Gotcha. I think I might have a spare, so if that’s the only apparent risk maybe I’ll see how this all works out. I can always fall back on using the launch control input on my CDI if I have to, so the strain gauge and GCU purchase won’t be a waste. Thanks for your insight!

Emissions reasons and clogging the cat as well, I assume. This is definitely not being done for pops and bangs lol!Yeah man, that's why I'm here, so thank you!Are you thinking the PTU will be damaged by voltage spikes due to the ground being lifted?

Will it damage the PTU? Does the PTU have to "boot up" or is there some kind of "startup" delay? I don't see why there would be anything of the sort, but I'm here to learn! I have random misfire detection turned off so we don't have to worry about that.That's exactly what I was afraid of, but...

Simply because I don't want to go through the hassle of a standalone. I'd more than likely pull the entire harness out and make a new one if I went that route, and DSMLink is doing everything else I need it to, so it seems a bit much to go to all that just for a strain gauge setup... It would...

You have to also factor in the cost of socketing, which most ECUs will need. That brings the price to $740, but ECMTuning still has the non-eprom socket conversion listed as out of stock, so used is all you can get unless you have an eprom ECU. They still can't get chips as far as I'm aware...

I was on the phone with S1 a couple times and told the guy what I was doing and how. He never mentioned any relays or resistors, so I never tried anything. He did say that my knobs were part of a new batch with a firmware upgrade, so they were going to look into that. That would suck if that's...

I was looking for a spark cut rather than a fuel cut, that’s all. I was under the impression that fuel cut by itself doesn’t work as well as spark cut for this. Also I’m not sure how that would respond to PWM’ing the power back in.

Yes, it's a complete deal! They use/recommended the PPG strain gauge knob. Here is a link: https://www.xineering.com/gcu.htmlI had that S1 gear knob wired directly to the launch limiter input on the ARC2 CDI, and configured the S1 knob to pull its output to ground. The CDI would see that as a...

You're correct; ECMLink with a dogbox! I'm not going to rewire the CDI as that's working just fine; the diagram I posted was just so you can see how it's wired up. I can't use the secondary fuel maps since I'm running flex fuel.I would be connecting the strain gauge shift knob to a gear...

The CDI wiring is how the plug n play harness connects, I just drew that in so there was accurate info to reference. I assumed the tach would drop out for the shift as well, but the ignition will only be cut for a couple hundred milliseconds, so I’m not concerned with that. I was more wondering...

I'd like to use a load cell shift knob to cut ignition during shifts but I don't want to move to a standalone ECU. A company called Xineering has a gear controller that will open a circuit (typically the 12V on a CoP setup) to cut spark and then PWM it back in for a smoother gear change. It...

I have a 5th gear shift fork that seems to be a bit worn (95-96 AWD trans), so I went to my spare trans (97-99 AWD) to swap the shift fork from that. Turns out the hole for the roll pin is at a different angle so it won't fit. I spoke to Jacks Trans about this and he said they should all be the...

My first DSM was a 95 Talon TSi. Beat to hell, dented all up. Some kid blew the turbo or something and had an eBay turbo kit that he was going to put on it, along with some huge body kit. It sat for a couple years and my girlfriend's cousin told me about it, and told me how much power people...

Two worthless pumps? :confused::confused:

If you paint the door, I'd tape a garbage bag or a piece of cardboard over where it gets black so you can just swap that out every couple months with minimal expense. Or just always have the cutout open. :sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:

As far as the Exedy hp/tq rating, you'd have to look up that specific model to tell that. I've never seen a TOB that doesn't clip onto the shift fork for these cars, so I don't know what that's all about lol. You could call Exedy and talk to them about your specific application just to make sure.

If the clutch fork isn't centered on the "window", then that means you just need a shim under the pivot ball inside the bell housing where the fork mounts. Very common. As far as the weak pedal feel, all I can say is the I had a clutch from Advance in my Talon years ago and it felt the same way...

If I'm thinking of the correct spot, you're referencing the three bolts right next to each other, and they have a spring and ball bearing behind them. You can't replace those or modify them that I'm aware of, because they're the stops for the gear shifter. Maybe "stops" isn't the correct word...

Lol I wasn't questioning you at all, I was wondering what this heat mark is that you're seeing, for my own knowledge. The entire electrode looks the same to me, at least on this screen, so I was hoping you could circle the spot in question where this heat mark is. I understand that you want the...

Posting to see track results and updates, but I'm also wondering what biglady is seeing on the spark plug ground strap that says the ignition timing is too low. I saw the black specks indicating detonation, but I can't tell anything about the ground strap other than the coating or whatever is...

Not sure if you got this figured out already, but I just set up an AEM WB in a car and I just tried the different options until the ECU readout for the wideband matched the WB gauge... I really prefer the Innovate stuff myself. What you did for the switch point is what I would've done as well...

Yes, for closed loop operation only. Most street cars run 11.0:1-11.5:1 under load. Every car is different, so there's not one perfect answer.

The 450 pump sock will not work because it hits on the screws holding the basket to the tank, so I used a sock from another 255 pump. The socks are different, but the intake holes are the same diameter and they seem interchangeable enough. Below is a picture of the pumps mounted, and the 450 has...

OK, so this article will detail the modifications I made to a Full Blown dual fuel pump hanger for a 2G GSX in order to fit a Walbro 450 alongside a Walbro 255 pump, and also to generally improve the overall design of the hanger. I bought a Full Blown double pumper hanger used, and I wasn't...

