Anyone tried a Lancer front license plate mount on a 1g? Wondering if it would fit nice/look good. Hoping someone can provide a picThanks!

Thanks guys. I'll check those today and get back to you

My 1G has been driving like sh*t lately, it doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in or what RPM I'm at, when i start to ease on the gas pedal the car lunges and then cuts back and lunges again. I discovered my coolant reservoir was completely empty, I refilled it and it ran better for a bit but...

Is there anything else on the same circuit that could have a bad ground? For example stereo, cigarette lighter, door locks, or is is 100% something to the tail lights? I mean obviously the fuse is for the tail light circuit but I don't know if anything else is run on that fuse

My tail light fuse has been popping every so often the last few months, and now it has gotten to the point where anytime I turn the key to the on position, or even lock my doors the tail light fuse blows. o.O I don't even know where to start looking for the problem.. somebody please give me a...

Thanks mate. That solves half my problems!

I was pulling my oil filter off today and noticed this - There's two wires, one black and one yellow, into this housing slightly above and ahead of where the oil filter is. The yellow wire is plugged in but the black one is just hanging there. It has one of these square clip like plugs on the...

Don't use non turbo pistons.I'm building an engine for this conversion now. You will need new gaskets and seals, turbo exhaust manifold, coolant lines and turbo, turbo thermostat.. read up on that article it has everything you need

Most of canada is 1988 yes, but Quebec has different requirements for the years, as well as some parts of ontario like goderich doesn't have to e-test at all.

that and free health care. now we just need an autobahn (no speed limit)

Yeah, so much for the land of the free :P Canada has no emissions after 15 years :hellyeah:Don't bother flaming me for that statement, its just my opinion

US dollar is the same as ours..

$300 bucks for ARP head studs? Geez, i recommend buying the parts yourself.$83 dollars for 6 bolt at extremepsi http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17033&cat=555&page=1 $99 for 7 bolt http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17034&cat=555&page=1 free shipping...

lets see some pics! i wish my car had those low miles

perfect, thanks man. I'm hoping to reach 300 HP so i'll splurge on the race bearings now, better to do it right the first time

just ordered some ARP head studs and rod bolts on sale over at extremepsi. Exactly what bearings do i need to get? ACL main bearings and rod bearings?

perfect i'll check in to that today, thanks a lot guys

I just failed my etest. I need to pass to renew my license plate stickers before december, being from Ontario we are required to emissions tests every 2 years. I passed the curb idle with flying colours but failed the 40km/h part. Here are my readings -HC ppm limit 58, reading 21 CO%...

Now is it okay to just redo the bottom end like that, and slap the N/T head on as is? It's in great shape, only 160k km on it. I'm just not sure if there's any significant differences between the nt and a turbo head

Well I've decided i want to bore the N/T block .20 over and go either new forged pistons on the 1G rods or pick up a good set of used pistons on whatever rods. I have yet to check at the local machine shop for prices, but i have all the tools i need for the build, now all i need is the parts...

i used JB weld on mine, just to the metal behind it. Used small little spring clamps to hold it in place overnight. It won't be peeling off again anytime soon. And I don't plan on needing to take it off

bad battery connection. clean up all the terminals/posts/and connections including the smaller fuse box next to the battery

6 - bolt. I had the same confusion the first time i pulled my engine apart, once you get a 6 bolt and 7 bolt oil pan next to each other, the difference is very obvious

very clean man. I'm jealous :cool: nice to see a clean 1G in ontario :hellyeah:

3rd one is pretty sick. 2nd one looks ricey

I'm building a turbo engine with 1g rods 2g pistons, and I'm using a n/t block which means no oil squirters, i don't think they will make much difference as a daily driver. Personally if i did have them and thought they might not clear i would just remove them and block the ports.

Here in Canada i got pulled over in the middle of the night because my tail light fuse was out, and the cop looked at all my LED gauges and just said, "too many gadgets maybe?" I quickly found the blown fuse and was on my way with no tickets :)

Just did compression test, came back 185-190-185-190.

