From my experience back when I tried an open dump on my old small 16g many years ago I didn't like it. Took away so much back pressure that my blow off valve wasn't as loud for some reason. Since then I stayed recirculated stock ported on both my 16gs and my 71hta. Now on the other hand my new...

I run stock gap 7s for many years and power levels without a single problem. Closing it down is just gonna be a bandaid if it would of fixed the issue. Check those plug wires really good as I've had one tear and arc out on me. It was a Taylor 10.2mm and I bought another set. This allows me to...

Oh it happens but that definitely explains what was going on 😆. Ive never tested one but if you got a multimeter and resistance specs you should be able to without a problem. Ive used one to test my idle speed controller. Another option is try another pack or ask a friend for a good known...

When you bypass or block the fast idle air valve your changing idle speed warmup. Most do get bypassed or blocked as they start to leak. If your overheating you got other underlying issues on the car. Overheating is usually something like bad thermostat/fans or too low on coolant.A bunch of...

I was able to cut mine with a haxsaw blade perfectly. Actually so good that it left the weld on the piping to act as a bead lock. Just make sure you sand it some if it comes out sharp. I have the punishment piping kit with a rebuilt s90 74mm with high boost seal and it works great!

With what you got going on id inspect each plug wire especially for any tears or rips. Then id check the plugs see if they look healthy. Ive never really had to change gap or even check it even though that can't hurt. My plugs are always in great shape (good color no debris carbon build up...

You will be happy with the ones posted above just make sure to get the correct threads and fittings. They also sell them non banjo style too like I run on Ebay. Ive had mine for many years and turbos with no leaks. In case you want to keep the lines a bit more away from the center housing...

See ive read the complete opposite of what your saying and always been under the intention peak and hold were faster. I can understand your advantage point over peak and hold from a certain standpoint. The piezo electric part is interesting I did not know that with saturated. Im sure its a not a...

Correct I was just saying cause its usually referred to as low resistance/impedance and high resistance/impedance. Yes and the ohms are relatively low on peak and hold and high on saturated. I do like how the peak and hold snap open and closed faster but again just a preference.

Not disagreeing here but there is other ways that global deadtime can still come in handy when used with injector latency to further fine tune the car.

Actually I dont low impedance are peak and hold which require a resistor or driver so they don't overheat. As where high resistance are saturated and do not. Low resistance are faster but run a tad hotter then high resistance. Ya I've heard the same but I had tuning issues and cold start...

Let me know if you get those running correctly as im curious. Some people say you need a fuel injector clinic driver box to run low resistance injectors that big if you can find one. I run the 1450cc blue max low z and I like them a bunch more then when I had 1100cc fuel injector clinic high...

Coming from someone who's had ecmlink v3 full for a very long time, I would definitely suspect the cord. If all other wiring is good as well that is. I use a fairly old laptop and when my old cable got bad, it got to the point it wouldn't connect anymore. My old cable sat in the heat and cold...

Very wise choice on ecmlink v3 instead of aem series 2. I had a series 2 I put in my car without even driving on it. Long story short after my omni map sensor wouldn't cooperate I sold it for about 600 less almost 2 years later.

If your on a really tight budget that might be the route to go. But if it were me after many set ups alot that I've regretted in the past id do it all at once if you can afford it. Its also not a bad idea to build for more power then planned in case you step up turbos at some point or do other...

No problem ya that definitely would be a good idea to have it compression tested and see where everything is at. Thats good and ya that definitely sounds like the turbo needs a rebuild and maybe some new pistons/rings depending on compression. When I had previous smoking issues from leaks it...

Its been a bit since I've seen one but that definitely looks just like the t-25 factory turbo.

Ya your gonna want to find a good Eprom with ecmlink v3 full installed ideally. Otherwise you can send to have socketed but not sure on the wait and how many chips are available. Ya those apexi units are cheap outdated and no good they are a non efficient band aid to trick the car. From my...

As for Valvoline coolant the red and blue zerex is compatible with Mitsubishi. Check and fix any leaks like bad or dry rotted lines loose clamps etc. Sounds to me like you have a faulty thermostat if the problem still persists.

If you decide you want a more plug and play set up, Magnus sells a 6 bolt swap conversion harness for a good price. It uses both signals from the 1g cas without any splicing that route. I run that harness set up to run with a Kiggly v2 crank trigger sensor and the signal still inverted through...

I had a small amount coming from my dash sender and or oil cooler bypass valve. I ended up using some thread sealer on both and it doesn't leak anymore.

I'm personally a fan of the 3 piece low rise especially for visibility and the factory third brake light. The carbon ones special carbon fiber sells looks even more amazing!

This thread looks like it has some useful information to help ya out on changing the rear main seal. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/crankshaft-seal-question.460470/ Also make sure everything is clean on the surface when pressing the new seal in.

There are some nice coilovers but they get pricey quick depending on the brand. I can say that the tokico blue struts and springs treat me really good! Reasonably priced and hold up alot better then the factory suspension. Im very particular at avoiding pot holes or bumps and never had an issue...

