http://turboboostleaktesters.com/eclipse-talon-2g-95-99-t25-stock-turbo/You ever figure it out? Sounds like the engine is seeing knock and when it does, it retards the timing advance a lot to keep things safe, which in turn makes it slower.
^ Link does vary timing at idle to help stabilize it. But nothing as drastic as 20 degree changes.Do a boost leak test and see if your block off plate is leaking. If it is bad enough it can cause a vacuum leak. I had to rtv the side of the block off plate that has no gasket to seal against in...
Check voltage at the battery when you have the radio turned up high on a song with a lot of bass. I'm sure its dipping pretty low. You probably need a capacitor and higher output alternator.Its probably knock if I had to guess. I'm not sure about the stock ecu(never had a stock one LOL), but...
Drain the oil and let us know what you see in the oil. Sounds like rod knock. Its good you caught it soon. Don't start the engine again until you drain the oil and pull the pan to verify whether it is a rod bearing or not.Looks like you have more problems than that though. Oil leaks, exhaust...
I doubt the pcv valve is causing your problem. But it should only allow flow one direction, it should shut completely and not let air through the other direction.My bet is valve stem seals. Slight smoking at idle and smoke during decel are tell tale signs.Does it smoke during WOT?
If you want a good 2G GSX that isn't going to require a lot of maintenance right off the bat then I suggest you save more money. $3000 will get you a car that needs new parts here and there. 4-5,000 will get you a NICE car that will go a while without needing anything more than gas and regular...
You do not listen for leaks when doing a boost leak test. This will only allow you to find huge leaks. Use soapy water in a spray bottle like the other 5 million people in this thread said. I say to do another boost leak test, but do it the right way. It's the only way you can be sure that your...
Ok that's what I thought you were saying, just wanted to verify. That's probably what happened. I'm about to go external as soon as my gasket set from FFWD gets here, so it will no longer be an issue.
Would mind elaborating on what you mean by the "cover walking down"? I assume you mean the compressor housing spinning/sliding one way or the other.How would I know? do the scribe a mark on the housing and chra?
Yeah I'm in the same boat. Stock 6 bolt bottom end except for Mahle pistons. The previous owner had a machine shop in his back yard and mounted some Mahle 4032 pistons on stock 6 bolt rods.
It only knocked on 1 pull when it spiked 31psi. On the others it did not, so i'm going to relieve some of the preload on the wastegate flapper and see if that fixes the spike. I think the tune is solid. But I'm going to have Drew Jones take a look at it after I swap to the Tial MVS and get it...
I just went for a ride after modifying the wg actuator rod. I think I preloaded it too much, cause now i'm spiking to 31psi.. need to mess with my bcs settings too... but the good news is it is now spooling like it is supposed to. 28psi at 4700. I think i'm gonna throw my Tial MVS on there...
Its definitely the turbo for the job. With the right cams and springs, and intake manifold it should be easy to make over 400whp on pump.I think(I pray) i'm close to 400whp right now, but the powerband is so peaky its useless. I'm about to go for a drive and see if the additional wastegate...
I'll try that next. I had the part that screws onto the wg actuator rod bottomed out(as tight as it could be, for wg preload) and upon looking at it, I don't think there was very much preload. I took it off and cut off a couple millimeters of threads and screwed it back in. I had to pull with a...
Stock 1g turbo cams as well, everything is lined up. I've preloaded the internal gate that came on it and it hasn't changed anything. I'm using the ingersoll BCS and using ecmlink boost control, i've tried playing with the settings and it makes no difference. Also running speed density. I guess...
You're seeing 26psi at 4600rpm?! i have tried everything, done countless leak tests, checked base timing, drew jones tune, and my 95 tsi awd with a 6 bolk block/2g head is STILL only making 26psi by 5700rpm on a perfectly healthy HTA Red...
Buy a new fuel pressure gauge. Install it. Set the fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line off, to whatever its supposed to be for a 95 2g turbo. Attach the vacuum line and go for a drive. Your fuel pressure could be too high.This sums it up. :thumb:
I like composite gaskets over an MLS if you aren't shooting for a lot of power(over 400ish), because of the fact that if you encounter a good bit of detonation for whatever reason, they will usually pop before your motor does.
Ordered a set of NPR 2g pistons from them over 2 months ago... STILL NOT HERE. Theres always some reason they haven't been able to ship them. :banghead: :beatentodeath:I can't say I'll order from them again..
