I'm using ECMlink with speed density making roughly 400whp and the car drives 100% stock around town without any kind of hickups at all. I found speed density far easier to setup than I expected. It also drives far better than I expected.
I'm going to take a multimeter to it tomorrow, I'm having other issues as well. the car drives like shit with A/C on and it doesn't like to idle with the load of the compressor.
Well. after driving with the a/c on for a day I found the 20amp condenser fan has blown. I installed a 30 for now. These fans are rated at roughly 10amp continuous but perhaps they spike over 20amps during startup. Any thoughts?
Well the non working a/c was one of the first thing I removed when I bought the car back in 2006, along with the condenser fan. Now I'm all old and shit and want comfort back so I just reinstalled complete a/c from scratch with all new parts ( minus lines ) and im running twin 12" Spals. So...
The green will start to fall out of effeciency with lower boost. If you are getting zero knock you can now try to increase timing in small increments to see where the threshold is.
Also, a high zinc conventional oil will provide more protection then your usual "off the shelf" full synthetic. I have seen proof of this through oil samples sent to Black Stone Labs
Did you actually physically look at the flapper? I had a similar problem recently and after taking the O2 housing off noticed the flapper arm and flapper somehow walked forward causing the flapper to not align with the hole. However my hot side is a turbolabs piece and not genuine MHI so im not...
Not exactly. This would only really apply during a quarter mile pass, even then thats not going to be enough time to reach the limit of the factory cooling system. A 420hp DSM by comparison with standard compression will not produce any more heat just cruising and daily driving. Road racing is...
You need to reset all the direct access back to the original settings to start. And you obviously did not follow many of the mechanical tuning tutorials as your throttle does not go to 100% and your TPS sensor does not read .63 volts with the throttle closed. these things should have been setup...
Yea I would personally take some timing out, I tend to like a consistent afr and tune the timing around it. although your timing does seems a bit low. Is this on a sidemount?
Even if water got in through the inspection plate it would not make it into the transmission. Does your transmission still have the breather? it sits on the top of the transmission near the passenger axle. if it is missing there will be a small whole that may allow water in.
You have other issues. I typically run under 200 degrees with a fmic and only a single slim fan. The fan will only come on when sitting for a long time. You need to pressure test your cooling system.
Well at first I hated it LOL. But now that I have it hooked up correctly I absolutely love it. The ability to tune boost by gear, rpm and also have ecm link use error correction ( which I don't currently use ) To adjust for different temperatures, loads ect. is Nothing you can get with a mbc...
After checking the vacuum lines at least 3 times in the past, this time I realized the boost and wastegate lines were swapped. Just goes to show it never hurts to check, re-check, and check again. Stupid on my part. I guess I also assumed that since boost was responding to changes to the duty...
I also posted this on ECMtuning forum but have not had a response yet. So im trying to dial in the duty cycle on this solenoid: A duty cycle of 93.8 yields only 14psi, while the next duty cycle up of 95.8 yields over 25psi. Why do I have such a narrow window to work in and there is no "middle...