I would just wipe the cylinder walls with oil or wd40 and cover the block with a garbage bag to prevent debris from getting on it. Shouldn't have to worry to much about down where the crank is. Should have some lube (assembly lube/oil) there when it was assembled.
Take off the dust plate to see if the flywheel is damage in any way. If it is the starter than you will see damage to the gears/teeth of the flywheel. If not, try to see if there is any play in the crank. If not that either then I guess it could be the throw out bearing or a damage clutch...
!!Freaken-a man!!Google BME Pain Olympics wondering what it was. Biggest mistake ever!WTF... OH CRAP, OHHH CRAP, OHHHHH CRAP... Damn bro, ssshhhhhhiiiiiiiiii man, ffffuuuuuuuu... !!AHHHH MAN!!If your comparing your experience from graveyard to be like that? Damn, I don't know if...
All I change on my steering pump was the bearing that the pulley/shaft rides on. Stopped the squeaky noise and has been good ever since. Took the bearing to napa auto parts where they measured it and found the right size bearing which cost me $6.Was going to change gaskets and all too but it...
Everything is new except for the center housing. I reassemble it a few times to make sure everything look right. But still the same results. Mind sharing what to look for or steps when inspect the center housing for abnormal wear?
I haven't installed it yet.Yes, physically dragging with no comp or turbine cover on. The section that I have marked are the area that it is dragging. After that it turns freely. I have no idea what's going on, I've put in a new rebuild kit, new turbine wheel, and new comp wheel.
I have the same 18g from TEC. I have no complaints about it. But the comp wheel got chewed up by something so I replaced it with a 20g wheel with the 16g comp housing form Kinugawa. Seems like it is dragging after the rebuild even with a new turbine shaft.
I just rebuild a 16g fallowing your tutorial. When I turn the turbine it would have a little drag/binding feel, but once I turn pass it, it spins smooth until it gets back to that section again.Could it be that it may have a bent shaft?
That does look really good with the high rise spoiler. But with the 3 piece it doesn't look to great in my mind. The outer spoiler will throw off the color of the car but if just coloring the center piece might throw off the color of the outer piece. It just doesn't look right when I picture it...
Find some cobalt or titanium bits, used lubricant and be patient. Good firm pressure and slow speeds. I usually use a carbide burr to open it up after I drill a big enough hole. Then going as close as I can to the threads and then break/bend what is left out with a screwdriver or pick.
It seems like my controller have gave up on me. TEIN also thinks that I may have a bad controller. Anyone who has one I would like to know if i can swap it with mine? Just to verify that it is the EDFC controller that is bad before I decide to purchase another. Or if anyone might know or had any...
I think the only thing out there is the DEI 530t for what your looking to do. Don't need to get an alarm, all you need is a negative feed to operate the 530t. You might have to get 2 modules if you want the sunroof to open as well. Also, a few diodes so that when you manually lock/unlock it...
Can't find any info on their site since they took down the manual. Does anyone know what the JJ represents on the EDFC? I found a blog on Tein USA about error codes on the EDFC but did not mention anything about this code. I have tried unplugging the connections for an amount of time hoping to...
It doesn't make the noise when I drive over harsh roads. It only happens when I make a left turn or when the weight shifts to the pass. side and occasionally the noise will continue on for a about 30sec after the vehicle travels in a straight line. Also, i have checked the see if it was the...
I have went through and checked every, bolts, and bushings from the motor mounts, suspension, and the drive shaft . Visually the bushings/mounts look like normal wear and tear just some small cracks here and there but not completely separated.The car sat for about 4 months until I...
I've never had a bad wheel bearing clunk before it always sounded like I had some mud tires on. But I'll test it one more time.Ball joint was the first thing that popped into mind when this happened. Because of the exhaust drowning out some of the noise/clunking it seemed like it was from the...
This has just started when I reinstalled my transfer case. I have checked all that I can from bolts, joints, mounts, endlinks, and rechecked the transfer case. I am out of ideas here.It only rattles when I make a left turn or like when the weight shifts to the front passenger corner and also...
Hook me up with the transfer case if your not using it :thumb:.Out with the DSM when a buddy called to go hang out. Was gonna go back home and swap it for the beater car but got lazy. Next morning saw that someone hit the rear and now the paint is cracked and damage. Also, someone decided...
Read this guide thoroughly, I think it will pretty much answer majority of your questions.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/407715-how-get-basic-tune-ecuflash.html
How's the car running with the auto transfer case on the manual trans? Because it's like a needle in a hay stack trying to find one here for my manual trans.
I hear something like that once in a while when driving. It seems like it is coming from the passenger glove area. It sounds like someone letting air out of the tires slowly but, my car still runs fine so I'll just keep my fingers crossed.Where is the sound coming from in your vehicle?
You can check out Evil Genius Racing, They are located in W. Sac on Harbor and Rice. RD-Tech in Sac off Power Inn and Belvader. Or you can just take it to Dels Machine shop off of HWY80 and El Camino for the machine work and assemble it yourself. As for pricing I am not sure what each place will...
Do you know if the flywheel been resurfaced? When clutch is press, check the fork arm if it is pushing against the housing. Where does the fork arm sit currently? In the center, little on the left side, little on the right side of the housing?
What have you checked for so far?I would check idle air control valve and fast idle control valve. Most likely I say its the FACV. Also do a boost leak test.
Only thing that comes to mind is that you may have bad thrust bearings. The noise you hear when clutch is push in might be from the thrust bearings. I would just take the pan down and check the thrust bearings just for the hell of it. Or drain the oil and inspect for metal shavings.Another...
So, your saying that you ran the t-case with no oil for about a month? If that is the case them start looking for another t-case.Are there any marks on the flywheel that indicates it is rubbing the t-case? Starter Plate?