Turns out they are both 6 bolts.

haha. it looks like you spray painted that s#^t It looks pretty rice on the inside, I hope you don't have some Wal-mart body kit. What a waste of $3000 on a non turbo, instead of a built engine

Wouldn't white smoke just be burning coolant? If head gasket was blown you'd be getting blue smoke and missing oil.. or oil in your coolant reservoir

Why not just replace the stock sending unit in the t-stat housing

Well its non turbo but I'm leaning towards piston rings going bad. And yeah mobil 1 did the oil change, they showed me the dip stick on the full line after.. i checked the drain plug and its tight. I had it changed at 159,400 and I'm at 163,400 and 2 quarts of oil was goneI'm going to do a...

Thanks! The non turbo is a 6 bolt and the turbo is a 7. I swapped the turbo transmission into the 6 bolt a couple months back.

I've been reading alot of the NT to turbo threads/guides, for sure will look for better pistons. I will definitely be replacing all seals/gaskets/rings when this does happen. I believe they are both 6 bolts but i can't guarantee that. Is there a dead simple way to check if they are 6 or 7...

Need some advice. I want to do a turbo conversion. I have a complete non turbo 4g63 with 163,000 KM and a complete turbo 4g63 with 200,000 KM. I'm new to the DSM scene, this is my first car, many of you will say sell the NT and buy a turbo, but I want to learn to completely do an engine build...

Well the engine bay is very clean and no signs of leaking oil, I'm about to jack it up to look underneath. I had my buddy drive it today and there is a bit of greyish smoke out of the exhaust, mostly just when accelerating quickly. I'm stumped and don't know what to do :confused:No signs of...

Hey guys need someone to point me in the right direction here, I had my oil changed about 2 months ago and yesterday the oil light came on. I popped the hood and there was not even a drop of oil on the dipstick. I park the car in the same spot of my driveway every night and there is absolutely...

I've been waiting on a 1G BOV from 1 province over for almost 2 months.. -.-

i followed the guide that blackgst posted up there ^^ and i have a spare engine (except its a turbo '93 front wheel drive) but i think that part should be the same if I'm not mistaken. Next time i get a chance I'll try and swap them.

check your ISC motor, mine is toasted and stalls really easily especially in reverse. You might also need to reset your base idle speed. Both guides to those are found in this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/408317-air-conditioner-shaking.html

okay i reset the idle to 750, and then i checked the isc with an ohms meter. it read 1.1 from 1-2, no reading from 2/3 or 3/4, 1.1 from 4-5, and nothing from 5/6. I'm going to assume i need a new one to fix this.Also, after i reset the idle my car won't start. It has enough volts to start...

yep thanks john for the info very helpful I'll check both that and reset my idle speed tomorrow

And just to clarify, what is ISC? :P I'm going to set my base idle speed back up to 750 tomorrow. I'm looking in my haynes manual and not seeing anything for ISCScratch that, i was looking under cooling and a/c. found it in fuel and exhaust

yes alternator checked out good. Haven't had any other problems related to the altenator. It only acts up when you push the a/c button and turn the fan on, but when i manually tested the fans to the battery they ran smoothly. I'm actually going to take a short video of what it does tomorrow and...

I have this same problem - its not the a/c fan. When i push the a/c button the whole car starts shuddering and rocking. And the idle drops much lower you can feel it working harder. I know its not the a/c fan because i just installed new slim fans and it still does itI was thinking it has...

as for other parts (ECU, wiring etc) i have them. did my homework

I have a turbo 93 engine to rebuild and drop in. As for the other parts i already have them

It doesn't matter if its wheel or crank.. I was only pointing out that I didn't blow a bunch of money making it look clean from the outside and am instead working on a build/turbo conversion.

Are you trying to make an argument here or..? I'm not getting your point