6th Annual GMU DSM Meet
Sponsored by Team Trinity
March 15th 2008 @ 11:00am – 4:00pm
Parking Lot J, GMU Fairfax CampusFirst off, We at Team Trinity want to say thanks to everyone who came out last year to help us support our local DSM community. All of us hope you got to play catch-up...
Nope..you didn't misunderstand my point at all. I agree about the sline locking into the output shaft. I just wish I could look at a sideview shot of the completed (welded) unit... by the graphic above, it appears that onece the spider and spider gears are removed gear #10 and gear #6 mesh...
I am by no means an expert, but your #6 piece from the diagram above is what is welded to the rear case half. This is what I derived from looking at this pic:http://www.teamrip.com/largecdiff.jpgSo it appears that in your case, if that shaft's gear (not spline) is destroyed you won't be...
Just a quick thought, but as far as I can remember, I don't think the requirements in the instructions were enough torque. I think they call for somewhere around 70 ft lbs. with oil. Not to flame or anything, but i typically slam those studs down to about 75-80 ft lbs. Never had anyone complain...
I guess i am just confused on what you mean by timing being pulled back...But on both a 1g and 2g timing is controlled by the ECU....when in WOT conditions, the ECU tries to allow the most amount of cam advancement to increase airflow to the motor...Until it detects knock (whether real or...
Someone tell me why my dumb@$$ wasted $140.00 on the Snap-On DOHC valve spring Compressor???DSM's.....Making all the cheapskates of the world "creative" since 1989
-Rob
Just a quick question, but what was your Rpms for your 1-2 and 2-3 shift. I would assume pretty high if they caused the t-belt to jump a tooth or two...Was the t-belt still attached to the motor before you pulled her apart, or was it dangling on the side in a fit of great defeat? If...
From the "novice" engine builders perspective, and i do mean novice, I am more partial to the 2g (7 bolt) motors just because there are so many of them going for so cheap on the trader, ebay, and all other discount locations. If it truly a project then, you can go through trial and error at a...
1. Justin (Will bring potato salad)
2. Jen
3. Liam (baked beans!)
4. Nikki
5. Jerry (Going to claim i brought the potato salad)
6. Keith (Ill bring Lauren)
7. Lauren (she will bring the food)
8. Bill (Yuengling)
9. Ivan (bringing coronas for '28-de-mayo' )
10. Eric (what do you need me...
They are allright. Good for keeping your wheels clean. Stops just like any other pad. Just be sure to pay attention to the "break in" and don't lock em up...at all...or else you will get this a$$ grinding noise every time you tap the brakes.
Rob
Both slowboy and mach V have bolts and washers for a decent price, I think around 30 with shipping. I feel your paine. I breake these things more than any other single part. Good luck.
-Rob
You can order individual cylinder ring sets from slowboy for like 30 bucks. They are some no-name brand, but they are good for when you manhandle the O.E.M. ones too hard.
-Rob
I am not 100% positive, but i think there is a difference between 6 bolt and 7 bolt rod and main studs. Make sure your vendor sent you the right product.
No need to bore out the cylinders unless needed. Parts are cheaper and more readily available for a standard bore size. Also, save punching out the moter, because this might not be the last time you rebuild this block.
My 2 cnets.
-Rob
VFAQ says you can use a flathead screwdriver and tap it from the side...Repeatedly.
Why are you taking this off? Are you doing a B-Shaft removal? If so you can still perform this mod without removing the plug at all.
Poke around in the wire loom behind the batterey, mounted on the firewall, above the porportioning valve. It should be the ONLY wire by itself. Black if I am not mistaken.
-Rob
It could be that your C.A.S. is 180 deg. out. Put the Cams in time again, #1 to TDC with the dowl pins up. Take off the CAS and compare it to this.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
Worth a shot.
-Rob
I stopped all my work so i can run in the house and get this question answered. The clevite 77 thrust bearings i got from slowboy racing DO NOT have the oil galley (passages/groves) cut into the as the O.E.M. ones do. Everybody else in the DSM world uses them and I have never found anybody else...
So I pulled the head off today..... But the guy with my valve compressor tool is in the Bahamas or some sh!t. Oh well. Cylinder 1, 2, and 3's exhaust valves are all charred up and crusty like they are suppose to be, but #4 is completely coated with oil....real thick oil. The piston dome for #4...
I spent the better half of yesterday trying to get hold of a air compressor to do a leak-down test, but came up empty handed. I did not check the valve-to-piston clearance so I am sorry do not have those values, also I stuck with the stock mitsu cardboard composite head gasket, so the thickness...
The turbo was my very first suspect. Because of that, a few weeks ago I pulled the t-25 and slapped in a used 14B. There was a ton of play in the t-25, but there is none in this 14B.I am also on my second coil pack (this one was tested at the junkyard before I bought it) and about the 5th or...
I agree, but I am assuming because the valve seals have had no time to wear in, and the head was decked twice that I know of, once by me and at least once by the previous owner. This is the whole reason why I am baffled. I have eliminated almost all other possibilities and all signs point to bad...
Simple question yes, but I need someone with actual knowledge to answer this. With Comp. reading of 190, 192, 192, and 190 is it possible to have bad rings? 2G, twice milled head, valve seals have less than 5 Hours of actual runtime (yes...hours), smokes like a mother (drk. grey) and runs pig...
Good question, but I am betting no. If these guys couldn't figure out how to do one:
http://pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=kb_det
I doubt it is an easy feet to acomplish without a E-prom ECU, and a DSMLink.
-Rob
Just another oppertunity for the us 2g guys to brag and b!tch about our meesly TD-04 setup.14B: 50.00
Used J-pipe: 10.00
Oil Feed line: 50.00
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Total 110.00Not having that weak a$$, non-pullin, sorry little T-25...
I will keep talking.....Why? Because you can't do anythingto shut me up, any you know what willhappen if you get out of line with me...Atleast I do my own work.....Unlike some people Iknow....I know you have the vid.... Funny how a stock awd automatic can loose to a 3-4K+ modded civic...
Just like the title says. Awhile ago my car significantly overheated. I ended up decking the head, changing valve seals, water pump, timing belt and such. Being the inexperienced 7bolt engine builder, I broke the Cam Position Sensor. I replaced it, and the car still ran poorly. After many...
For all those wondering about the color scheem on this car;
As of '97 all Talon's and Eclipses Upper model cars with leather that are red and black, {ie...Gs-T, GSX, TSI, ect...} came with the black dashbaoard and matching trim pices. This also was an option got a GS. Most likley with tan...
Well.......
Calle Jessie at slowboy, got an idea. He says"put a cas on your car, and see if it works"...yeah, cause it;s supper easy and all. The install takes like 20 seconds and retarted monkeys can do it, but now for the trickey part.... The Static inverter. being it that I am not a master...
It's ok guys.... I think I have enough knowhow on cars to not run it without the thermostat. I just pulled it out for problem diagnosis. The car doesn't even run yet, so I am not too worried about it. Thanks
-Robert
It's not that. I could only hope for something that simple. If you were to pull the wire off of the coil for #1 with the car running there is no effect in how the engine runs, meaning there is no spark coming out of that coil pack. the same goes for #4