I have a used vrsf fmic kit that was run for approx 5 miles i am selling. No bent fins or issues. Shoot me a text if interested.8456254834

super clean 1ga.1gb converted shell. im parting my car out and would hate to cut up a shell that has almost no rust. only spots I can find are under the rear bumper area.not looking for a ton. like 150 and come grab it. if its still sitting in a few weeks its going to the scrap yard.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/441910-how-make-replace-fuel-filler-rubber-connecting-boot-1g-awd.html

it sounds like the bolt inside the subframe is stripped. best bet is going to be to use a die grinder or dremel tool to cut the nut on one side and pry it open off the threads. or cut both sides and remove it.

I am surprised that this thread still has new posts on it since I haven't been here in almost a year.the cans use a higher amount of curing agents so the conditions outside really effect the final outcome. its why even in the summer putting the cans in hot water before use can help make the...

a friend just picked up these holset35s for a tt v8 build and i was trying to figure out what they are from since we cant find vbands for them.

rust removal and clean up is addicting and time consuming. i use a bead blast cabinet and a big high cfm compressor and have a portable blaster for the bigger parts. a soad blaster is good for removing paint, bondo and surface rust but to descale chunky rust it sometimes needs a much heavier...

only about 100-300 pounds heavier than a turbo supra for a awd aws car but whatever. i didnt buy it to make it a track car. and the whole heavy thing gets old when its all people say about them. most people dont know anything else about them.as far as working on them its not bad. its...

i know im a dumbass. im a sucker for mitsubishi's.picked up a clean 92 in sandstone with super 15g's already in it and all the supporting mods. sadly its going to be slower than my talon but 3000gts are just so damn nice.

bought a 3000gt vr4

ill buy the ac line block off plug thats in the firewall

only if you didnt clean off any wax or chemicals before you applied it and when its still fresh. I use a pressure washer to wash mine so its pretty tough.

if swapping masters make sure you have adjusted the actuation rod to correctly engage the piston

the white is dip also. everything but the cf hood was dipped.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/464187-prepping-car-painting-full-car-plasti-dip.html

i used the 3 gallon pro car kit and with the sprayer 2 passes makes it peel like its ment to.

why cheap out to save 20 bucks with something like the stock bolts.

its becasue of the size and shape of the hood plus how small the passes with the cans areone light and 2 medium coats for the black using the gallons and a sprayer

always loved the fiji blue 1g vr4's

I have a 4 gauge distribution block that grounds the block, the head, the frame, the ecu. as people delete alot of stuff grounding points can be lost and i have seen cars that have constant issues be from poor grounds or corroded wires

there are formula's that are used to figure this out but generally if the straight run is more than 12-20 feet you want to step up 1 gauge to help prevent voltage drop.by splicing a thicker wire in only the middle it can slightly effect the resistance but otherwise it would have not much...

unless the rubber seal is leaking the chance of the inside of the hanger oxidizing or rusting is pretty low. even on 20 year old cars the hanger usually looks new after you break all the rusted bolts off trying to remove it.

have them bead blasted and powder coated. this way you dont have to worry about adj gears if your not looking for performance

or have a machine shop hot tank it to remove the crap that cant be easily scrubbed out.

if every shop is shady and a thief why not just work on it yourself?i know pampena is one of the most respected shops in the 3000gt / dodge stealth platform and he got his start in a galant vr4 before ray moved on to 3000gt.

the hanger grounds to the tank which grounds to the body which grounds to the neg battery terminal.

i would measure your particular exhaust as you might get some very different answers

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.htmlim in poughkeepsie and have rebuilt a few engines. If you want someone to help out let me know and once you get the parts together i can shoot over there and lend a hand.some things not...

ding, ding ding,atleast now the brake system has totally been replaced

you shouldnt need to remove the dash. it comes thru the firewall in the upper right if your sitting in the seats. if you remove the glove compartment you can get the 5 plugs thru that way. 3 go to the ecu and the other 2 go behind the passenger right side kick panel.on the drivers side...

just to update. the stock adjustable rod that actuates the master cylinder was about 2mm out of adjustment and was putting just a tiny bit of pressure on the master causing the brakes to drag and after several stops the pressure was high enough to cause them to lock. i readjusted them and have...

i hope it only cost 5 bucks because thats what a good shift boot that looks way less :barf: cost.

checking to see if i had any screws loose. still hurts like a mother though

took a screwdriver to the face and needed to go to the urgent care er for some treatment.

I find that at meets the dsm is still a very respected platform. Everyone around here that i talk with is more excited by my dsm than my vette or the evo x mitsu screwed me on

extra protection

thanks a little more tuning and its ready for the first time to the track

first time the whole car is together

simple green and a brush. problem is the poly is probably absorbed some of the oil and has dirt ground into it so even cleaned it will still look dirty

lol short of the body every part of my car has been replaced now. its getting to the point where i cant even throw money at the car to make it work. Now its just tuning and driveability fixes. for the first time in 2 years the car will be all together tomorrow afternoon.

built a full 3" exhaust and fixed an oil pan leak. ordered some new parts and am getting ready to do an alignment and its set for the road.

redid the brake lines and rerouted the rear lines. adjusted the cf hood and got a set of hood pins

the invoice didnt list new main studs so i suggested it just to make sure they werent old

i would switch to arp studs if you do buy it.

On my coil overs which are megans there is no spot on the rear strut for the stock support that goes where the two lines meet. Al ot of threads on here have people saying to just zip tie them onto the strut but i was looking for a cleaner more permanent solutionmy first step was to use a...

cf hood and be done with it. just put mine on today

looked good about 10 years ago. still see it every now and then in engine bays. looks kinda dated now when i see it.

e85. i can bring 10 extra gallons. problem is only place i know to get e85 is across the river in newberg

jnz tuning one of the supporting vendors is awesome with oem parts. he is where i got all my shifter bushings from for my rebuild