With the car running you get constant 12 v to red wire at the relay. the blue/black has key power from ignition system.

Sounds like something in the trans is locked up? Did u accidentally shift into gear when installing?

Why would you want to restrict your flow with 2 1/2? Yes you can do that if you got the piping and tight on funds.

Check the caliper. It might have a torn piston boot causing it to lock up.

Perform a leak down test. Remove the oil cap, radiator cap. Pressurize the system. Checked for air leaks from oil cap. if bubbles come form radiator cap, need a head gasket.

Make sure you have the axle joint and axle stub aligned correctly. If you didnt mark them you could get a vibration.

I would recommend the sway bar kit first. If you're looking for a certain feel, try getting an adjustable sway bar and adjust for your taste and feel.

You could remove the sender unit and make sure you plug the connection. If you got aftermarket gauge dont need it.

I would check it out before even thinking about it. Why does he think its the balance shaft or oil pump? Look on whats been done to it before? Maintenance done?

I second the motor mount issue. Check the mounts first. Thats the place i would start.

Most of my vehicel is either -6 or -8. The size depends on what you are using it for. I used lines for fuel lines, pcv system, and external oil cooler.

What was the reason for the trans grenading?

what part of the engine is it located? What are the wire colors?

2000 Dakota SLT 4x4. Need it for the house work.

Other than splicing the wires, everything else stays the same.Dont have to remove the switch. Just have to plug in connector after your splice the two wires. All you are doing by spliceing the two together is making the car believe that the switch is engaged.

What shop is it? I live in the area.

Yeah sounds pretty high but do you know what is included in the price? Are fluids? Is there a warranty from the shop after install? Is the place have a good reputation?

All depends on the factors. You say you got the tools so thats covered. You got friends to help you im guessing. Do you have a book like Chiltons to help with small questions and removal? Do you also have another vehicle to get around? Me personally, i would pocket the 1K and spend it on...

If i remember correctly, the safc II has an updated look and better and more points to adjust fuel. SAFC II is definitely the better of the two. Newer models are normally better for functionability.

Did you check continuity of the CAS? Maybe the wire that supplies voltage to the CAS that you dont have is cut or chaffing.

Yeah i show update pics when it warms up. Too cold to lay down marglass and fiberglass. Need a good 55-60 degrees to set good.

I got 255-35-19's on my car and in planning on installing fender flares. Gonna cut out the fenders for clearance and rivet on fiberglass fender flares. Then going to break out the body tools and fiberglass the flare edges to make a smooth contour. Give me the perfect tire clearance for auto-x...

When it comes to oil cooling and oil flow, never mess around with it. Fix it asap. If you're there do a oil cooler upgrade with steel braided lines. No a necessity but def an upgrade.

did u check the rims when u bought it. If one of the wheels was bent and was put on the front, you can have a vibration. When the tech balanced the rim, did he check for bends? the rim and tire can balance out but the rim could still be bent and cuase that.

The gasket has a raise on it for a reason. Once put on and tightened, that ridge will help make a good sealing surface.

i did the same 1ga to 1gb swap. looks so much better without the flip-ups. the black wire on the 1gb lights is your low beam. that connectes to the red/white wire. the red/blue from 1gb connects to red/blue on the 1ga connector.This is your 12 v constant. the red on 1gb connects to the red on...

Read this. It may give you ab etter understanding of temp.Read this. It may give you ab etter understanding of temp. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/24458-egt-too-high-exhaust-gas-temperature-gauge-gage-maximum-merged.html

the pieces in the picture look like shift valves in your trans valve body. that could def be the cause of your randon and crappy shifting.

got an oil leak on the lower portion of the engine. i think im looking at the turbo return line leaking and possible oil pan. the oil gets all over bottom section of firewall, rear of pan, and all over transfer case on back. no oil higher than pan on firewall side, but does wrap up probably due...

you should be good. spinning a bearing is hard. as long as its torqued and seated properly, a little lube slipping into the side aint gonna mess anything up. id ship it.

yeah fram is cool til it clogs your oil and fuel supply and either seize the engine or got no fuel flow.

i got my fans wired directly to battery. works great, i got rid of all my factory fan wiring. i used an extra piaa relay and wired both power sides to battery with 40 amp inline fuse. grounded fan negative to frame. used switched ground side with factory thermo sensor as my ground switch to turn...

think bout running aeromotive fuel pump like i am for added flow.

to keep the shavings out, put some thick grease on the drill and tap in the grooves. the shavings will stick to the grease and keep most of the shavings from entering the ball joint.

Stay away from Fram filters. Seen them clog and then no oil pressure to motor. Use the good filters.

Do the boost, wideband, and oil psi. IMO wideband is a better investment than a egt. egt is the less knowledgable cousin of the wideband.

it looks a little beat up. as long as its clean and no cuts the filter sjpu;d work. buy a filter reclean kit to clean it up. You could always buy a new filter and have to worry bout the hassle.