Okay so an update, after weighing my options and browsing other people’s setups I’ve decided to scrap the tubular manifold idea and just go with a cast T3 manifold.I’m also thinking of not going with a Holset due to their physical size, weight, turbine housing options and due to how picky they...

I’ve been talking with the shop that’s fabricating my manifold and they said they can make a log style manifold if I don’t want to lose spool from the longer runners.Should I go this route instead? It’s actually more cost effective for them to make it and I know it’ll fit an Hx35 because I’ve...

I don’t mind, I’ve been taking notes actually. This information is invaluable and can’t be found anywhere else on the net.If anyone is curious my manifold won’t have super long runners. I realize it’s not ideal but I might have even bigger goals in the future. The boost bug is real.

Really good info! Seems like the HY is the choice, I’m just having a hard time finding new units that aren’t knockoffs for sale. Same with the turbine housing for them, I’ll keep searching though. Thanks.Just one more thing for anyone still reading. Just throwing this out there but would it be...

Really? I’ve seen a few members on this sub say the HX spools like a 16G. I’ll be running a custom tubular manifold in a top mount configuration and I can select any flange for it.

What about HX35? The HY is difficult to find for sale and I don’t really want to buy it used and wait for it to be rebuilt.From what I’ve seen the HX35 spools very quick as well and I can find that brand new for $700, even the HX40 is readily available and I wouldn’t have to buy a separate...

Yeah I’d like to stay under $1,000 and it’s looking like that turbo is about 2x that once I selected the turbine housing I’ll need.

I’m looking for a 450whp capable turbo on pump gas with some headroom to exceed 500whp+ if I choose to do so later down the line.I’m looking for something with a T3 turbine housing with a v-band exhaust outlet. I’d also prefer a billet wheel if possible.This is going to go on a street car...

I got the blend door to open and close a lot more freely now. I put the key in and cranked up the fan and a bunch of debris shot out the vents. However, I fixed the cable and got it back together and now it works fine setting the temperature. I figure that someone broke the cable a long time ago...

I don't know how to get to the flapper way behind the dash without actually pulling the dash which I don't want to do. My local junkyard also doesn't have anymore DSMs which kind of stinks. The cars basically vanished from existence here. I resorted to pulling apart the lower dash and took out...

Okay that's good then that nothing is missing. I'm asking because cables are good at pulling, not at pushing. I don't see how it'll be able to push the arm shut after I turn the knob. I can open and close it by hand but it does take some force. It almost feels stuck and then wham it suddenly...

I'm in the process of repairing a snapped HVAC temperature control cable and while I was looking behind the dash it looked like the blend door lever had something missing on it. Is it supposed to have a return spring to shut the door? I figure the cable just pulls it open and a spring closes it...

That's not a china-charger is it? The parts look good though, if you want free big maps software for your ECU you know who to hit up ;)

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/6152994885.htmlCheck out that machine gun exhaust tip. Bet ALL OF YOU ARE JEALOUSsame car, but part II, it gets better: https://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/6088509759.html

It shows $25 for manual and $27 for auto.

Glad you're happy with their product. I wanted to purchase one a while back but a couple peopled warned me that on their page there were a ton of people who were saying how they got ripped off and never got their money back. Since there's so many scammers these days and you don't know who's...

I'm pretty sure the PR kit is just a generic eBay kit that they rebranded as their own.

Technically the poor little T25 runs so hot at only 15 psi it would probably benefit from a fmic :pWhy don't you go with a VRSF kit? That's what I went with and it worked great with my E316G. On the hottest day in summer I could romp on the car and when I go to park it I would touch the...

You listed on your profile that you have a 14B but in the photos on page two it looks like you have the stock Garrett turbo. Meaning you will need a couple hardware items in order for the Mitsu turbo to bolt up. Also don't just get any 16G, look for an EVO 3 version and port the turbine housing...

Yes that large harness, follow where it goes to the right (towards you) and it's right there beneath the radio.

That wire harness on the right is connected to your ECU. Looks like a black box to me.

EVO injectors could serve you well if that's your goal but realistically at least 850s because you might decide to go for more power in the future. Also before you install that walbro you'll need an AFPR first.

