So I have been dealing with this problem for the past few weeks and cannot figure it out. I have a lot of people that are pretty good with cars telling me all of the things that it could be but I can't be too sure with them since they don't know DSM's.To give a little info: I have a 90 1g...

Yes I do. That is very helpful i did not know I had to re time it. Thank you very much:thumb:, from what i have looked at with your diagram and the link you posted this is the way to retime it? I am not clear on how exactly to fix the problem with some of this info since it seems to be a way to...

I have checked to coil pack and made sure everything is in tight. The wires i have are about a year old and they are the NGK's. The timing should be fine but that is one thing i have not checked. However if it was a timing problem i would think it would run roughly all of the time. It is a...

I had to soder the wires because i bought it used from a guy how posted it on this site and he sent it in the box and when i got it and pulled it out of th box the wires were hanging by a thread right at the sensor and they broke off. So i had to separate them and i told the guy who sold it to...

I have checked for boost leaks, as well as the wires, and all. When i say that runs rough it seems to be that there is an ignition problem with the car but all of the obvious little things that i can think of such as boost leaks or the spark plugs and wires. It is something that is setting off...

Well from what i can tell it is throwing code 23 once again. It has all the same symptoms as it did before i changed the CAS. I can't figure out what else would cause it to throw that code. and why it runs fine when cold but once i warm it up then shut it down it will run rough when warmed up.

I have a 90 1g fwd and for the past few weeks I have been trying to figure out why the car has been running rough and the check engine came on. I used an analog voltmeter to figure out the code and came out with 23. According to manuals that means it is the Cam Angle Sensor. I bought one from a...

How do i replace that sensor? Is it an easy process? Also does anyone know any links that i could look up that would help me replace this sensor. I believe it is just the sensor because when i unhook the battery then connect it back the car runs normally. Thank you for the help :thumb:

I disconnected my battery and left it for about 5 min and then reconnected then the check engine light went away and the car ran fine. I thought i may have fixed the problem but it turns out after a few drives it came back on and the engine began to run roughly. So i bought an analog voltmeter...

Hello, I have a 90 1g and today the engine began to run very rough at the low rpms. It was driving just fine then i stopped got some food and when i started the engine it was running rough and the check engine light came on. When I drive it at low rpms the engine is rough but at high rpms it...

Ok great thank you so much, i adjusted the bov and its just snug on the top of it and flutters at low boost say if i shift at 3000 but when i get into higher boost there is the normal release. as long as i am not hurting my turbo everything is good:thumb:

I have a 1g and i just put in my new ic pipes and i had to get a greddy bov for the flange. I only get the flutter at lower rpms. and i am not sure what to do. the lower nipple i have just open and i don't know if i should plug it or what. Any help would be appreciated.

cool well that is a lot of help. sounds like the copper anti sieze would probably be the best bet. if not i know i have some regular anti sieze laying around and that would work too but i might make the trip to go get the copper stuff. but even if its not fully necessary to use it. sounds like...

from what i have understood is that using anti sieze is proper form really. not fully necessary but cannot hurt anything. and also i will need to put anti sieze on the bolts as well?

hey i recently posted a thread about how i had two studs that broke off in the head. lucky me i was able to get them out :thumb: thanks to some help. i decided to get a new stud kit from FP and now i have been debating if i shoud use anti sieze or lock tight for the new studs? i have searched...

well i may need a few. but in all honesty taking off the head and to a shop is just about one of the last things that i want to do. that will be way to much money and i am just a student that is about to go up to college. so i need to save some money. but the stud doesnt't appear to be to deep...

oh that is a pain id imagine. how will i do that? do i just need to get the turbo loose? if so how? and then when i do get the turbo loose and hopfully i can slide off the mani. will i just need to add some PB buster to the bolt on the turbo then get some pliers and take it off? i already have 4...

ok so i got a 1g plymouth laser. i am swapping the exhust mani for a 2g. but i have run into some problems. i broke 2 studs on the right side of the manifold. i circled them in green. i need some advice on how i can get those studs out. i really dont wanna make this any worse. i broke two that...

actually no i have not tried to tighten that banjo bolt yet. i just figure that it will be better off with just a new set of washers. its a very small leak but an oil deprived turbo is a great way to ruin one.

thanks alot man. that should solve my leak

I have a 1g. and its the plymouth laser fwd and i have the stock 14b turbo in it and i noticed that the oil feed lines are leaking and they appear to be leaking where the washers are. now i have been looking around the forums and could not find what the size`of these washers is. according to...

ok cool. yea it is just that black nipple looking piece that the screw goes into. so if i loosin that screw i think i can just pull that piece off. becaue the bolt looking thing that is on right or what the nipple is attatched to does not move at all. i tried to get a wrench on it but it didnt...

it isnt leaking from the screw but the area that i circled with red. right in that area. what the screw goes into is like a nipple looking deal. but right were that nipple meets that metal bolt looking deal. it leaks right there. so i am not sure if i just took that screw out if it would take...

so do i have to pull off my oil filter housing completely or do i just unscrew that one screw and pull that piece of and then put some of the sealant on it?

I have a 90 laser and i have had a drippring oil leak and it was not terrible but i did take a picture from a previous forum and then i circled in red where my oil leak is. now i also put a yellow arrow that points at the screw i tried to tighten just a little bit. it has done nothing, Can i fix...

ok sounds like this will be sorta a big job for a little part but it shoud fix my problem. I am tyring to keep this baby running for awhile. Should i get some oil dye just to check for any other possible places? If i have to remove my timing cover and all it would probably be a good to time to...

I have a 90 plymouth laser, it has an oil leak that drips on the diver side and has a made a mess all down the right side of my engine. My theory is that it is from the camshaft seals. How can i confirm this? it is very difficult to clean this area with all the belts and such around it. I...

I also have an oil leak on the same side and if i leave the car idling for a while it will continue to drip and leave a small puddle of oil. I can tell it is coming from the top becasue the oil goes pretty high up. I took off my cam gear cover and looked around the camshaft seals and sure...

i got a 90 laser and it has about 130k on it, its the 2wd turbo. Some days if i say drive it for like 30 min then i go into the store or something and come back like 15 min later when i try to start it the car cranks and turns like normal but when the engine starts going it is really rough like...

ok so like i took another look at it the other night and there does appear to be some oil around the camshaft seals. If i have to remove my valve cover that is fine i can do that, but if i do replace those seals do i need to remove my timing belt? Or can i just remove 1 cam gear at a time and...

yea i have called AutoZone, Napa, Advanced, all of those first places you think of however none of them carry anything for a turbo. is there anywhere else that i could look Most of them hardly have gaskets for my camshafts, the turbo is only a small part of the leak so i know there is something...

so i got an oil leak in my 90 plymouth laser, it drips on the drivers side of the car. if i leave the car idling it will just continue to slowly drip. I recently changed my valve cover gasket, but that was just a very small part of the leak. I know that the leak has to be coming from the top...

i got a 1g dsm. if i remove my bcs restrictor are there really any risks?

is everthing the same for the 1g dsm's too? i got a laser and i been meaning to take that restrictor out