I have an in-car pc and I love it. I use it for link/mp3/satellite radio/etc. I have the logger running all the time. As soon as the pc boots it launches DSMlink. :DOne thing to keep in mind... if you're going to run a car pc get a SSD. I have an old 2.5" HDD right now and when I launch...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/86225-door-handles-help-merged-11-7-broke-broken-ebay-replacement-repair-handle-outside.html

That is about your only option but I think you may have better luck taking the drivers motor mount off and dropping the engine down on that side. The oil pan isn't going to be taking the full weight of the motor. It's done all the time. Use a large block of wood between the pan and your jack...

Mine does the same thing. It's normal for these things.

Just get one of the $300 deals they usually have on black friday. ECMlink is not resource intensive and all you need is a USB port. I like using a cheap laptop for tuning so when I leave it in my car I'm not worried about getting a $1000+ laptop ripped off because some knucklehead decided they...

8 x 1.25 if I'm not mistaken.

Yes, the oil separator ring has the oil hole towards the bottom.

Because you have a 6bolt with a 2g motor mount and 1g tensioner arm. You will not be able to use the tensioner tool.On the tensioner bearing make sure the two little holes are towards the top of the bearing. Before you put tension on the pulley those two holes will be at like 9 and 7 o'clock...

Search strut tower rust, then join the club. :(

Yes.RRE oil supply instructions

I just finished replacing the rear main seal on my 6 bolt. It is a real pain getting the seal in straight. I found that the inner (smaller) water pump (power steering) pulley fits the seal perfectly to pound it in straight. I'm not sure if this has been discussed before but I thought I'd share...

A drill bit will work fine. I used a unibit to start (to help keep the bit from walking) then finished with a regular drill bit. I don't remember the size I used; just go a hair bigger than the pump outlet.

Right, I opened up the inside of the bulkhead to tightly fit around the walbro o-ring. The sides of the bulkhead seem to get a little thin but it's fine.I left the return line as stock (there is really no need to change it). I did open up the siphon/venturi hole a bit to help with...

You don't need the nipple or adapter fitting on the pump bulkhead. On mine I reamed out the inside of the bulkhead fitting so the pump would slide in snugly.

Post #14 HKS Cam CardDon't listen to people that blindly say "Don't go with XYZ grinds." It really depends on what you intend to do with your car. For a daily driven city car or autox car a 264/272 combo and adjustable cam gears could give you great low end torque and quick spool.

A 1g motor will bolt right up to your 2g tranny. As long as the flywheel that was left on your 1g motor is correct for your tranny (fwd/awd) then it'll go right together.

I still think the McDouble (minus onions) tastes better. I just had one of the BK's and all it tasted like was mustard. That is pretty messed up that the McD's manager wrote down the kid's license plate and took it to the cops. He is taking his job a little too seriously...

I could go for a double cheeseburger right now though. If only my car ran... ROFL

That is one of the most ridiculous things I have ever heard. Next thing you know the police are going to be handing out citations for using incorrect grammar in the forums! :tease: Watch out noobs!

Yes, you can just follow the VFAQ. I think when I did mine I just went by RRE's tutorial.One note about the Fidanza cam gears; the timing marks on them typically are not exactly like stock. Stock gears have timing marks were one is on the peak of a tooth and the other is in the valley of two...

You want to come do my car now? Absolutely beautiful! :hellyeah:

That is by far the worst I have ever seen. There is no repairing that. You'll need to replace the strut towers. Find a donor car, cut out the pieces and graph them back into your car. You can still get one of the sides from Mitsu but the other side is discontinued. It's also very expensive.

All I did was permanently ground the factory disarm wire and I was good to go.

Can somebody help me out with the part number for the AC line mounting clip part number? I've browsed through CAPS and can't seem to find it.Thanks.

Correct. The 6's are the stock heat range. With a stock system there is no reason to switch to a colder plug. In fact, you'd probably foul them out much faster.

For the record, your BSE plug is installed the correct way. :thumb:

50/50 mix with e85?

Bummer dude. If the drive or driven gear have chewed into the pump casing you'll need a whole new case and gears... :notgood:

Two on the front one on the rear. The one on the rear can be left alone. There is no oil feed to if from the galley.

No. You only have to turn the two front balance shaft bearings (balance shaft on the exhaust side). The rear balance shaft bearing (the one the oil pump rides on) doesn't need to be turned as the oil is fed through the balance shaft itself.VFAQ

Way to bring back a thread from 6 years ago.You need to take off the big center bolt. You can use a 1/2" impact gun to take it out. The sprocket then just wiggles off. You shouldn't need a puller or anything.

I have never needed any type of puller to take the crank sprocket off. Take the center bolt off and the crank sprocket should just wiggle right off.

I wouldn't exactly say they are the same cams. DKS cams are not spray welded.

I just got a set from Darren (DKS 264/272). I'm hoping to have the motor put back together next weekend IF a certain vendor gets off their ass and ships my timing parts. :pray: I'll save that rant for when/if they actually decide to respond to me.I'll update this if I remember but from my...

I've had nothing but good experiences buying from the classifieds on here....ebay is a different story. I agree everyone should get with leaving feedback after making a purchase from the classifieds and I'll be sure to do so in the future.On a related note, I think everyone should be leaving...

:beatentodeath:Catch Can Installation

I do this every time... then I grab my cordless impact. LOL

...and let the cyclone bashing begin. :shhh:The 1g intake manifold only outflows the cyclone by a few cfm on top end. On a street driven car I'd take the cyclone (if actuated properly) to increase torque on the low end. Actuating it properly is the key. If you're looking to build a 500 hp...

You'll learn far more by searching and reading than just getting an answer the easy way...but I digress. :banghead:The crank should be fine. Wobbling of that magnitude doesn't even happen with a crankwalked motor.

If you did a search before posting you'd see this is a very common occurrence. That being said, get a new pulley.

...too busy getting ready to shovel the snow! :tease:I used to live in Canton but recently moved to Raleigh, NC. I couldn't get out of Michigan fast enough.

You have a massive vacuum leak or your timing is a tooth off. Do a boost leak test and recheck your timing marks.

Innovate LC-1. They are more accurate than the AEM UEGO. Check out the vendor announcements for deals on them. :thumb:

Eastwood has a couple different kits for restoring auto glass. Most of the time you can get away with just the rhodite and felt polishing pad. For really deep scratches you should go with the kit I linked to.

RhoditeIt's a lot of work but it actually works.

Dude...why are you watching drag queen videos? :hmm: ROFL :tease:

Looks good so far. I did mine almost 7 years ago. Be prepared to polish it on a regular basis. When I lived in Michigan it got very corroded very quickly in the winter from all the road salt.

Just make sure you set your base fuel pressure properly and everything else should automatically compensate for altitude as far as tuning goes.In terms of horsepower numbers, yes altitude has a large effect on what horsepower you put down.

Door Check

It's a standard thread bolt (it's not reverse thread). I've always just turned up the air pressure to my impact and turn the bolt right out. I've never had to hold the crank from turning. Once the bolt is out you just pull the sprocket right off. I've never had to remove the key.