Got a 95 TSI. Is there any vendors that offer replacement sheetmetal? Need a rear quarter and rocker...??

I was skeptical of the boost leak as well. I didn't quite understand why a leak would come and go.No CEL.Replaced the plugs and wires. also replaced most of the vacuum tubing.

Thanks going to check the system for any leaks.

So I've had this issue for years. Never put a finger on it yet...Sometimes the car will pull real strong. Other times barely at all. Never found a correlation to any particular condition. Hot, cold, summer, winter nothing.Nothing seems different between one moment or the next...The only...

These are not the "true" full manuals, just the back-ups. The ones I used to have were like a couple hundred pages not 50 - 60 pages.Any other ideas?

Thanks!I just gave them my email, how long for the download key?

Anyone have any links to a factory 2G manual? All the links I hit came up dead....

So does any one have any pics or links to a rocker panel job. I was figuring the same, that no one is going to see the work underneath the skirts. I just wanted to get a baseline as to what the job looks like.

Yes I am talking "preformed". Example, fenders, quarters, rockers, door skins.....I couldn't imagine even the most experienced tin knocker is going to bang out a rear quarter....

So I've been reading a bunch of posts on rust repairs in the 2G cars. I cant say I ever remembering anyone talking about a source of aftermarket sheetmetal. Anyone know of any sources? I'm not really interested in the junkyard stuff, because here in New England its all mostly rusted in the first...

Just my two cents here...Even if you can find out the "original" manufacturer of the part, it doesnt mean you will be able to buy it from them. They might not sell to the general public, the part maybe considered proprietary in design or one of many different variables.I repair CNC...

Do the dealers even sell these anymore?

Does anyone know where to pick up a set? I cant seem to find them at all?Any suggestions? Big Thanks!

I'm surprised that there is no one rebuilding the rear axles for these cars.Thanks for the info. I've still been searching wrecking yards in the mid-west...

So living in New England getting these things apart is impossible. Heat, press, BFH, nothing seems to work.So what I did on the passenger side was replace the bearing and axle out of a junk yard in Texas.My question is, where can you find these components new? I haven't seen rear axles...

There's a place in Windsor, CT called Forced Induction. They specialize in our type of cars...I dont have the number on hand but if you need let me know..

Didnt think about a photo, casting numbers on the knuckles were different, which I suspected.Are the part numbers stamped on them?

Anyone else have any thoughts?????

I love it!Sorry to let my old job of doing alignments on a daily basis come to light.My eye is fairly tuned via experence over the years!! :DOK!So I have discovered an answer.Is it called a knuckle or spindle? Anyways...After removing the suspect knuckle (1), I laid it...

No I havent tried to adjust the toe yet. I replaced the knuckle/spindle last night. Dont know for sure how many degrees its off, but visually its off a football field, and after looking again this morning, the camber is really negative as well.Still cant place my finger on this and it...

Thanks for the thoughts! If everyone is saying geometry wise they are all the same, more than likely the knuckle is damaged. I cannot see manufacturing tolerances being that far off.The alignment on the car before the knuckle installation was fine. Things only changed after installing a used...

Possibly, I just wanted to make sure first. Doesn't seem right. I just knocked the old axle out of the old knuckle, and tomorrow I'll swap them...just was hoping there might be a geometry thing..??

So curious, are they all the same from 95 and up?I've replaced one ( frozen hub bearing to axle ) and didnt have any issues. With this one installed the tire seems to have excessive toe in, and the steering wheel is now crooked to boot.The car is a 95 and the seller claimed it was from a...

So I guess this is what Im left with:MB864932 r/r knuckle $169.32 MB892400 r/r hub assembly $146.57 MB950210 r/r backing plate $57.24It sucks! Being that the car is a daily driver, I cant afford to leave it sitting in the garage while I source parts. So basically I have to build...

So am I confused? It was brought up that you can get a new outer cup for the axle. That would be the side closest the brakes, right? I'm figuring since I cannot seperate the axle from the bearing, this was the way to go. Purchase a new hub bearing and cup, seperate the outer cup from the old...

Curious, how do you actually seperate the joint from the axle? The know the side closest the dif just pops out....All this stuff is crazy, I'm glad there are alternatives. If no one sold that "stub" axle we would be in tough shape...I'm almost starting to think I should stock up on...

Ok so maybe the info wasnt so helpful. Anyone want to chime in on additional sources?squeak104 comment?

Thanks squeak104 for the help on the axle. I wish I had known of that before. It will save me a couple of bucks for sure, not having to replace the knuckle.The thing that also sucks it getting used parts that are not rusted together here in New England.I havent been able to find any...

So I'm sure this topic has been touched upon many times. I cannot get the axle to separate from the bearing. Anyone know of a good (cheap) source to pick up the knuckle, axle and backing plate for the emergency brakes? All the local auto parts stores dont list the rear axles either, what a PITA!!!

Cheap? Thats too good to be true type of cheap at least in my neighborhood. Call around and get some other quotes....

Problem is I dont have any different than what the factory put in..It's really tough to watch the road and the tach while under hard acceleration as well.Should this be something I just let the dealer work on?

Just curious, if it was an ignition problem wouldnt it be throwing mis-fire codes???

Already installed a new valve cover gasket, replaced plugs and wires.Installed a ACT clutch, so its not some cheap Autozone unit...

I appreciate the video, but it happens so fast, I dont notice anything. That maybe the reason its a buck verses a slip...

Thats the point. How do I figure which it is? Its a daily driver so just ripping the tranny out is not much of an option.I just drove it to the packy, and it ran like a raped ape... No slip or nothing?

I have checked everything and anything. I'm loosing my mind on this. A year ago I changed the clutch, TO bearing and the fork. I guess I just cant remember if the issue went away or not...

So I'm going to throw this out there, I cant figure any other explanation.The car has a buck in 3rd thru 5th. Not all the time, no CES lights or anything. Did boost leak checks and all. The car did have a nasty valve cover leak that I was thinking may be dripping down on the clutch...

I've been interested for some time now. Cant believe with everything out there nobody has done this yet.....????

Wow, I didnt get that as badmouthing anything...Just sounds like a reasonable question. Maybe one of the blades broke off due to a manufacturing defect?

Thanks again!Yep, Connecticut has emission testing and they check for them at most stations. Isnt really a big deal got to much power anyways....LOL

Good! I was thinking the same thing, just wanted some other thoughts...thanks guys!

So my car has 193K on it. Think the cat may be spent?

So alternator is putting out 14 plus volts....

Yeah, not to argue, its only when I start the car and only when the a/c is on. Every other time its dead on. I figure the ISC is ok...?

So I did a search and nothing helpful...Car idles fine under normal conditions. I've noticed recently that on the first start cold or hot it will usually stall. When I flip on the a/c it idles at 500rpm at best. Any thoughts?

Will it start in neutral?

Two studs? Huh, should be the biggest..

Are you using a stock alternator? If so, the positive is on the large stud sticking out of the back. There is a small bracket with a small screw attaching a ground wire in a different location.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't there two temp sensors? One for the gauge and one for the ECM?

Autozone does that's were I got my belt from, its just a pain if you have someone that doesnt know what they are doing..