The 8 blade has a larger compressor inducer, therefore the inlet on the cover is slightly larger to accept the compressor wheel...So a cover from a 8 blade won't fit a 7 blade wheel correctly. And vice versa. There are also many different cover molds. What sort of info are you looking for in...
Changing the filter to a cone will greatly increase the intake/turbo noise your hear. Along with switching to a hard intake pipe. Everything sounds normal to me, just letting the car breathe more!
First off, ditch the 16g and go with something along the lines of a hx35 or 20g. Both have the capabilities to bolt on as easy as a 16g and make 400whp MUCH easier. A wideband and a boost gauge is what you'll need. And for tuning, definitely go with dsmlink, as everyone else has said. Check out...
I dislike the look of the rpf1s unless they're 17x9. 1g's can fit a 17x9 with +40 offset, but you need coilovers (or trim off the strut perch) and slight trimming of the rear trailing arm. Plus a 255/40 tire.
Beginning of summer 2014 I twisted the splines on the output shaft. And that's been the only real "major" problem. My stock block, with 135k, takes all the beatings I give it, nearly 365 days a year. Sees 30psi from my hx35 everytime it's driven. Just needs a new oil pump gasket because it leaks...
It's been a little over 1.5 years on this setup, daily driven and beat on a little bit every time it's driven. I even still have balance shafts :hellyeah: But as Crash said, I feel like this is pretty common now adays. I'm tempted to go for a bit more, but it scares me because it's my only car.
If you know someone who can weld, easiest way would be getting a flange and having it welded to the stock manifold. I would trust that over any ebay manifold.
Why are you set on keeping the stock turbo? I don't believe 300whp is quite achievable on the t25. If so, not easily. There are many replacement turbos that will bolt right up in stock location without changing a thing that are capable of 300whp and more easily. Also, check out other members...
Definitely not the adapter, that would really throw off the positioning of the turbo and would mean you'd need a custom downpipe and so on. I've never seen that exact manifold in my life, but many people run ewg off of the manifold.I personally like it off the o2 housing. I don't believe...
Take a look at my mods list, I'm currently running an hx35. Also take a peek at what other members are doing with similar setups to get an idea of what direction to head.It's hard/waste of time (no offence) to lay out a complete mods list when there is already all kinds of info out there to...
It sounds like you already need to roll your fenders using a 10mm spacer. SO using a 15mm spacer, and pushing you wheel and tire out farther, you will definitely need to roll and probably pull your fenders. USE A SPACER LESS THAN 10MM IF YOU WANT TO FIT WITHOUT ROLLING YOUR FENDERS.
That doesn't make any sense? If 10mm in close why would you want to go farther out? Did you mean 5mm? And you're most likely not lowered 2.5-3in. Look up your springs and see what they're rated at.
I recently switched to a full 3in straight pipe, turbo back. Nothing but the pipe. I like to be loud and obnoxious and this does the job. But my two favorite mufflers are the thermal and atr pitbull (Hard to find). But a 3in downpipe is a must.Clip of my car straight piped.
Thank you Justin, that's exactly what I needed to know. I may just find another one and send this one to be checked out. Do you recommend anyone in particular?
That's what I figured. Now I need to know if the replacement wheels on ebay are not cheap pieces of junk. Or where should I order a replacement cover and wheel?
So, I recently had some complications with my hx35. Currently I need to decide if I should continue with my current turbo, rebuild it, and reuse it. Or buy another one. Upon removing the turbo, due to excesive in and out shaft play, I found that the compressor wheel has been contacting the...
Hx35 can definitely get you over 500whp in t3 form, but Hx40 would get you closer to 600 easier. I personally have a bolt on hx35 making 400+ There's a lot of info on holsets, so start reading.
What turbo are you running? If the water lines are still connected then it's pretty much not needed to wait or have a turbo timer. IMO, it's completely uneccesary to have a turbo timer. Just don't go boosting then shut the car off. Save your money and by more go fast parts. Your turbo most...
First, we don't have headers. It's a manifold. And I also agree with getting a evo 3 as a cheap, but great upgrade. You could also save your pennies for an FP mani. That's what I run and I love it. If it's going to be for a daily I recommend staying with a cast mani...
I was running 30psi on a bolt on hx35 with a single walbro 255 rewired and 1150cc injectors. I had no troubles with that, I am now running a Walbro 450.
The other day while driving to work, the engine suddenly cut off. I coasted to a stop and tried starting it again. But didn't here the fuel pump. It also isn't building any fuel pressure.After getting the car home I swapped in a Walbro 450, took the 255 out and put in a new fuel filter...
Nothing NEEDS to be trimmed, I trimmed the top piece off on my old car because I think it looks better.This is all assuming you're talking about the bumper cover, not the actual bumper. The bumper will need to be trimmed to fit the fmic or removed. Up to you.
It doesn't matter if they're running a rota or not. A 17x7 wheel is a 17x7 wheel. You should have no problem fitting it, 7in is still pretty skinny. With a higher offest like that it moves the wheel inwards towards the strut.
Hx35, t3 or t3 twin scroll, e85, stock block, cams and you'll be very close to 500whp if not over. That along with some fuel mods and DSMlink and you'll be set.
Yes, but it's not recommended. It creates a lot of turbulence going from such a big area a funneling to the 2in. Just look into getting something like the Injen intake or something similar and a good filter.
If you get a FMIC kit it will come with all new piping and you just select the option for 1g bov when buying it. Or if you're keeping the stock garbage piping for some reason, there are 2g to 1g bov adapters.
IMO turbo timer is a completely pointless, waste of money. If you're still using a watercooled turbo, even more pointless. Just don't be doing pulls right before you turn the car off. Let it sit for a minute before you turn it off.
I have that forge on my car. I wouldn't get a vta bov unless you're going to be running speed density or gm maft. It will not run right. Forge makes a replica 1g recirulated too. I love my forge, holds 30psi all day.
Punishment is VERY close to bolt on. No kit will be complete bolt on and I loved my punishment kit. For a 1g bov look in the classifieds. There's always a couple for sale. :thumb:
Megan or theraml exhaust. Punishment FMIC and 1g bov. Like said either don't cheap out on a bov.The SRS exhaust is also a pretty cheap stainless exhaust on ebay.
It was actually dyno proven that dumped made a bit more power.And as for controlabity, I'm at 30psi recirculated and have no problems. I would think the gate would effect that more.
From my knowledge there's not too many FF manis for DSMs. I do konw JMFab and Devo2ning make a nice manifold. And a lot of the bigger shop cars will custom fab their own mani. If you know how to weld that would be your best bet or else be prepared to empty your wallet for a nice mani.
Like iugrad said, stock block should be perfectly fine for 325 area. If you already have it out and are looking to do something to it, do 1g rod/2g piston combo. That's what I plan on doing this year and that should be safe up to 500whp or more with a good tune and all arp hardware. As for turbo...