I'm looking for specific information for those who are using the ETS 2.5" BOV INTERCOOLER PIPE ... I got the pipe thru STM and it's real pretty but I'd like to see how others have routed the recirc back into the intake... It's not rocket science but I'd like to see some pics.I have...

Still could use some help or advise... -Raffi

Ok, so nothing yet...Is there a way to test the idle switch response? Electrically the switch works but I'm not sure if the signal is getting back to the ECU. Out might have something to do with the open loop condition ignoring it or it might not be functioning but the idle does not change...

DVOM is an old term for Digital Volt Ohm Meter, most call them a DMM these days for Digital Multimeter.Yeah, clearly something is going wrong in closed loop. I ran a log.last night and everything looked and sounded perfect during cold start and warm-up... after the car was warm I blipped the...

This is probably going to be long thread as I come up to speed with the intricacies of the the 1G but I've got a few questions/problems that I'm hoping you all can help me with.My 1G seems to start and idle beautifully until it is warm at which point it begins to run a little rough, in my...

Mine is an occasional weekend car as well. I'm not overly concerned with the vacuum situation... I would prefer a smoother idle that I think the vacuum would get me but even then I don't really care too much about it. It is what it is until I get around to building a new motor. :thumb:I just...

Got it started back up last night with a bunch of new parts... Gates Racing timing belt, new idlers, etc. I was there and I had them to put in. The exhaust cam skipped a total of 1 tooth so I don't think I've done any damage, I got real lucky :)I need to check and set base timing, verify...

It's close...First I removed the upper timing belt cover to check the cam timing and while the engine was running I dropped a 6mm Allen wrench that took an odd bounce and got sucked in to the belt between the belt and intake gear... The engine still ran with the key wedged between the gear and...

Not yet... I f'ed up big time on the way and am now fixing stuff that wasn't previously broken. 15 test is now several hours of repair just to get back to where I was.FML... More details later.-Raffi

I'm not looking for 'budget' coilovers... the choices are generic Megan/D2/Ksport and the rest of the clones at the cheap end and things like muellerized Olins or KW at over $3.5K. Ground control on good shocks is an option but I was originally thinking of Tein until I read of some general...

OK then... I'll let you all know how they work out. -Raffi

I was about to put my money down on Tein SS coilovers when I stumbeld on a thread mentioning BCracings' BR coilovers... this lead me to the RM models. Tein's don't seem to have a very high regard. There seems to be a lot of people on Megan's but I'm looking for higher quality and more track...

Made a huge difference for me... couldn't hurt to try. Low to mid speed on the DA and medium pressure, let the product do the work.Replacing the glass = $$$-Raffi

Unfortunately no...if it's just build up it will probably work...I'd be very nervous using a rubbing compound... as a rule compounds need to be followed with a glaze or other steps to get all the scratches and swirls they leave behind out. Remember glass is soft.-Raffi

Oops... fixed! -Raffi

My 90 DSM had one major problem... lots of hard water spots on the glass. The front windshield and mirrors were so bad I even considered replacing the windshield. No matter what I did the glass was cloudy and nothing I tried worked i.e. Windex, simple green, vinegar... I even tried claybar...

I'll post back once I've tested things...The gauge was tested with a pump and it's accurate.-RaffiNo worries... it's all good!Been covered in the now infamous post #9... thanks.-Raffi

Denial? :confused:See the plan in post #9... specifically the first thing I plan on doing...Lower vacuum with big cams is not uncommon... I'm on stock cams.-Raffi

See post #9-Raffi

Nope

750 RPM... set BISS recently. TPS is working.-Raffi

I confirmed last night the accuracy of the VDO gauge... my two gauges, VDO boost/vacuum and commercial vacuum gauge connected at the PCV valve (like the manual recommends) match. There is a bit of jitter on the fast acting vacuum gauge but this is normal with the pulses from the engine.Thanks...

The gauge is new and I believe accurate... I will confirm this with a second gauge later.Can the timing be off one tooth and still have the car run normal? Starts fine, No knock etc... That seems like a lot!-Raffi

OK I did a search and everything associated with low idle vacuum usually follows with drivability problems... I don't have that.Car starts instantly cold or hot and when cold does the normal fast idle until warm... drives/pulls great... BISS is set... idles normal when cold or hot *except*...