Ya that doesn't help then, I thought you might of still been 2 bolt for the downpipe connection. That's interesting I never really thought of that but I know what your saying.

Yep my buddy at boosted fabrication has you covered!

So the flange your looking for im actually using on my Dsm now. It is very low profile and not the easiest to weld. Fp doesn't make the 02 housings anymore. Id say your best bet is to try a Morrison fab 02 housing as they now make them for this specific set up! If I had that option when doing...

Heatshield products makes a lava shield with adhesive I plan to consider trying. It is a bit on the expensive side depending on size and it looks like dark gold carbon. Says its good for 1200° radiant and 2000° intermediate.

I run the s2 274s with the bc springs and titanium retainers on my big turbo fully built dsm. They work absolutely amazing and I can rev out to over 8k easy and flawlessly! That is with help of an amazing tune of course.

When I ran my Mhi small and evo3 16g I used a restrictor at the turbo as well as it being restricted on the center section. Not sure on the exact size but its very small for a journal and was indectical to the inlet size. When I pulled them to upgrade they were in great condition with no shaft...

Forced Performance and Jnz tuning has them as not all places include all 8 conical lock washers. Machv motorsports is the longer bolts only and street tuned motorsports have the 02 housing to downpipe studs/nuts. Extreme psi boostin and map performance have alot of dsm parts as well.

I run the stock on mine with an mls gasket on my hotside and they work great! Torque them to about 45-50lbs and make sure the conical lock washers are stacked in the correct orientation. I also used some high temp nichol antiseieze on the threads. Fp and Jnz have them with all 8 conical lock...

Yep exactly only the speedometer part stopped everything else was fine. I did keep the new vss as well since my old one was rough and partly cracked.

It sounds like you got an issue with the idle speed controller itself or the adjustment of it. Those things are known to be fineky. Have you had a retune since the cams and or checked for any boost leaks? Did you double check the fan wiring? Sounds like something I've dealt with before in the past.

My power locks and alarm used to go off wanted whenever they wanted, my solution was I just permanently disconnected mine lol. Seems to be a pretty common issue with Dsms.

I use the 2gb headlights with the 2ga eclipse smiley face bumper. I love the unique look and it gives the rad a little extra air!

Just curious if you ended up locating the correct banjo bolt for your filter restrictor? I lucked out having one laying around that was perfect fit. I did sorce the inverted flare fitting at the turbo from FP.

I said realistically cause alot of people say a # then want more shortly after or later. I think it more depends on how you drive the car. I'm only on my second stock transmission and it went just getting ready to pull out from old age/high mileage. If your not 2 stepping and launching or...

Wow thats very crazy and unfortunate! I thought the screws come crimped on the ends unless they didn't start doing that until a certain year. I've cut mine taken it all apart to have a high boost metal incase shaft seal installed. Had locktite put on all 3 screws afterwards but im going to...

You can't go wrong with any Fp turbo in my opinion! Whats your power goals realistically? I had multiple 16g set ups, the 71hta and now I'm on a big guy the 78-64 fp Xona 86htz. I loved them all especially the 71 cause it spooled like a 16g but even my new set up is very responsive and tolerable...

It more so depends on how you want it set up. Some people prefer oem style (with vac) baffled or even dual oem style baffled with an optional check valve. Out of my experiences I much prefer vented like in the picture above with straight fittings/no pcv valve. It also seems like most high hp set...

Just the speedometer part failed in my original one.

I went through this recently with my 2g. Ended up being in the dash cluster itself. I did end up buying a new genuine Mitsubishi vehicle speed sensor before purchasing another dash cluster.

Rest in peace to a man that was very competitive and considered a legend in the 4g63 community. I remember meeting Curt at Keystone many years back when he was still into DSMs and Evos. I remember him running 10s on what I believe to be an Fp green powered evo. Much prayers for the family. He...

Not at all they rate the Dsm greens up to about 550whp! Although it can make more I I wouldn't reccomend it. My previous turbo which was a 71hta was making over 500whp but didn't like that too much lol.

Got ya, sounds like possibly some stripping going on hopefully not in the head or just too short like you said. Mine doesn't thread in much just a couple threads but I didn't go that tight with it. I did tighten the restrictor filter down alot though.

I had a similar issue but mine was leaking from the filter restrictor not in the correct orientation or tightened down enough before hand. Luckily I had the correct fittings to locate it to the head for my new turbo! The bolt/banjo is fairly short on mine as well but it snugged up enough to not...

Make sure to just take things easy and keep and eye on everything. Also just thought I'd chime in and share that Kevin Jewer does great tuning! He specializes in ecmlink remote tunes/Dsms and is currently tuning my fully built 2g! Thought I'd share as I was never a huge fan of dyno tuning in all...

Very well said information from above by Justin! I thought I'd mention I had both wheels contact the housings in my old turbo (71hta). It was being overran at the time but was also shut off once it was pushing oil. Needless to say it needed new wheels/shaft/internals with a full refresh. I had...