Thanks for the prompt reply! So all i need to know now is where A10 plugs in..?::: i may have figured it out. but the receiving end was not near the starter. It was along the same looming path, but i was expecting a few inches from it, not closer to the positive terminal. The wire...

the car is a 90 GSX. I have used this post as the reference.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/412841-1990-engine-control-wiring-harness.htmli have also read the configuration diagrams for the 2.0 turbo and they were not a tremendous help for the 6 following...

arrrrr!!!! Thanks good people

i think the issue is the bolts im using, ive got 25 mm in there, i bought new 8.8's for the rebuild. i was thinking they were a tad long, anyone know what they should be? 16mm? 20mm?

A little old, but should the pressure plate sit flush ALL the way down to the flywheel? Or is it ok for the PP to be about 3/16 away from touching the flywheel? Not to mention I'm getting about 22ft/lbs on it. It's a 90 turbo awd.

So the next question is, can i use a 1.5 thick top and second ring instead of the 1.2 top and 1.5 second rings that came with my original set? I am assuming the heat would cause the top ring to expand more, and being 0.3 wider already would create a bad situation.

So i take it by bogusSVO, that slight bevel in the bottom of the second ring is mandatory for a dsm? I ask ### I am damn close to buying a Chrysler 2.7L set. The tech on the phone told me he couldn't identify a bevel thru the plastic for number 2 ring...?

perhaps everyone is just out of stock on .040's. ive been blowing up peoples phones everywhere looking for these as well. i got some "stock" .040 pistons and broke ONE of the 2nd rings while tapping them into the block. i may have an alternative. but perhaps a smarter man can answer... the rings...

What kind of hp are you making with said ring gap? Or is it broad ranges you build?

So machv, ext psi, summit, parts Dino don't have .040" (+1mm) over rings that I can grind. Bore is 3.375 right now, with calipers sitting toward the top half inch or so. Any other recommendations? I am hoping to order by tonight or tmrw, have this b*tch ready by the weekend.

I ordered new piston heads through the shop, But the pistons were not labeled, so I am assuming they didn't bore to each piston. I think they were the nprs but I don't recall (at work). I don't have turbo plans yet, I just want to get it on the street for at least a few months. 400 was a goal I...

Thanks for a reply but I know I need to file to fit, but clearly if it's too big, I ain't filing anything man. And yes I just feeler'ed all the rings. And it's .029 across the board.

Block is bored .040 over. Ring gap 1st ring(top) is .0215, second ring is .029?! Is this ok? Came outta the enginetech box like this. I plan to autocros, after enjoying it running daily driver style, for a few months. I am mic'ing the bore at 3.375 +- .002 at the top. Any help please?

i bought these back in november. Post #11, dude.

The 88$ link makes it seem like its the tensioner "pulley" for the exhaust BS. Any update if you bought it turbolaser? or anyone?

unfortunately i am in tulsa, and broke my foot a few weeks ago. No traveling for me...

It looks like the cup was installed convex out. I think it will fair fine, but I don't know how to be sure it's in there square..

Hate to say it but thanks for the early warning to spin my cooler up and around. You get it back on the road yet?

partsdinosaur.com has all the gaskets and belts, PLUS the water pump. I have my cart tally'd (tallied)(sp?) at $212 USD for every bit of sealing including the turbo and its oil lines. My block is away getting bored from one hole-y piston, the kid before did to it. Best of luck on the new build

tulsadsm on facebook is not frequented. I am a member of it, but nobody seems to respond or care. Its depressing. Dsm forums is about as good as it gets. haha

Glad to hear it fastgt, but you might ought to change your tag to fastgsx... just dropped my block and head off today for its new build. i havent had mine running since i bought it in 08. I am a lazy M 'effer. Sounds like a meet and greet is in order before too long. Especially if the weather is...

I bought these a couple weeks back...

Congratulations!!! I am pretty jealous. The flat black gives it a crazy appearance, nice touch tho. Now its time for some autocross!

Number 1 looks like the winner. But welds and longevity matter more than top mounting. No high miles on one of these?

its a good thing you caught this before anything bad happened :/

More fuel to the fire... I hate to say this but I attribute fun all motor cars to the rwd'ers. Sure we can pull the ebrake, but I don't think a beefy torquey motor up front plus fwd is going to make for a lot of fun, just a lot of understeer. A 2.3 might still be fun ### its all power at the...

