I guess if your still undecided get the best of both worlds and do a compound setup. the 2.3 wouldnt know what hit it. And yeah, total cost is what I was talking about from the beginning.
$150 hx35 if your lucky
$125 feed and return(larger than stock)
$200 to $1000 T3 mani
$125 Slim fan that pulls at least 1400 cfm
$250 for one 272 cam(larger recommended for stroker but Im sure you knew that).
It comes down to how much money you want to spend up front. 16g=$250.00 HX35=$750-$1000 at the end of the day. Usually when people are asking opinions they dont reply back to everything mentioned with a counter arugment.
20G will get you well into the 11s and into the 120s on trap. If you are really good at tuning you could get the evo III into the 11s too. The 20g(tdo6) is a little slower to spool mut not much.
EVO III turbo is great for 300-375 hp on Stockish setup and is very streetable. The HX35 as mentioned above requires hotside or manifold and feed and return provisions. You wont be able to take great advantage of the holset without good fuel mods and a set of cams would really help open things...
No not quite that good. Maybe a foggy mirror then. I used a precision straightedge and .003 feeler guage to check both head and block. numeous times and every angle possible. Took about 2 hrs to check block and head. The motor has cometic gasket on it using copper spray and arp studs at 90 ft...
I just redid my head and used brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads to clean both of the surfaces. Im using MLS and got the mirror finish I needed. If you take everything off the head yourself a machine shop will charge about $50.00. If you send a complete head to them to breakdown and rebuild then...
Yeah, I was wondering what was going on. We were hoping you would of made it to the meet on saturday. Thai came. I called Tuan but he said he was busy. Todd Phillips said he was going to make it, but didnt. I called Matt too, but with the new baby I guess him and amber are locked down for a few...
Check base timing, boost leaks, look for lean conditions on plugs and gapping. what octane fuel are you running? Real bad lifter tick can cause some degree of knock too. Especially if you are running solid mounts.
Get something to monitor fuel. i.e. wideband or at the least a E.G.T. Pull the plugs to see the condition of those first and foremost. You can look at the back of any haynes manual to see whats going on with the plugs.(sparkplugs never lie). That will tell you if youre running lean.
Thats awesome to hear. All I ever hear 16 year olds talk about is hondas. I think the guy in the picture with the 1g has crabs or he is scared of loosing something.
At 15-16 psi it wouldnt hurt to do a frontmount. VRSF just announced a group buy. This is a very practical setup for your "stage 1" goals.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/415228-vrsf-1g-2g-fmic-group-buy-fall-sale-extravaganza.html
If you are going to do something about the problem now is the time to do it. Dont keep driving it and chance messing something else up. Break it all back down and see where the problem is.
Nice car. You have your work cut out for you. Honestly if you have to have a list of parts you probably need to set a smaller goal. Maybe 300-350 hp. You can do that with simple bolt-ons. A halfway reliable 500hp car will require a built motor with a big turbo that will probably not be to street...
I trhought about doing one time myself until I saw a rendering. It looked like a highway patrol car without the lights. UUUUUUGGGGLY. If I can find the link I will post it.
This is one of the best threads I have read in a while. You might be able to find a shell for sell that already has all of the safety req. done along with suspension and some wiring. The trade off is dealing with a small mess of someone else just ripping stuff out of the car.
If your ever at a salvaqe yard stock up on fuses just in case something like this happens. I have like 15 of those $10.00 fuses. Most of the time they dont charge you for them.
Thats funny. We actually took an awd 1g and made it a stripped out fwd drag car. We were hitting 10.40s with it. Needless to say this was 10 years ago before the aftermarket was really price friendly.
None the less its a nice ride. On another side note you can insure a car for whatever you want...
I forgot to mention I was running MAFT. My whole budget minded theory just flew out the window.If you want the 20g buy it. Wait to put it on until you get a better fuel system and a way to adjust a/f ratios
Im not saying your wrong, but when I put my 20g on my car(8 years ago) I was running an safc, 255 and a front mount. I didnt have an afpr so all I did was run a larger return line and my pressure dropped and we were able to tune it better.(egt tuning of course). I agree that afpr, larger...
You can run as big of turbo as you want on the stock motor as long as you keep the boost low. It wont benefit you on the low end though. I would at least get a wally 255 and run a larger return to your fuel pump(to keep base pressure down because of the 255). After that I would get larger...
It will bolt up. You need the top tranny mount and most likely the transfer case. There is one bolt hole on the 2g tranny that will not be utilized. The way the cables are mounted to the tranny are a little different too. Just keep the bracket off of the 1g tranny to use. The 2g 7 bolt however...
Have you let the car run for an extended period of time? Are you losing coolant from the system. Check your sparkplugs. You may just have water, coolant or any other type of condensation in your exhaust.
Get a wideband. The narrowband you get at autozone just monitors what the front o2 is doing in loops. The wideband actually measures the afr and gives it to you in lamens terms.
I would at least put a small filter on it. The best thing to do is put a catch can system on it. You could also put a line back to your intake pre turbo if you have the nipple for it.
You dont have to get the galant gsx. Just order the jdm tranny rearend and transfercase from japan. You might even find them floating around in the us. I have a Galant gsx tranny in my talon too. I use it when drifting. Final ratio is 3.5xxx or something. It works great for me. The gearsets are...
The color looks really good. Im with a few of the others on putting the wideband and boost guage down so far though. But if thats where you like them then so be it. Seems to be too much eye travel for me for guages I look at every two seconds. I think overall the setup is pretty sick though.
The 420a motor is a dodge motor. Go to a neon form and see how much money those guys have to dump into their motors to make decent power. With a gsx you can get 300-350 hp with bolt ons and a tune. Your talking 2-3k plus the car.
To make the same power on the 420a It will cost you that plus...
You should definetly do the E brake cable yourself. The oil pressure guage may have a short in the wiring. Check all of your fuses. Look over your shifter cables and make sure none of the connections or fittings are loose. Alot of guys use redline or syncho mesh to try to rid some of the...
Sometimes the cheaper clutches springs will rattle around. Most of the time its the really cheap ones from ebay. The throwout bearing is most likely making the noise.
Go to VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions You can build the tester for $8.00 from lowes or home depot. use a compressor or bike pump to do the rest.
I had the same problem. I just fixed mine today. It was a boost leak.
Go to VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions and do a boost leak test. I never saw a mention of you doing one.
I'm sure any Mini truck shop could hack it up for you. They do it on trucks all the time. Granted the car is not sitting on frame rails and would require all that support that everyone else mentioned. I had a targa top done on my 04 tacoma and it cost about $2,300 without paint at a hole in the...