No known damage/repairs, no pouring. If it was milled, it was only once and just enough for a clean marring surface for a new head gasket with head studs. It’s still currently on the motor.
I have a stock 1G head in good condition I’d be willing to sell. Still on the motor I am dropping in my car soon. I have a Buschur built head to put on my motor.
I’ve never seen a “nicer” bumper on the Eclipse. The Laser looked the best best IMO, followed by the Talon. 😂 But there may have been different versions on them that I’ve never seen in 20 years around these things.
Lol, not getting in a needless debate. I guess if if I don't follow a written guideline it's wrong...then go read the ECMlink wiki and how they had their wideband in the o2 housing for tons of miles on a road race car with no failures. I guess I better be more careful and follow the manual more...
^^^very interesting. Never heard that in the 15 years I've been messing with cars. I've heard the farther down the exhaust stream the more skewed the numbers can be. The farthest I have ever placed wideband O2 sensor from the turbo was about 14" on my Evo. It was stilling going just fine after...
It does not need to be 36" from the turbo. FYI. I would get it close to the turbo, but if you are on a stock o2 housing, try to get it in your downpipe (if it's aftermarket). If not, I would wait until you go aftermarket on the o2 housing or the downpipe and have it added.
Yes...if you do not have link, then you need to put your front O2 sensor back in and wire it back in properly. You can have an additional O2 sensor bung welded into your exhaust for the wideband. As I mentioned, if you don't have link or an aftermarket ECU source, you cannot tell the ECU to...
Ok. Did you not wire in the wideband for it to get the feedback of the front O2 sensor after you installed the wideband? If not, then you are only getting one signal from the aft O2 sensor. In this case, I would just wire in the wideband for narrow band simulation and you should be good to go...
This doesn't make sense to me...unless I am missing something. Why are you taking the wideband out and putting the OEM sensor back in front to do narrow band simulation? IIRC, the narrow band simulation is when you wire the wideband in to the appropriate pin, but indicate the appropriate switch...
My tear down on my car starts in a couple weeks. Stock 90 FWD laser...14b drag car!! This won't be my first time doing this. The last one I had with the power mentioned above was on a 325k mile stock motor, about 300lb of weight reduction and slicks. It went back to back to back 12.0x with...
The car was tuned with link for my setup. With the non turbo pressure regulator, it makes those 450s run like 550s...or maybe even 600s, but you have to have the pump and rewire to keep up, obviously.And I agree with Justin about the airflow and power capability of the 14b. I know people who...
The one thing I would do is upgrade the wiring to the fuel pump with the rewire. And no, you won't make it to 300whp unless it's a very generous dyno. I would estimate anywhere from 220-240whp. The 560s and the n/t regulator will be good, but not sure if the stock fuel pump can keep up. So you...
How did you adapt to the 1g head? Just port to match or did you swap over the very ends of the runner/head flange from the 1g manifold to the Evo manifold?
My last car didn't hit 11s...however, it hit 12.01, 12.03 and 12.04...fwd with only about 200lb weight reduction, stock intercooler/intake setup, exhaust mods, clutch, link v3. It was tuned with C16 fuel @ 22psi.
Well, I'm going to go ahead and revive this! It's been just over a year since the last post!! I know you still have a little more left in the little 14b, Shane!. A tubular k-member and drag front/rear brakes takes off 100lb, and gives you less parasitic drag!! However, you gotta pay to play for...
No. When you order it (or if you buy used), you can reset everything to factory settings and then just select the Evo MAF on the drop down menu. It will start up and run fine on stock injectors.
Send the 2g head to Curt Brown...he'll do the magic on it! Well worth the money IMO. And if those are your cam choices, Kelfords all day. BC is decent for a low budget, but for something like you are planning for, don't sell yourself short on one of the items that will make or break you. Your...
@bastarddsm...you are just waiting to explode that motor! Those factory pistons in the N/T motors are horrible for boost. Surprised it's currently staying together! That probably won't last too long. I would actually focus more on getting a healthy stock turbo motor setup instead of the other...
I might make a lowball offer on it. The custom one I will have made will be no more than about $525-550 and support a ton of power, but still have good flow characteristics for the little turbos.
Sweet. Thanks Shane. If I see a street one come along for sale pretty cheap, I might go for it. Otherwise I'm probably going with a custom unit that can grow with turbo size.Hope you get out to a track. And a "paid" event with more prep will be much better!!
Anybody still doing anything with the 14b? No posts since Dec '15?!I'm currently deployed and getting some money/parts together for when I get home! So hope to have the car ready to hit the track by the end of spring next year!
I had a custom sidemount made from a Bell core. I passed it along due to some other personal things in life at the time that came up, but I will be having another one made. I believe the core was 6" thick, 9" wide and 11" tall, IIRC. Flow rate was just over 1200cfm and it was made to fit in the...
That t4 single scroll in that A/R will probably have about as much lag as a t3 .82 A/R housing...maybe a hair more. That said, you will want a good aftermarket manifold...I would probably go with a JMFabrications manifold, or look for all the guys who run DSMs and do fab work. You don't have to...