press clutch pedal all the way down and let go. then grab pedal with your hand and pull up, if it pulls up at all, its time for a new pedal assembly

yeah it was a some what a tuning issue, it was the first time i let my cousin drive my car and i was shotgun, aparently he didn't know you can't run a car at 8000 rpm for 12 mins straight... i guess he couldn't here me say, " you gotta let it cool down for awhile"ps closed course street racing...

well if some one can find one for 300 bucks i'll buy it + send them 50 for finding it... money talksfound one, thanks peeps ;)

i'm telling u if someone has one in perfect shape, i have an extra 1990 gst runs and drives that i daily, that i would trade straight up for it

ok I'm wondering where the hell can I buy this from, or if anyone owns on and will sell it

DAM.... do you race it? i do a lot of street racing and i melted 2 valves to the stems @ 23psi with a big 16g...

thanks for the insight guys, i picked up bc272 and matching springs and retainers and fidanza adj cam gears all new in the box for 500, now i just need the valves for the head. I will keep u posted

yup one of the wires could have fallen off or the safc is bad, the maf wire is cut, one in to the safc one coming out

i am going to degree the cam gears, i'd say must since i'm going to have to shave the head and block again. i want to try this build with a hx35 that i have but if i have to i'll get a 35r. ps no e85 in hawaii

i work at a machine shop and we work hand in hand with a tuning shop, i rep his shop when i can so he cuts me mean deals, besides i have never tuned anything in my life and there are just to many variables for me to start trying now when i plan on dumping so much money into this build ...AEM is...

yeah i seen this, however i will be adding a sheet metal intake, 70mm throtle body, turbonetics ex. mani,aem standalone, and cry02 spray, some mods that he did not have or i didn't see on his profile. just want to hit 600 on the dyno(with out cheatin it) i will be DD this car when im done

yeah just head advise please, bc272'z not enough?

so I just melted some ex. valves on my 6 bolt so I tore it apart and now i am looking to build the head...my goal in 600+ whp so i wanted some input on the parts im buying, so far i'm leaning towards, bc 272'z, bc dual springs, fidanza adj cam gears, ferrea valves. should I go with soild...

take it to a machine shop, its worth the 20-40 bucks you'll spend and if they break there tools they get them replaced for free...I've seen many broken bolts with broken easy outs come in to the machine shop my friend owns, save the time,money, and trouble, call your local machine shop

I know there is old post for this but i have a new question, my fuse is blowing every time I put a new one in and turn the car to the on postion. I have blown 13 fuses trying different things but I cant figure it out. when i check the mpi male connectors to the ground one has 12volt the other...

hahahahahaha, dam that was funny, not that the barings was messed up just people saying power steering, power steering, power steering, then boom you put up a pic of gounded down barings

my only experience with these clutches was my nephews turbo type R. He bought this clutch and installed it, pulling out his act clutch because it said stage 4, he broke it in properly and the clutch never would really hold enough to burn out, 3 months later we pulled the trans and found the...

just a heads up, it may not be the master, I changed every line, both slave and master, shimed the ball pulled the trans 6 times put in a longer slave, and come to find out it was the pedals...+ I trashed the trans in the process of driving around trying to figure it out

this might sound off the wall, but have you pulled the clutch to see if you busted the springs off the disk? they might be stuck somewhere in the clutch causing you problems.

good advice Thanx

someone in the classifieds on here is selling a act2900 for 500....thats the way to go

update I put on some 560cc injectors Tube mani, clutch, and someone gave me a safc sooooo..... Im going to tune again, This time on the safc, any suggestions on where to keep the MAFT like put all the settings on 0 and do everything on the SAFC or use both? or what?

just wondering if anyone has tried this turbo on there dsm? I was thinking about puting it on my 1g since I have one just lying around my garage. The problem is that it was on my nephews type r but it did not spool until 5500 rpm. It is a 70ar cold and .68 hot t4 flanged. LMK what you think!