Best of luck to you, guy before me didn't tell me bolts were broken and mid-crank bearings were melted. Where the hell do these guys get together and ruin our pre-cars?!?

I had a pair of specials in my 2g NA, and the ride was god awful. It also broke my perches clean off the weld after 10-20k.. The specials ha some junk threaded sleeve and some Allen set screws. Tightening the set screws warped the threa all directions. Took an hour to get one in the area of...

This might be okay if it was higher compression pistons from a junked car to be reinstalled from the TOP into another car, but then again i don't have a spare Evo motor to check for under-removal.

Hot tanking is always the more the merrier!! I've been quoted 350-550 locally for rotating assembly. Just some prices to think about never know what might be marred up in there..

I think most people are missing the part where he said he cut it already.

Also a quick tip, use wd40 as a sort of non stick spray for the bare metal. You will get less slag sticking and therefore need to grind less. Those tiny bits can sometimes get STUCK bad.

The timing belt change is going to be a jump right in kind of thing. there is no amount of wrenching done on the dsm that will prepare you for the theoretical heart surgery that it is. im not trying to intimidate you. however the tools and man hours, possibly car down time would make or break...

I didnt see any thing ref'd to pulling the condenser out, so i will remark on that. The unit itself is close to the same size as your radiator, and sitting right in front of it and soaking all the air flow. If your a/c lines are already out, or if you plan on not doing a/c at all, just unbolt it...

i am dying to know what these "re and re and ..." things are. Re dip the block? ok, but re and re and weld the center diff? i would think i should take to someone who could just weld it right, the first time. No re-welding required. I hate to bash guys i dont know, but this invoice needs a...

fastest way to tell is slap it in your car. Every car has its own quirks, and yours should be no exception. Just dont use an impact hammer putting those exhaust mani to turbo bolts on, and check behind it after a few turns of the wrench.

Didn't check ok-speed, thanks for that. And I'm in Tulsa. That would be a bit of a drive. I may have one lined tho, if I can find a damn truck..

I wouldnt say "waste." but what your after is an awd turbo. those are easier purchased then made. if you had a lot and i mean a freaking lot of body and interior custom work on the 2g, then it would be fine to swap the holy grail of motors into your chrysler. Otherwise part that thing out, and...

Hey guys, not too much traffic in our forums but i figure it wouldn't hurt. I am in need of a 6 bolt, i would like a turbo bare block, but if a non turbo bloc came for the right price... I am willing to drive just about anywhere. I would like to keep it here close, or perhaps the dallas area in...

sorry man, i never check our forums. i got a harbor freight hoist. just pulled my block sunday so i know it works!! i do NOT have a load leveler tho. im in tulsa. are you moving TO tulsa or OUT of tulsa?::::pm'ed::::

sorry bout the starter plate, bought one already. do you still have the the block? mine is toast

i gotta be honest, i am staring at my block and dont understand the "bearing on the right." are you referring to the bearing that rests between the middle two pistons on the intake side of the block? that is where the shafts sits while the other end is the geared/oil pump end. I put some...

my apologies if youre colorblind!!i think the block is toast already, heres why. the yellow circle is missing something important. The red circles are stripped completely and the green circle that mates to the transmission, inside the transmission is the broken bolt.I have a set of calipers...

The photo is the middle main bearing, not sure if that is also referred to as the thrust bearing? Well looks like i need a replacement either way. This is the only bearing that looks like this too. So what does this imply?Does the crank need machining and/or polish (i have read to NOT...

haha, perfect. Thanks for clearing me up for me. lol :thumb:

easy answer: use some coins to help base a starting radius, ie penny or dime and just measure those diameter/2. The chamfer is as simple as a square ruler and a second ruler, measure up the sides for the dimensions. Both of which a decent guy in torch welding classes should have access to, haha...

So we have established that while running a turbo setup (ie swap pistons and rods and crank and oil pan) the blocks only differ in the oil-squirters?

With the usual wiseco/eagle/arp combo, and a decent turbo, 500 is easily possible. But settle on a good set of pistons and rods, and take those up to a good machine shop with your block so they can machine to the actuals.

Not too out of date here, but on the maperformance site they have a few listings under ARP bolts and studs. They have a cylinder head stud kit for 92$ and a main stud for 63$. I have finally settled on the tried and true wiseco/eagle/arp setup, and im well aware of the difference in head studs...

im interested to know this as well. ive found a long block for 50$ locally. Seems almost a no brainer to pick it up for spare parts, even if it is a NT. Nobody have a response to this?