLDER | eBay and one of these or similar, DB Link ANL Fuse Power Distribution Block 0Ga In 4Ga ot on eBay!

1. As far as the equipment youre wanting to run, good choices. 2. Your sub and amp combo is good. and for the mids and highs as long as the ohm load doesnt drop below what the amp is recommended for youre good. 3. As for a multi amp install kit any kit will work youll just have to buy a distro...

Mine is ran on the passenger side through the grommet where the wires on that side go in to the cabin area!!

Haha thats awesome!!

youre better than me

is your bov recirculated?

you have gas in your cause youre running rich and thats bad stop driving it before u mess up the engine. and the po505 is the iac malfunction.

Nice lookin ride there man, i got the same black handle all the cool people have that one lol!!

The alt is good since belt is squealing, the squealing comes when there is a load on the alt if the belt isnt tight enough or a worn belt and also a low/bad battery will an extra load on the alt at start up until the car see full voltage.

First thing to do is charge the battery until its full, tighten the alt belt, if it squeals change the belt.

Like Luv2rallye said CAS would be the first to check since the injectors isnt firing then ECU.

If the car is titled in TX you'll have to get the Texas title then get it transferred to La. Now to get the title u can find the original owner and ask them for it, if they dont have it either then you have to add another annoying process to get the title.

check the water pipe, since the water pump and water pipe connects over that area.

unhook the tubes plug the sources and see if it leaks, u may have a crack inside if the leak stops leave it unhooked.

if it clicks and dash lights up when you turn the key to start its more than likely the starter.

welcome im a fellow tx dsm'er 2g ftw.

i would go for it, drive it around look for rust and oil and water leaks compression test and decide from there. Since u did say u wanted a turbo car.

At first i was, then i found out there were oil galleys that ran through them but now no more leaks.

I had oil leaking out of a few exhaust manifold studs, i pulled them out and put hi-temp rtv (gold stuff) and no more leaks.

Did u check the fuel pump? Ive seen where when the fuel pump was going out it causes a vehicle to do that!

haha see where their minds are in VA.:toobad:

Make sure ya MAF is plugged in tight cause they like to wiggle loose, now clean the old plugs good unhook the injectors and try and crank it to see if u can burn the fuel thats sitting in the engine.

any one of those places will have them at a reasonable price.

whats the plugs soaked with gas coolant or oil?

From what you explained a bad cell in the battery can make it turn slowly and not let it crank.

this is how mine is and no problems, and u can toss the rest out!!

Run you some 4ga wire from alt to battery, and since it seem u checked everything under the hood have you tested anything inside the car to see what voltage its getting?

Is it running? If so, how do it run? What kinda turbo is on in, is it big or little? the look at the injectors to look for any numbers. Check for obvious upgrades first. Thats what i would do!!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/179481-finding-short-partial-short-battery-drain.htmlRead this!!

Ive had the same thing happen to me, what i did was took a dremel tool with the thin cut off wheel and cut and grind down the sides so u can hit a socket on it. No damage will be done to the rim if u take your time.

when u bled the slave did u have the cap on or off the reservior and did u make sure the it didnt go empty while bleeding?