Dealerships used to be required to supply belt extensions for free. I think they still are, although finding the part to fit this old a car may be trouble. It's just a pair of connectors (M & F) on a short piece of belt.Next, eat less. For the rest of your life. Here, this off-topic will...
It's easier to just use the throttle pedal. It's the skinny one on the right. When you want less boost, don't push it down as far.Seriously.Having "adjustable" boost, or "two stages" or whatever other kind of carnival crap on the power output of an engine is not merely pointless, but it's...
Stop obsessing. Any new belt will be fine. "Stretching" is not an issue, and failure of new belts -as opposed to being installed out-of-time- is unheard of. There are no "cheap" belts being made. It's too complex an operation to bother trying to make clones of.
Or there's a crack in the overflow line and it's sucking back air instead of coolant- make sure the snorkel tube in the inside of the expansion ("overflow") tank reaches to the bottom. Also look for cracks in the overflow tank.
The bolt is a bleeder. It's unnecessary on a DSM. You won't find a sender that'll fit that small a hole.The circled cap is where the idiot disconnected his BOV recirculation tube because the zoomy-zoomy whoosh sounded so cool. Put "Venting" in the Search box and read all 500 threads about why...
I don't know. I never understand why people pass me only so they can turd along in the fast lane a mile later refusing to yield, as though they've paid higher road taxes or something.If you aren't passing, GTFO of the left lane. If you aren't going to keep a better pace, don't pass in the...
First suspect is the toe adjustment. The cause may be from damage or wear. Do not go to Good Year, find a decent, independent alignment shop that's been in your town since the thirties.
Cut your losses (and, ours). Take it to an independent shop that deals with AC service. It may be as simple as needing a charge (good luck finding that Freon), a belt, an adjustment, or a leak, or it may be as complex as a failed compressor, clutch, or even the AC control unit (which has not...
Get a $30 infrared thermometer and check your radiator's heat pattern.You can skip turning on the heater. DSMs are full-flow, full-time, and all you're doing is moving an air control flap. They don't run a water valve to the heater core.
Why did it break? If rust was involved, a patch will only find the next weak spot. It may fail in a place where the backstop's not so soft as a deer.... or, a few hundred feet down a canyon.
Sure, it's just the brakes. Why worry about using the manufacturer's part when you can save five or ten bucks?The STUPID level around here is truly bewildering.
You don't have one.
You can fit any DIN radio made. DSMs have full-spec room, with more behind the deck than most cars.
Crutchfield is good, but they aren't perfect.
Again, any you can buy will fit...
Pointless. Well, even more pointless than an EGT gauge, which on a street car is just another "Too Late" gauge.
Your turbo runs on heat, not pressure. It converts that heat to kinetic energy and depletes it as it spins up.Damaging exhaust temperatures occur so quickly in a mis-tuned engine...
Timing belt brand is not an issue- you can't find one that isn't good. You can spend more on Kevlar, but it's seldom worth the cost.What is an issue in that picture is the oil on the belt. They MUST be dry.
^- I don't know why the DSM world puts up with that goofy-assed piece of crap "flex" line that Mits sells. My '84 Datsun uses silicone line flawlessly. The silicone spec is also for the heat. You may also try truck supplies, bearing shops, and hydraulic shops- someone will have one that's even...
Engine parts don't fail because of oil. They fail because of a lack of oil, which isn't the oil's fault. Send us a sample of oil from the failed engine, we'll run it through the lab and let you know.Gimmick.
Don't start a new topic in your original thread.Use Prestone. Get a gallon of 50/50 pre-mix, pour that in, and fill the rest with a gallon of distilled (not "drinking") water from the grocery store.Back to your AC situation.
If it's already made 90K, I'm with those who say to let it run. There's no telling how soon or if it will fail, but turbo motors are pretty used-up by 130~150, generally. Start saving for the next motor. Or, car.
Control unit. No longer being made.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/269945-c-control-unit-ecu-ac-ac-ac-ac-ac-ac-brain-controller-ecu.html?highlight=ac
And you're washing the oil off the rings and cylinder walls, leading to scuffing and scoring. If it's enough too-much, you can also dilute your oil and destroy the engine's bearing. Everywhere.Engines don't put up with "just a little off", and the less so for turbocharged ones. Do it right...
Turn it upside down, rotate the cams so the valves are closed in a given combustion chamber, and pour it full of kerosene. After thirty minutes, make sure none has leaked.Or better, disassemble the head and examine the valves and seats. Hand-lap them at least.