Jus, question for you regarding BOVs if you can help. My Greddy Type S was fluttering pretty bad with the "lower nipple" disconnected and at 20 psi it was leaking with it connected.I decided to do the single spring mod and I was just wondering what the BOV should open at under vacuum. With my...

MAF.wbo2 is strongly recommended, MAP is also recommended.

When you say it closes immediately are you saying that the actuator moves when you start the engine? The butterfly valves are open when the engine is off and the vacuum pulls them shut.

My crack in my cover was also very small. I figured it wouldn't cause any noise. Sure enough that was my issue.Just as another member said, take one belt off at a time and take the lower timing cover off and start it up to see if the noise is gone.

FIC FTW. Exceptional customer service and an awesome product.The FICs will outflow the Delphis. The actual flow of those delphis is 940cc.

What does your pressure get up to when you prime it? May just not have enough RPM to get it up there. Also how long did you prime? It took me a few minutes to get all the way up to the head.

You're brave! The P.O. of my car didn't have a knock sensor and blew a hole in his block. D'oh!For some reason my car is really knock happy. I was getting knock on E85 at 16° at 20psi. Granted it was only 1.1° of retard max but I DD my car so I have to be extra careful.Is this a...

Oh yeah. Sounds like we both need to upgrade! :)Congrats on the 1/4 mile time man. That's awesome. I'm jealous you can run such high timing at 30psi. Any knock whatsoever? Even .4-.7 degrees of retard?AFRs 12:1?Edit- BTW, I love your pink wheels.

What were your IDCs? I was running E85 with my 850s and wally 190 and was hitting 96-97% IDCs only spiking at 20psi (tapering off to 17). On a 20G

I know this thread is old but I wanted to post in case anyone ever comes along and finds it wondering the same thing.First off, any cells that are over 100 usually means you need a global fuel adjustment. Looks like your specific example could use about a 2-3% increase in global fuel...

Grab a new log. I will try to help out as much as I can. I had to tweak my SD table to get my car to even run so it takes some time and I feel your struggle my friend.

I would say you need to increase your global fuel by about 5 percent.

Keep it simple! First do a BLT before you start throwing parts at it.

I'm kind of confused here. Are you deleting the balance shafts? What is the purpose for removing the sprocket?I used vice grips to hold the b shaft while I removed/re-installed the nut.

Something is rubbing on your timing cover. My car did the same thing.Is it cracked, missing bolts/washers? Is your crank pulley separating? In my case, the culprit was the timing cover was cracked.

I got my lines from summit. They just need to be Teflon lined and they won't allow vapors to escape.

I was a freshman in H.S. when this thread was started.Sounds like you all need to do BLTs

OP, do you drive your car with those mismatched wheels? I hope that doesn't damage your viscous coupler.

I figured out that the stainless steel lines are allowing the fuel vapors to escape. I guess it's time to upgrade to some teflon lined hose...

I would argue you are taking a risk. You risk having too low of tension on the belt and jumping timing. You also risk too much tension and shearing the teeth of the belt and jumping timing.Maybe it's only like 10-20% chance but to each his own.I'd get the tools and do the job right and be...

I used a piece of wood and my jack and patience. Once you get a couple of bolts in, I spun the t-cast output shaft (which you don't have the luxury of having) to get the input shaft splines to mesh with the clutch disc.

The line is unplugged (and evap stuff removed) but the smell is for sure coming from the area pictured. Good to know about the SS lines allowing vapors to escape. I will get a proper cutting tool next time I'm at harbor freight and remove the suspect section and replace with rubber...

The past few days I've noticed a profuse gasoline smell in my garage. My fuel feed and return lines are both new -6an stainless braided.I think I've narrowed down the culprit to the hard line shown in the pic (the one in between the brake lines and the fuel feed/return lines.Is this the...

I drill into the seal and then use an angled pick to remove.

My big 16g went and I bought 850cc injectors and a 20g and haven't looked back since.

I noticed about a 5*F drop in my coolant temps with my Godspeed Project aluminum rad. The only reason I got it is because my old one cracked.I usually run around 169-179 degrees.