Again, has anyone been successful in getting this to work?-RaffiPAGING Ryan S. Detwiler (a.k.a. Memphetic)... If anyone knows him please ask him to contact me.

OK, that's two of us... any one else?-Raffi

I guess this goes out to anyone who purchased the MMCDROID interface a few months ago... mine is not working right and I was wondering if anyone else has had issues.Basically I am getting very erratic measurements... even with the engine off, but the key in the ign position, I can't get a...

Before you bolt stuff up you might want to check the head to see if is warped... just in case. -Raffi

Standard ARP studs are good for 700+ HP on 4g63's running up to 40 PSI... I don't think you can blame them for a blow out at 30 PSI... I still say the head might not have been torqued correctly. The ARP L19's are good and expensive. If paying more for ARP L19 over standard ARP makes you feel...

I have two of these consoles and I've noticed that it fits tighter in one than the other... It's possible it *might* not pop out but it's still not the most solid mounting method.It was a lot of work but I'm glad I did it. Gauges and panel fit securely and the vent works great! Wiring is done...

It was a lot of work... but it needed to be done otherwise I wouldn't have run the panel at all and just relocated the gauges somewhere else. This was the ideal spot but I wanted a working vent.-RaffiUpdate: still waiting for the RTV to finish outgassing its noxious fumes before I can...

That will be easy... simply plug the vent behind the bezel.One more thing, these bezels are painted and the paint is very shiny so the panels really stands out against the matte dash/console... if you scroll back to the pic of the center console I posted with the 5 gauges the bezel in that...

Completed proto...Side view...I may just spend some time sanding and cleaning this one up rather than making a new one... I was worried that piecing it together would make it flimsy but its very solid.It fits solid in the dash too... No chance of vibrating out during a drive... Given...

That's a real good question... I'm thinking not for long!The serrated ends are supposed to hold it in but with the mass of the gauges I think the panel will pop out of place over a hard bump.My idea is to tie this panel into the air duct for 2 reasons... 1, it will direct air thru the vent...

They can be found on ebay for around $15...

So as part of my reconfiguration of the center console I'm installing a vent bezel to mount 2 more gauges... one of theseNow I've searched the forum and obviously there are several people who have done this but the one detail that's always missing is what to do about the air vent! :notgood...

the harness with battery light wire can be accessed in the wheel well after you remove the liner... I re-routed the wires from here and passed them thu the grommet for the AC relay box (new the MC).-Raffi

:tease: Torco = Snake oilGood choice on getting the wires... Just to be clear, when I said NGK were cheap I meant inexpensive. They are good wires but the Accel wires are better!If you're coming out tonight I'll see if I can dig up that cover for your valve cover... BTW, do you still...

Also check your hazard light switch... if it's not working right your turn signals won't work. Easiest thing is to swap in a known good one if you have it.-Raffi

I second that!!! Absolute craptastic waste of money.I'm running Hella H4 shells with SilverStar bulbs... great output! Very bright and with no glare like bozos that run HIDs in these non-HID headlights.-Raffi

New plug wires are you friend... Moving the coil pack may bandaid the problem but in the end the problem will still be there. A lot of people use NGK wires. They are relatively cheap and OEM quality. I went with Accel on mine. COP is a good choice but a much much larger investment.-Raffi

For the most part all the harnesses are basically the same... I've played with a few but I am using the Greddy version just to keep things in the same family... especially since I contacted Greddy to complain!Stereo guys that understand subs and amps are not what I would consider experts...

Come on! Lil'help!!!-Raffi

I've got a real wierd issue with a Greddy full auto turbo timer 2, the remote display version if it makes a difference,When I installed the first one it seemed to work fine so I buttoned things up and went for a drive. A few minutes in the timer beeped and started the countdown cycle! Now...

I do have a spare sender... but you really want an aftermarket gauge. The factory gauge is worthless with its slower than continental drift movement.Give me a call later. -Raffi

Panels are going in the new carRaffi

Read - Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Synthetic Fliuds-Raffi

:tease: Your carThat front part of the fender liner is toast... I was gonna tell you when you were doing your brakes that I have a spare drivers side you can have.Might have the passenger side too... I got to look.-Raffi

Actually VAG is short for Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft or just Volkswagen AG.AG is the abreviation for the German word for a "Corporation".VAG includes Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, &#352;koda, SEAT, Bentley, Lamborghini and Bugatti.-Raffi <---- is also a Volkswagen guyBTW, The Ros-Tech...