Just got my papers and it looks like its a star station for me. Does someone have a good shop they could P.M. me info for?

Ahh I see did you charge the battery before putting it in the car because a small deep cycle like the odyssey will definitely need it. Although 280 cca may seem like a small figure compared to a lot of other batteries with a larger rating but electronically speaking if the battery meets that...

Based on what your saying I am going to assume that you have a no crank situation in the morning. If not explain little more are you able to crank but the motor won't turn over?1: Do you have dash lights?2: Do you hear anything when turning the key to the start position?3: Check the...

It's really hard to say. When you say I tried to hold compression where you using a gauge? Also when spinning the motor over how are you doing so by hand? If you where using a gauge thats good but I don't think spinning it over by hand will net the results the gauge would need to register...

You know your a dsm'er when...you're boost leak checker has a leak

They look cool. After reading up they have very limited applications for now. I wonder how they would work on an AWD car?

Basically a Google image search on "Apexi pen style turbo timer" But I have had experience with these before thats why I asked you post pics. From what I have seen it would be best if you searched by model number but I assumed you did that and turned up nothing. From what I posted it looks...

Ya it does say its a direct replacement but that doesn't mean no work is necessary. Basically what I am getting at is the stock manifold can support a decent amount of horsepower. The only reason I upgraded mine was the fact that the stock one was cracked badly. So unless the way it looks is...

No I am not saying that really. It would be hard to say but if you need that style turbo flange or there is a reason to upgrade it. It really doesn't look like a bad piece. I am more so saying that I have bought ebay exhaust manifolds that were better made than name brand ones so its hit or miss.

People are probably going to bash me for saying this but In most situations unless spending 500 dollars or more an exhaust manifold is an exhaust manifold. Set aside equal/unequal length its only going to be as good as the person who made it.

One place I have used for a while is...RockAuto Auto PartsThey have good prices and lots of options to choose from.

TPS could also cause this problem it should be checked just because it is easy to do.

Nice my first AWD burnout involved a tow truck but its ok I still love my dsm!

If you could post some pics I can tell you for sure . From what I found online...Grey = parking break White = 0/2 sensor wire Black = Ground Green = Primary ignition Red = Constant 12 Volt source Blue = Secondary ignition or accessory

Ya it would still be cheaper you could get a decent GSX for 2500 in Cali and it would probably be cheaper to ship. Still though you need somebody to make the transaction for you here. I seen like 1000 dollars to Hawaii. Then of course taxes but I dont know ho much they are.

I don't know I'd rather take a 240 with skyline bumpers, fender flairs and taillights. nobody will even be able to tell the difference. Right hand drive is the only thing you would really have to live without but hey if you got enough money and time even that is possible.

Whats up bro I work in San Ho! :hellyeah:

Have you looked into how much it would cost to get a car to Hawaii?

I love my dsm I want to buy like ten more!

The Ref is like DMV your either going to get someone who wants to help you or your gonna get someone who hates you. I have had two cars needing Ref visits and got both types of people.

:ohdamn: D@mnit thought I was in the todays post section. Too many tabs open. Sry.

I mean is the car a good deal or could you wait to find something similar without rust for close to the same price. If the only rust is on the rockers it probably wont be to bad just check it really well under floor pans and near hatch. I wouldn't want to replace anything near the hatch.

What all did you connect to the starter. You should have a four gauge and a trigger wire. Do you?

Personally I would take it back and complain until they gave me a refund. But I probably wouldnt let them touch her again. Then check the phase of the balance shaft, timing marks and harmonic balancer. Then use the 700 to hire 5 guys to stand out front of the shop with big signs saying dont go...

Well if that wire doesn't have a ground on it and the and the white/red doesn't have a ground then that relay is the issue. Did you check it with the battery plugged or unplugged? Also I looked for info on that relay but cant find a pinout so I would say swap it with a known good one.