I would also check your coil pack.You'll have to go through and test all the systems of the car that deal with air, fuel, and spark. Notable things to check, coil, TPS, MAF, O2 sensor, fuel filter, and, of course, vac/boost leaks.Diagnosing a problem like this is tough because it could be...

F*ck it dude. Just rotate them.

You do make a valid point. As I said in my last post I feel like the better tread in the rear is for commuters that drive all seasons. Not for people like us that understand their cars abilities and limitations in and out. And with regards to the 3/32nd difference, I really agree I don't think...

True but when the back end is light when you're smashing the brakes don't you want tread in the rear to maintain control of the rear axle? If your front tires are bald you can control the front end with the steering wheel all day long but you have nothing to control the back end with.OP- Do...

I don't appreciate the personal attacks.1) You're right. Won't argue with you there. You probably can get away with more than 3/4 inch difference but why risk it? Its a rule of thumb that I use and haven't had a problem yet.2)...

Get all four off the ground and measure the overall rolling circumference of all four tires.As long as they're all within 3/4 of an inch of each other you will be okay. 3/32 difference is usually the cutoff but I would measure the circumference just to be safe.Also, do not rotate them, you...

Attach a pipe or something to the end of the BOV and vent it towards the ground. That'll at least make the noise less audible.

Huzzah!!! I have found a suitable solution. An old oil pan drain plug!

Hey guys. I bought a 20g that came off of a Subaru.The water lines are in different locations and I need to block off the bottom port in this pic.I figured I could just put a short bolt in there with a crush washer but I can't find one thats short enough.I think jb weld would melt. What...

Hey guys.I'm new to the ECMLink world and got it to replace the crappy MAFT I've been using to tune my car.I wanted to attach my log to see what you guys think of my settings and if you have any recommendations. The log is just me tooling around the neighborhood and on the street. I was...

My EVO1 RS 16g decided to kill itself.I've got a complete spare turbo cold side and want to take the cold side of the 16g off of the car and just put the spare one on. Is that possible to do with the engine in the car?I want to limit my frustrations by not taking the turbo assembly out...

Just got myself DSMLink V3 full and I read 17.9hz when off... Perhaps this is normal?

Nope. Unfortunately if you were using a 90 trans in a 91+, you would only have to change the bracket. 91+ requires swapping all the components. Just fyi though, the 92 trans (NPXV) is a very strong trans!The cables are cake, two nuts on the firewall in front of the ECU and pop the bushings...

I'm taking everyone's advice and bought dsmlink.I was using mmcd to datalog. Link will be here Friday.

Compression when the belt is done properly and lack thereof when installed incorrectly.When you bend your valves your pistons are just pumping air through the manifolds with no resistance. When the valves function properly there is resistance in the head causing the noise

Those are what I used :thumb:

My slim fans came with zip ties that go through the fins in the rad.Maybe you could find some from a vendor or something.

Well that's a relief! I'd hate to be damaging my precious EVO1 engine!I made motor mount inserts per the VFAQ using a hard cutting board and my knock sensor was untouched. I am 95% sure it's the OE sensor off of the EVO donor... I didn't bother changing it because it still had the black goo...

So far so good... The new magnecor wires and 1 step colder plugs have brought my knock down to 1-2 counts here and there with 1 count MAX when taking off from a dead stop. I've only put 10 miles on the new setup so far so I'll have to give it a few more days to make sure.

I am going to replace the plugs to BPR7ES (currently running BPR6ES) to see if one step colder will help with the knock. I also need to replace the plug wires. I will report back my findings.

I wish I had an answer for you but that does seem odd. Just so you have a comparison, I am at 37-45hz at idle.Perhaps your maf is bad? Do you have a different one you can test on?

Car is a 92 AWD. Mods as follows: JDM EVO 1 RS engine with 16g turbo, 510cc injectors, 90 ECU (with pins swapped), BSE, o2 sensor is good, 3in. GM MAF w/translator, FMIC with dejon tool piping, -6an fuel feed line/custom fuel feed line fitting, summit racing high flow fuel filter with male -6an...

Will they even clear your calipers?

The IAT is at 80*F which is what is standard for the maft.I am seriously considering DSMLink. I'm hoping that will be a panacea for me.