man is it that time of the month people?...LOL

good call dsmkauai ........you got it out the box to bad you not in oahu

ok I fixed it..... pulled trans again... put in 3 titanium washers under pivot ball made a new custom slave 3 times to get the right length.....this was a must bleed and.......boom shifts and holds perfectalso on a side note to make a longer slave to your needs I used a car jack with...

dropped trans again and put on the spring that holds the TOB.....put back together and it work for about 5 mins then stopped working again does any one make a larger master or slave, this is to much of a headache HELP HELP HELP

problem unsolved....... ok so it worked i guess but now it dont the pedal feels spungey and i bled it like a hundred times changed master changed slave a few months back can the slave fail with no leak?and yes this is a new clutch installalso has anyone found another master from a...

i was in the process of installing a new clutch turned out the clutch fork was not in the correct postion ( toward passenger side) so i shimmed the pivot ball

I have a major problem, clutch will not disengauge. This is just a stage 1 clutch from clutch masters please no obivious answers like pedal adj or bleeding i have already fabbed a longer clutch slave bar....will not disengauge I can see the fork and throw out bearing and fork does not appear...

it is the orginal box and someone wrote stealth on the box. the reason they i think they are the same is when i look up those 2 cars the part # are the same with clutch masters, but to make sure i did the same thing with act and sure enough 3000gt 3.0 n/a and 4g63 2.0 Turbo have the same part...

I am looking to buy a clutch masters fx100 from a shop here and the box has stealth writen on it, how ever the part number is the same for a 1990 4g63 T My question is, Is this the write clutch for my car? and are they interchangable :idontknow:

is it possible for a 4g63 to make 600 tq and 400 awhp @44psi

my pressure gets to like 120 and has blown every seal including the crank seal

can i do the same porting on my 1g?

i just put in a old safc in my 1g and i noticed the air % is at zero i just want it to monitor for now till i can get it tuned but i was wondering if that is normal and it will start working once my car heats up and drives around?fixed thank you

i recently notices after i turn off my car the fuel pressure stays at 39psi normally it stays there for 2 hours or so and then goes down. but now it stays there for stays there without going down. its been at 39 psi for 2 days now just sitting in the garage. is this normal? please comment...

is that diagram the same for a 90 ecu and 91? or are they different

i think i found the leak inbetween the booster and the master and driping down the fire wall and on to the a-arm, if that is where it is leaking is it the master or the booster?

i am leaking fluid on the ground at the driver side leak is coming down and driping from the a-arm. I am hopeing its not coming from one of the lines above the a-arm but i have a feeling its coming from the booster or the master. just wanted to know which is a more common leak cause i can tell...

check air temp if can if the air is to hot going in mani can cause knock at that level.

new slave, steel braid lines, titianium slave rod, some of the things i needed for clutch

not really sure i did not worry about any of that i just hooked it up and sprayed for leaks. It will be a lot easier with three people. one watching boost psi, one putting in air, and one spraying for leaks.

when i did mine i just took off the turbo intake and stuck the home depot made tester on and filled it up found the small leaks, fixed and thats it. I had no leaks from anywhere else. your system should hold pressure, thats what its doing when your driving just now your doing it manually. if...

yeah i think you going the wrong way if its comming out the turbo

what o ring? is there a o ring at the bottom seal? if there is im missing it to!! pics of o ring please!!!

ok now there is some excellent points. im convinced i'll go with link you guys are right i dondt want to be tied to the tuner and i think one of the features for the new aem is a tunner lock on the system!!!!! for get that next upgrade will be some bolt ons, ex mani sale at fp 175!! then save...

i think he never seen a maft before but since i've been there so much he got it down ez. but he's a mean tuner on aem. besides saying aem ems is way to much for what i need give me some other reason because with me if i am shelling out 700+ for link and eprom, 1150 is not to far away. is...

i think just the link may put me to 300whp hopefully.... the guy at the shop that i'm going to i super cool the last three times on his dyno and wideband he only charged 20 buck!!! i gave him 40 every time, cause i dont want to be a d***. the thing is he really wants me to get the aem ems. i...

dyno'd today again 265whp 262 tq but this time @22psi