When you say......you mean with ground? If so thats a problem this wire should only receive ground when the ecu wants it to. Same with the white and red. If thats the case you could unplug the ecu and measure the wire again. If still ground then the wire itself is shorting to ground on...

Should know that the base colors are red,blue and yellow and then look at his forum pic and realize I assumed both cars were his.

Knows he needs a blue car to complete the base color collection.

So I looked up the directechs on both cars which is basically a list of certain wire colors on the car used for remote start installation and so on. The harness for the gauges is not on there but if the wire colors between years differ most likely almost all of the wire colors will differ. All...

Well you could run it in line with the oil feed versus t-ing it off. At least you could rule out the t being the issue.

In my opinion if your going for 350-400 horsepower the 4g63 is the way to go. It will be cheaper, lighter, ultimately faster and of course get way better gas millage. You shouldn't have to buy a stand alone for this as the factory ecu is not integrated in the same manner a 2011 car is although...

Possibly an exhaust leak before the muffler would be my guess.

I had similiar idle issues after working on my car one time. I found it to be that I accidentally knocked of the cheap female plug on the throttle plate closed switch on the back of the throttle body. :ohdamn:

First thing I would do is a leak down test. The tach being inconsistent is new to me. It looks like thats the plug for the three vacuum solenoids that are above the brake master cylinder.

If its to close to the exhaust manifold it could cause more harm than good like running your oil through a heater. I got rid of mine on my 1G and did the forward facing oil filter to get more room for the downpipe.

You know your a dsm'er whenYour wife wont go in the garage anymore let alone in the car.You look up the health risks of the refrigerant in your a/cYou keep some JB weld handyYour couch was free on craigslist but your turbo was 2000 bucks.

It sounds like you been going through it with this 2g. Do you have any fuel pressure readings and not to insult you but have you checked the plugs for spark. Sorry I haven't seen the other threads. Maybe you could list them for reference I might be able to help you better.

1996 Talon Printout12 Volts:White Starter:Black/red Ignition:Black/white Accessory:Blue/black All at ignition switchTachometer:White At instrument cluster or PCM. The PCM is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment or behind the center of the dash depending on motor.Source ...

I had the same situation and what I did was use these little rubber caps from auto zone to cap of the thermostat housing.For the water pipe I had it welded up to avoid issues.I haven't seen any adverse side effects so far but I also changed out the radiator at the same time so it would...

Yup your right about that sorry didn't even notice. :aha:

You should also check out the elastic ring in the harmonic balancer to make sure it isn't blown out or worn to badly. ;)

That means its probably a tach signal with a ground reference next to it. You can test the theory by testing it with a meter. If I am correct then the black/white should be a ground and the blue/red should be the tach.Put your meter on the AC setting then put one of your probes in the plug and...

Looks really good so far. Might as well ditch the k member and go all tube...good luck, you have got a lot of work ahead of you.

Post pics of the connector and the relay. You said that two pins have constant and one has an ignition can you make a list for the plug with pin number next to wire color.

It seems like given your situation the best thing to do would be to read this thread (PCV System Discussion) and decide which route you want to take. There are a lot of different options. :D

I would wait for a running awd which you can find for around $1500 sometimes.

I just redid the clutch master cylinder in mine a few weeks ago and without it hooked up the pedal will get stuck on the floor every-time. There is a spring attached to the clutch mechanism that once the arm goes so far will flip around and cause it to get stuck. Only once I blead the new clutch...

Congrats on your new wallet cleaning endeavor. :hellyeah:

To check to see if you have a solid connection to the battery you can take your meter and put one end on the case of the alternator and the other to the output stud on the back of the alternator. If you get a good 14.3 volt reading or so here but not at the battery then you know that somewhere...

When you run your next set of tests you should also look to see if once you hook up the battery you get any dash lights like the check engine and so on. This could indicate that your ignition or accessory circuit is fired up when it shouldn't be which is kind of what it sounds like by you saying...