Your next mods should be: ECU, fuel system, turbo. In that order. Don't bother with manifolds or cams your T25 doesn't flow anywhere near enough to be choked off by your stock hardware. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to change out old vac lines and get a boost leak tester, you'll also need a...

Fuelab makes really good stuff I've never had a complaint with any of their regulators. Extreme psi and MAP sell fuel hose kits to adapt the AFPR to the stock DSM fuel lines, the MAP kit is a little cheaper than E-PSI iirc.

JDT updated Reliable DailyView updates to this DSM profile...

Has anyone checked their local classifieds for these cars lately? They seem to have gone up in value in my area. I'm seeing FWDs with bad paint being posted for 4500 and shells being posted for 5k. Haven't seen a turbo model for less than 3500 no matter how beat.

At this point I'm debating if that's a good thing or a bad thing.On one hand these cars are going away and you rarely run into another on the street. On the other hand these cars are going away and it raises the value of the nice ones that are still around.Even so 6k is insane for that. I...

I read the VRSF is 800hp capable. People have gone pretty fast down the 1/4 with them, that's what really matters though.

The last time a clean GSX was for sale near me the guy got over 150+ replies and it sold in less than a day. People offered more than the asking price.There is a clean 420a 2Ga Talon near me listed for $4000 tho.....

I'd like a carbon fiber crankshaft, 12 piston bolt-on brake calipers, front mount valve cover kit, and a short throw dipstick.

Mine has been reliable. Then again all the maintenance was done correctly and on time. I've only had small issues, like the cup holder cover breaking, hot/cold hvac cable broke, plastic piece on the dipstick broke off, the rear plastic pin that pulls up the cargo cover fell out etc.

I've had offers of 4500 and 5K during the short time I've had mine on CL. I'm going to wait until spring to return it back to mostly stock before I sell it though. There was literally NO clean example in my entire state for sale at the same time as mine.

My butt dyno isn't accurate either. When I first put my Evo III on it felt slower than the T25. My speed climbs faster at 11psi on the 16G than on the T25 at 15psi, but doesn't feel as punchy and spools up much later. Having power past 5k is nice though.

I wish I could get a Cobra :D

I have indeed made my mind up lol sorry guys. Yes the GT is kinda slow but I have lots of hills in my town and my car never spools fast enough. I get that I can make more power but it's a bunch of other factors, like I'm really starting to feel the age of the car.

This would be the layout of my house

I have mine mounted onto the transmission, which is a bit further down. Plenty of people mount theirs where the stock SMIC was. As long as it's air tight it shouldn't matter where you put it.

Eating my words right now.

Damn 6K I actually want to sell my 2G but I doubt I could grab that much for it. I noticed that they were cheaper a couple years ago too.

Carpet dye is cheap

10:1 compression seems kinda high for a boosted 4G motor. I bet off boost the pick up is pretty good though. I would personally go for something bigger than a T28 and throw some bigger injectors on there. Why do you want to switch to ethanol though?

The quality is not the same. I have the PR style housing and had sealing issues with it.

Every used E3 housing I've seen has had this problem. Some people just weld a nut on there. I just threw mine out and bought a knockoff housing and ported it.

Where do these people keep coming from? Lol, turbo flutter doesn't even sound that cool. I rather hear a big BorgWarner spool up than hear that.

I bet they're on sale because they will be discontinued soon

That' my problem exactly^^^

Problem with the MPG argument is my car goes through gas so quickly, it made me wonder why I have a 4 banger in the first place. After visiting Europe and seeing how a 2.0l is a "big" engine there, I realized how much cheaper and less expensive it is to own a big V8 in a America than anywhere...

I can't find an LS powered car in my price range that isn't ugly.

Thanks for the input. I do have a fresh set of EVO 9 injectors with brand new seals on them that I was planning to throw in. I've lost interest in it though, even if it made 350whp it wouldn't matter.All my other cars are V8s and I've gotten used to the feel so when I go back to the Talon...

I'm running out of reasons to keep my Talon, I want something a little newer with a little more torque so I've been looking at maybe an 03-04 Mustang GT. Yes, the ones with the slow modular.Thoughts? Mods are in my profile, I've considered bring it back to stock when I sell.