Thanks for the replies! As far as the cylinders being out of round, I suppose that's entirely possible. Everything was checked originally with regular ARPs, and then I switched to H11s last year or the year before. I have the meth lines switched to stainless braided ones, so no more issues...

Ok, so these pistons had about 6k miles on them. Obviously, cylinder 2 blew up because the car ran low on gas and it popped. The question I have, is why are the skirts all scuffed up? Everything I can find online about scuffed up skirts points to lack of lube, PTW clearances off, wrist pin...

Also, I'd zero the fuel sliders and only tune with the MAF Comp sliders, once you get global and deadtime set.

AirflowPerRev was apparently too low, kicking me out of closed loop.

OK, someone familiar with SD please take a look at this log. I've been beating my head against the wall trying to get this thing dialed in, and it's starting to hurt! Mods in my profile are up to date, and I know my FMIC is being heatsoaked (ETS on order!).I am trying to get BoostEst to...

Is there a reason that it went into open loop mode before you did the pull? Weird. Also, in the first part of the log, I'd play around some more with the VE table and try to get those fuel trims more inline, but that's just me. Your logged boost is higher than BoostEst numbers for the pull, so I...

FWIW I agree completely with Calan and Gofer. I know my car will barely idle on its own at like 17:1, and even with the stock motor, it sounded like it had hellacious cams when idling that lean lol. I do know the Innovate widebands need to be calibrated, and also I thought DSMLink has a specific...

6 bolt in my 95 GSX. I can't figure out why it will not stay in closed loop during very light throttle cruising. It doesn't stay in closed loop during idle, either. Here is a clip of a log that shows what it does. It will basically cut fuel like it's in decel mode, but as you can see in the log...

Boost leak test.

Jb2: Haha, I got it off a buddy a few years ago for $40 because he thought it was blown! I have no clue where he got it from, other than eBay in general. I don't think he even remembers anymore.And yes, boost97, thank you, I am aware of the MAF inconsistencies up there. I actually thought it...

Bringing this back from the dead. My laptop ran out of battery and I lost my log, but I turned up the boost to 30psi after upgrading my WG springs, and this thing is giving me 52lbs/min and maxing out my MAF lol. Just wanted to post this up, since I was having trouble finding much airflow info...

I've always used Heavy Shockproof and MT-90 mixed in my tranny. Cold shifting sucks, but once it warms up it's fine. Haven't had any issues that I'm aware of with oiling or anything. Fluid has been changed only a couple times over the past 3-4 years..

I ran around 25psi without it, but everyone's setup is different. Right now, mine's activated by DSMLink, and I think it comes on around 17-18psi. Without the meth, I was only able to run 6* max timing, and spraying about a 50/50 mix with a single large AEM injector, I was able to run 17*...

Yep yep! And FWIW, I've been running the Heavy Shockproof in my rear for like 4 years now. No issues.

Yea, meth injection won't get you much with boost that low... I have the AEM nozzles; they're great because they have the check valve integrated right in with em at the end of the line, so you get minimal leakage/drainage after you're done spraying.

Street tune should be fine, but I'd definitely make sure you're not knocking after you change the mix. I know when I changed my mix to more meth instead of 50/50, I was able to get a bit more out of it, but like they said, it depends on your current setup/tune.

So the car is set up for SD? Does 'Link know this? Lol. Link comes set up to run a stock (MAF) car. It makes some kind of sense that if the ecu doesn't see a signal from the MAF (which isn't being used), then it wouldn't know how much fuel to inject. And even with my 1200cc injectors, my idle...

I've heard before of some gs having issues with aftermarket AFPR's letting the fuel pressure drain off when the car is turned off. I know my AEM one does it. The delay in starting would be caused by the fuel pump having to refill/pressurize the fuel system before the injectors will squirt enough...

Lol Spring Grove, eh? That's where I went to school; I still live around there!Anyways, unless there's something wrong with your stock ignition system, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Healthy stock ignition systems have been proven time and time again to work well with well over 400whp...

Every time I do a BLT, I have air in the crankcase: Air will leak past the rings (even new good ones!) all day long, and air will get past the turbo oil seal (even good seals!).Forget that junk PCV valve and get one of these: Boomba Racing, Inc. :: Check ValveBest thing I ever did!

Yep, what BrianWheat said lol. And I'd recommend an oil filter relocation kit. The JEG's one I have works like a charm, but I had to upgrade to stainless braided hoses because mine kept blowing off lol.JEGS Performance Products 51715 JEGS Remote Oil Filter Mounts

I ran open DP for a few years. Everyone looks at the car since its so loud, but it did tend to keep kids from wanting to race, since it sounds bad ass. I finally got tired of my ears ringing every time I drove it for more than 10 minutes, so I put an exhaust on with a cutout for when I wanna...

I did compare the lobes of the Comp to the lobes of the stock intake cam, and the Comp lobes do match up.

knochgoon, this is about exactly how my brand new motor sounds. Everything inside is brand new, including the lifters. You said if the engine makes that much noise, there may be a problem; what problem? I've never had a brand new engine before, and this one is a 2.3L stroker with Comp 101400...

I have just installed a built 6 bolt stroker motor with Comp 101400 cams, and it does have aftermarket springs/retainers. I'm not sure exactly what springs they are anymore since I got em so long ago. Anyways, I couldn't get the car to start, and eventually found out that the groove the CAS fits...

I remembers that when I installed te cas, I set it to TDC, but it didn't line up with the groove in the cam. Turns out that's what the problem is, since I unbolted the cas, set everything back to TDC, and slid the cas into the groove in the cam. The bolt holes don't line up at all, and the plug...