Not only will the wheel not fit. But, if I remember correctly, the back of a small 16G wheel is flat, whereas the back of the big 16g, Evo 3 16g, and 20g wheels have a rounded convex surface on the back. So the CHRA would have to be machined as well, I think... Or you may need to use a different...
My just started doing this yesterday after some 3rd gear pulls. The weird thing is, yesterday when I was driving home like this it cleared up when I got into my neighborhood and the o2 started cycling. So I decided to test it again and built a little boost and it went back to doing the same...
Thank you for making such an informative build/how-to thread. Especially the bit about the thermostat housing' never even crossed my mind. It will help me quite a bit when I get back home and start tinkering with my engine bay.:thumb: Great build. I've read many of your threads and always...
Plan ahead. Go with a forged piston(Wiseco HD, Ross, Mahle are IMO the better choices) and rod setup(any H beam) if you can afford it. You can find good deal on either in the classifieds.If you're ballin on a budget, you can't go wrong with 1G rods and 2G pistons.
:thumb: Exactly! Whoever said the LC-1 needs to get with the times. Maybe its a little slower, but that doesn't make enough of a difference to matter IMO. The pros outweigh the cons.The MTX-L uses the same settings as the LC-1 when datalogging with ECMLink AND you can set it to be used with...
You shouldn't need V3 full to use a GM MAF without the MAF-T. I'm pretty sure the new versions of V3 Lite allow you to choose preloaded mas airflow maps for the the 1G, 2G, Evo, GM MAFs from the drop down menu.Although I could be wrong. Its been a while since I've messed with V3 Lite.
Increments of 12.5 psi.My bet is on the weather. I'm running 20w50 still, in Louisiana. In the mornings, my oil pressure is as high as I have ever seen it go on the stock guage. My bet is 100+ psi when cold. I need to change to 10w40.
Exactly. You read my mind.I guess I should ask this, as it may be a determining factor in the size turbo he decides to go with..Are you planning on sticking with a stock un-modified torque converter? Or are you planning on getting it restalled?If you are sticking with a stock...
I'm not a computer guy by any means. But even though ECMLink is great tuning software, it is still limited by the processing ability of the stock DSM ECU, whereas the AEM standalone unit doesn't have those kind of restrictions due to newer technology and can process information much faster...
Fuel Lab and Aeromotive both make good quality AFPRs. Buschur racing also sells an AFPR kit with pretty much everything you need. As does STMTuned.I'm running a stock 1G N/T FPR and its still going strong.
I recommend getting the MK4 supra TT fuel pump if you wanna save some cash' but the walbro 255hp is still a good choice. I'm running one right now with my 20G setup.With a good tune that rebuilt 7 bolt should hold 400 ft/lbs of torque for a good while, as long as you don't constantly beat the...
Just start somewhat small(16G, 20G, 50 trim), acquire some basic bolt ons and fuel system upgrades, maybe drop in a set of cams yourself, learn how to set the timing belt, and learn to properly tune your car using ECMLink. Everyone started somewhere, and you will thank yourself in the long run.
How to run 10's when you haven't run 12's seems to suit this thread well.Simply put, you don't.No one here wants to spend their time spoon feeding you information. Sorry. This forum is filled to the brim with more information than you will probably ever need.Why are you choosing a GT42...
I'll check that tomorrow just to be sure.I filled the tank up with 4.5 gallons of 93oct and it hasn't made any more knocking sounds. I tried to recreate the same sound on the video, and failed miserably haha.I also switched to NGK BR7ES gapped at .030 from BPR7ES gapped at .028. It really...
DKS 272s, supertech dual springs and titanium retainers.I pulled the valve cover and everything looked normal. All the followers were where they were supposed to be, i turned the motor over by hand and nothing was binding up..Idk whats going on.I do know that the car needs some fresh gas...
Heres a youtube video of the sound. It started after the first time I hit the 2 step after getting my exhaust/turbo setuo put back together. I was trying to see how much boost it would build compared to my old turbine housing with a cracked WG hole.Let me know what you think it is...
Are you guys serious? :rolleyes: Wow, just... wow. :|OP. There's nothing wrong with your car. That's normal. Verify your actual speed with a GPS. I know my speedometer is about 3 MPH off at 75 MPH. Look into getting an Evo 3 5th gear whenever you end up rebuilding your trans.
Dude. No.A composite head is the best to use when the mating surfaces aren't perfectly machined to a mirror finish.You must have gotten mixed up. The MLS(Multi Layer Steel) head gasket is only to be used on a motor with a decked block and milled cylinder head.As for the OP. If the block...